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dont listen to Bubba the weekend racer and throw a 5000 rpm stall behind a motor that peaks at 5500.. Keep it reasonable if you drive on the street regularly.. a loose sloppy converter produces a lot of heat and is no fun in traffic.. An auxiary trans cooler is a good idea too. Besides, you will never have traction to launch at high rpm with street tires
dont listen to Bubba the weekend racer and throw a 5000 rpm stall behind a motor that peaks at 5500.. Keep it reasonable if you drive on the street regularly.. a loose sloppy converter produces a lot of heat and is no fun in traffic.. An auxiary trans cooler is a good idea too. Besides, you will never have traction to launch at high rpm with street tires
Thinking about a 2200 just want to make sure it's a good choice .Not looking to race it just street driving and maybe a red light to red light race when mustang guy comes along
Mine is a 9 inch 2800 Stahl. FTI built it for my car, I told them I didn't want a real loose convertor with a bunch of slip, and they delivered in spades! I would recomended picking a manufacturer and let them tell you what works best for you.don't buy a cheap convertor. Now the next issue, traction, I have drag radials and it hooks like I'm in a car wash unless I have some heat in the tires. Just something to consider.
Its nice that all these posters responded, but unless they have the exact same set-up as yours, their data is meaningless. I will not give you my specs because it would be meaningless also.
None of the posters have your engine with a specific power band, have same cam as you. same transmission, same rear axle ratio or same tire diameters. A new torque convertor has to work with your specific details.
Call a couple torque convertor places and give them your specs.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 21, 2019 at 06:25 PM.
Its nice that all these posters responded, but unless they have the exact same set-up as yours, their data is meaningless. I will not give you my specs because it would be meaningless also.
None of the posters have your engine with a specific power band, have same cam as you. same transmission, same rear axle ratio or same tire diameters. A new torque convertor has to work with your specific details.
Call a couple torque convertor places and give them your specs.
I thought I recommended that or didn't I ? I did give my application purely so people would understand the types of things you could look for and potential other issues.
when you buy a TC you get what you pay for. Highly efficient TC's are what you want. they don't slip up to stall speed unless you are applying WOT. Buy a quality 9.5 inch and it is probably the last TC you will ever have to buy. I've ripped the guts out of crap like TCI and B&M. 3500 stall for your amount of 383 TQ is a good starting point for lockup applications.
I have the stock converter (2100 ) in my 75 vette with 3.70 gears and a blueprint 383 (435 hp/459tq. Blueprint stated that it should have a 2000 thru 2400 converter.
I'm looking to go with the 2400 converter
As for one torque converter company over another it really depends on the use of such I guess. Good luck to the poster, just so you know I chose TCI after talking with my transmission builder for my overhauled TH400 and a TCI rep.
I'll see what happens.
Cheap TCs create lots of heat as the stall ratings go up. I had a B&M Saturday night special and driving around it was always running around at 3000 rpm it D. Unless you went faster.
Later I tried A TCI, I had it sawn in half to see what failed. The cheap aluminum stator wheel broke in the inner splines. It was not made to be able to change rpm extremely fast behind a 355 ci
TCI sold really faulty 700r4 transmissions and they would repair them under warranty and just fail again. I just learned the hard way to stay away from them
I've owned up to 6500 stall quality units and you can drive them around even at slow speeds
No matter what converter you go with you should install a good transmission cooler. An overheated transmission and converter will fail no matter what brand it is. Link is to a minimal sized cooler.
I like a 2400 converter for a 700r4 as the low first gear already provides plenty of torque multiplication...and you have a relatively low gear, this is important.......anymore slip is wasted energy.
As far as quality is concerned......The Street B&M and TCI is fine without slicks and hard launches........anything approaching lifting the wheels will require a $1000 converter to last.....they are just flat out made better.
You have two sets of fans set to hydraulically oppose each other.....just think of the amount of force a converter has to withstand to launch a 3500 lb. car from a dead stop........and then think of the amount of heat generated in such a short amount of time from the slip........
Either way.....as big of a trans cooler as you can run is the order of the day.