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The first troubleshooting tool you need is a manifold gauge set. With that you will be able to determine the cause or causes of the malfunction. Before buying the manifold gauge set, you will need to find out if it has been converted to r134A or if it still uses R12 refrigerant.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by m.chisholm
What are the steps to determine what components are causing the "no cooling" condition? The AC blows air, but not cool at all.?
MC
There are some basic steps you can perform without the gauge manifold to do some troubleshooting. Basic troubleshooting is irrelevant of year or the type of freon in the system:
Turn the A/C "on" and see if the compressor clutch engages and turns. If the clutch does not engage, the system is either low on freon, or you have an electrical problem preventing the clutch from being energized. Some year systems used a low pressure "fuse" in the engine compartment - this fuse would blow when the low side pressure got too low, preventing the compressor from engaging without freon in the system. If there is no power to the clutch, check this fuse (if equipped). If the fuse is blown, you have a freon leak that must be fixed prior to replacing the fuse.
You can briefly depress one of the line schrader valves to see if there is freon pressure in the system. If there is no pressure, you likely have a leak. You can pressurize the system with shop air to find the leak and repair it (using soapy water at all connections and components to find the leak). Once the leak is found, the system will need to be thoroughly pumped down with a vacuum pump to remove all air and moisture from the system. You will need a gauge manifold set to pressurize the system and to evacuate it.
If the compressor engages, the discharge line going from the compressor to the condenser should be hot. The line going from the condenser to the expansion valve (or orifice) should be very warm. All lines from the expansion valve (or orifice) back to the compressor should be very cold. Touch the lines to verify these conditions.
If the lines at any point between the condenser and the expansion valve are cold, the component on the condenser-side of the line being cold has a restriction in it. It is very common for the receiver-drier to be partially plugged, and it will act as an expansion valve. Both sides of the receiver-drier should be the same temperature (very warm).
To fix anything, you will need a gauge manifold and a vacuum pump. The pressures you observe on the gauge manifold will further assist in troubleshooting: High side pressure should be in the 180-220 range, and low side should be in the high-20's to mid-30's range for most applications (these pressures will vary with heat load on the system, but are a general ballpark range).
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Catnip
On my '77 that will soon be converted to 134a, Will I need to replace to condenser / dryer or both. I have a new compressor to install as well.
Thanks
There is no need to replace the condenser when changing to 134 - it has adequate capacity. Heat load requirements do not change with a change in refrigerant type.
Lars
There is no need to replace the condenser when changing to 134 - it has adequate capacity. Heat load requirements do not change with a change in refrigerant type.
Lars
There is no need to replace the condenser when changing to 134 - it has adequate capacity. Heat load requirements do not change with a change in refrigerant type.
Lars
It is good practice to flush the system of oil though.......R12 mineral oil and PAG46 are not all that friendly with each other and their corresponding refrigerants....
Mind you that R134 is about 20-25% less efficient as well so if your system is not as cold.....that would be a big reason why....