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Which one would be best suited for a mildly built SB350 with holley 750, aggressive comp cam flat tappet, 63cc chevy camel bump heads, long tube headers and sidepipes with vettepack inserts & 2400 stall.
I got the Torker 1 on there now, just wondering if I stand to gain anything in the bottom end/off the line performance if I change to either of the intake I mentioned. Clearance wont be an issue since I'm getting a high rise L88 hood so i'll probably add a carb spacer as well.
Right now the car really goes at higher rpm but id like a bit more oomph off the line. I'm not sure if its lack of bottom end or the fact that I got some super sticky 295 falken tires on the back but its fairly hard to break the rear tires loose by going WOT from a stop or even just burying the pedal when making a right turn.
I did take it back to the shop after getting the vettepack inserts so the carb could be re-jetted and the timing adjusted etc. I haven't done any professional tune to the car.
Even before the inserts, the car went back once to adjust the timing and it ran a lot better than when I first got it from the shop. But it still doesn't feel as fast off the line.
You must have missed the heated exchange of the great Intake Debate last week.
I read a bunch of the intake comparison threads lol. I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of it, nor do I care if I lose a few hp on the top end since I'm not going to drive it super fast either.
Id like to gain some low end power and from the threads I read, it seems the Air Gap, Weiand and Team G are the more popular ones. I don't think my 350 is the HO version so I'm not sure if the ZZ4 intake would work.
no mention of what rear gear you have /stock 3.08? you can get better take of with a 3.70/4.10 gear set if you want to go fast, but not on the inter state
Also ... the Vast majority of so-called "tuners" you hear about guys taking their cars to ... those cars have computers controlling ignition & fuel ...
... and those tuners are re-programming the cars' computers. That's fine Today, because Vast majority of cars today have Neither carb or distributor.
Far, far fewer mechanics today have much, if any, experience working with carbs and distributors. Makes sense; most would starve if they relied on carbs/dist.
no mention of what rear gear you have /stock 3.08? you can get better take of with a 3.70/4.10 gear set if you want to go fast, but not on the inter state
No clue what gears are in there. The console plate says 4.11 but that could've been put there randomly. Is there anywhere on the rear end parts that would have a stamping indicating what gears it left the factory with?
Also ... the Vast majority of so-called "tuners" you hear about guys taking their cars to ... those cars have computers controlling ignition & fuel ...
... and those tuners are re-programming the cars' computers. That's fine Today, because Vast majority of cars today have Neither carb or distributor.
Far, far fewer mechanics today have much, if any, experience working with carbs and distributors. Makes sense; most would starve if they relied on carbs/dist.
yeah I know what you mean, I took my bmw in for tuning and they use all sorts of high tech gizmos. There are barely any reputable shops in my area that work on old school cars or old motors. I did locate a couple whom I've contacted in regards to tuning, still waiting to hear back.
BC's a large province and Vancouver's a large city ... all with somewhat temperate climate ... supposing there's a fair-size motor racing community.
Perhaps you find out who are the auto machine shops who are preferred by racers. Perhaps ask those shops if they can recommend any pros ...
... pros who BOTH have a SUN distributor machione (or similar) ... AND, of course, are Experienced setting-up race car distributors ... and who're taking in work.
You have a bunch of things against you in the engine. Your cam is actually very mild. 219/229 is actually less intake duration than the L82 cam of 222/222. You have similar lift, but Comp cams ground yours with 110 lc and opened the intakes earlier. It causes intake reversion and a lumpier idle making people think that it is something.
Double hump heads even with lots of work done just don't have the flow or correct chambers. Side pipes are not a tuned system. The torque manifold is not a tuned runner intake. But out of the manifold choices 8501 is the best
Changing manifolds might not even make a seat of the pants difference.
Money would be better spent on a bigger duration h roller cam
I agree with derek - a good dual plane is what would probably serve you best. The 7501 can work, but might even be overkill (my opinion). I would save the single planes for high-revving engines or large-cubic-inch strokers - a 350 with a mild-to-moderate cam should probably have something like an edelbrock or weiand dual plane - that should give you some improvement in how it feels off the line.
I agree that a good distributor curve can help a lot too.
You could bolt on a dual plane intake and it could help you at low RPM, but no way will it be satisfying. If I was in your shoes, I would find a ZZ4 take-off manifold, tune the ignition curve then tune the carb.
Bolt-on always seems like an easy solution but without the recalibration, the results will disappoint you.
I started out with a brand new 79 L82. Th350 and 3.55 rear end. Very lack luster in the performance realm. the first thing that I did was to remove all emission items and install headman headers and true dual exhausts with high flow mufflers. the next step was 64 cc quality heads and a Crane cam, 1.6 roller rockers, and hi-intensity lifters. https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...3801/overview/ This turned it into a 7000 rpm motor that was finally kind of fun. I hurt the tranny and replaced it with a tire chirping stage 3 or 4 TH350 with a 3000 stall. Lots of broken parts followed. It's final build was a blue printed 355 for flat top pistons 200 cc Dart heads with 2.55/1.6 valves and a weiand single plane, solid cam. rev limiter set to 7200 rpm and a very consistent 1/4 mile drag racing machine.
After wasting all that money on baby steps I jumped up to a 383 solid roller motor. roller cams just make a motor run so much better. You can really jump up in duration and still have more vacuum and drivability over it's smaller duration H-flat cam counter parts.