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I am installing a set of side pipe headers but they stick down at an angle when tightened up and if you pull them up to try to line them up correctly they hit the frame of the car. So what should I do next? You can't really see it in this picture but it is about an inch down from where it should be.
If they are down at the rear, check that the alignment of the driveshaft is correct. It may be you need to raise the rear of the trans- which will bring up the rear of the headers too.
And I would suggest a fat coating of anti-seize on the ID of the pipes so they will remain removable.
So my transmission is unbolted right now cause I'm doing a clutch replacement. When I first bolted them on they were sticking down at an extreme angle so I figured the engine was lower than it would be when the trans is in. so I jacked up the jack I had put in to support the engine and it helped, but in the picture you see the engine is jacked up in the back to the point that the header hits the frame so I cant go any higher.
They came with car when I bought it so they are not new, but they didn't appear to ever be use on a car. Like when I look in them they don't have any carbon or anything like that in them and they look like Doug's or hooker headers to me but I don't really know a way to tell for sure what brand they are
I wondered if I could be motor mounts but how could I tell if they are different than stock also I probably will just wait till the trans is in but I was just wondering what you guys though
My side pipes didn't fit either take a look at what they shipped to me in Aus, luckily only painted. Hint! The mounting brackets. Both for the same side
I had a fit issue with OBX stainless side pipe headers. Passenger side was way to close to the frame but drivers side was perfect. I took a lot of flak on this forum with my solution but if it helps you I am going to share again. I made a simple wooden fixture, it is a two part setup and is bolted together. Here it is with the header installed. The lower cradle can be unbolted and moved to the new location that I needed the header to be in. I cut the pipes moved the cradle to its new location and bolted it up. Here it is with some sleeves installed ready to weld. And here is the finished article. It fits perfectly I can now install both rocker trims without having to cut anything. My friend owns a 77 and he to bought OBX side pipes and had the same clearance issue, my guess is bad tooling but I cannot say for sure. The repair is not visible unless you lie down to look. Hope this is off some use to you. Good Luck
Until you get the tranny back in you really don't know where the final position will be. You may be trying to solve a problem you don't have. I agree with TimAT on the anti-seize. You'll be glad you did.
Thanks for the replys guys I will put the trans in and see what I have and I will post what I find out. Don't know how long it will be before I get a chance to install it but we'll see
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You use chains, floor jack, and a Port-A-Power to bend them into shape. Common problem and process with side pipes. See and read my entire post with photos here:
Do you think it would work if I put a piece of wood in between the headers and an the frame and Jack up on the collector? It doesn't need to move much and did the headers have to get heated up to bend them?
Do you think it would work if I put a piece of wood in between the headers and an the frame and Jack up on the collector? It doesn't need to move much and did the headers have to get heated up to bend them?
I just connected my sidepipe all up and pulled them into position to bolt up using the pipes as leverage to do so.
I've had Hookers and two sets of Doug's. All three had similar fit problems with two sets of engine and transmission mounts. The left side pointed up and inward while the right side pointed down and outward. The left side took some massaging to clear the frame. What finally worked for me was to buy new 12" collectors, cut off the originals and have the new ones tack welded back to the headers while everything was mounted on the car including the side pipes. This got the angles correct. We then removed the headers and finished welding them followed by Jet Hot coating. They are now a breeze to remove if needed. The hard part was finding someone with experience building headers that would not hack it up.
Just FYI......69 Off-road exhaust package included a spacer under the trans mount......not sure why this is but I know if you do not use it they hang down in the rear.....