When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, I'm ready to pull the engine out of my C3. I've got a 2 ton hoist, I know about the pull from the side trick, and have a leveler. I'm going to buy bolts later today, I don't want to use a pull plate on the manifold. I know I bolt the chains to the heads, but where exactly?
should be a bracket bolted to the intake on the left side front and one on the right-side rear head. if not just use 3/8 bolts and large washers under the heads,
Ok, I'm ready to pull the engine out of my C3. I've got a 2 ton hoist, I know about the pull from the side trick, and have a leveler. I'm going to buy bolts later today, I don't want to use a pull plate on the manifold. I know I bolt the chains to the heads, but where exactly?
I prefer to pull from the accessory bolt holes on the front and rear of the engine if possible, not all heads have all the holes drilled though. If they dont the use the intake manifold bolt holes.
It doesn't have to be fancy, just bolt the chain to opposing accessory holes in the heads. Make sure you use backup washers and have ample thread engagement.
I agree. All the weight, hundreds of pounds, is placed not on the bolts shank, but rather on the bolts threads if you use the plate. And you are testing the threads in the soft aluminum intake too. Those holes and threads are designed to hold down a three pound carb.
Placing the strain on the bolt shank and stressing the bolts sideways is mucho safero. Right into the cyl head. Grade 8.
Bolting to an aluminum manifold just scared me too much, I couldn't make myself do it.
I have loaded and unloaded 700 lb. 540-632 big blocks and big chiefs with carb plates.....it is fine and millions have been doing it for years.....it wouldn’t exist if it was dangerous.....
But you may do what you like.....
Can anyone point to a documented internet case of a carb plate failing on a small block.
It's worked great for me for the engine only. The engine balances really nicely on it. Could even pull the engine in a few Chevy's without removing the hood. I've always used stud kits for the carb bolts so the thread engagement has never been a concern for me.
Can anyone point to a documented internet case of a carb plate failing on a small block.
It's worked great for me for the engine only. The engine balances really nicely on it. Could even pull the engine in a few Chevy's without removing the hood. I've always used stud kits for the carb bolts so the thread engagement has never been a concern for me.
Never. Even iron head big blocks have no issue. I get what people say, it look flimsy as hell....but it works. I do not recommend it with a transmission though....but you would never be able to wrestle an engine with a trans with that as a pivot point anyhoo.
An old saying is: A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. You could have a rated 5,000 lb logging chain, but one link is only good for 100 lbs.
The entire chain is now rated at 100 lbs regardless.
Note the photos in post 5 & 6. The use of four chains places 25% of the load at each corner. Stronger / safer than a carb plate. Unfortunately, still only a single chain to the hoist. Which is rated at 5,000 lb. Or is it? H-m-m-m-m-m-m-m-m-
Tensile strength of a single 1/4-20 grade 5 bolt is a little over 1 ton so 4 is well over 4 tons...... Once again, if the plates are so unsafe then there must be people posting about failures. Where are these posts?
A small block and automatic don't hang that badly from a carb plate.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You guys really over-think this and make it complicated... pulling and installing an engine isn't exactly rocket science... Keep in mind that none of the early small blocks had accessory bolt holes in the cylinder heads, and you don't ever want to pull more parts off an engine than you need to if time is of any value to you. Also, keep in mind that a Grade 8 3/8 coarse thread bolt has a proof load rating of 9300 lbs (with a clamp load rating of 6975 lbs). Each.
So just pull out 2 intake manifold bolts kitty-corner to each other, and attach a chain using 2 Grade 8 bolts with washers. Don't bother removing the carb, accessories, or any of that time-wasting stuff. Here is an engine I removed and replaced a few hours ago - done hundreds of these for 45 years this way - no problem:
Chain attached. Bellhousing bolts removed, exhaust dropped, engine mount bolts pulled, hoses & electrical disconnected. Don't bother pulling the radiator, removing the carb, distributor, or any of that stuff - no need to:
New engine chained up same way. All accessories mounted on the engine, including PS pump, alternator, carb, fuel pump, lines, etc:
Line it up, drop it down:
Give it a push back to mate to the tranny:
Done. Disconnected and ready for simple chain removal - re-install the 2 intake bolts and torque. Did the install in my white dress shorts wearing flip-flops in 15 minutes. My beer almost got warm:
Tensile strength of a single 1/4-20 grade 5 bolt is a little over 1 ton so 4 is well over 4 tons...... Once again, if the plates are so unsafe then there must be people posting about failures. Where are these posts?
It's a bit more complex than you just posited. It's the threaded path in aluminum that resists pulling out. A steel bolt will stretch under load with the result that only part of the threaded aluminum portion is resisting the weight of the motor. Failure would be the entire threaded area "zippering" its way out. It probably takes way more than the weight of the motor for that to happen, but ...
... my prerogative is: I ain't gonna do it. And a cursory search gave me this (Post #6)
Where to bolt engine hoist chains
