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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 09:37 PM
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Default Air conditioning clutch

The A/C clutch has finally packed it in on my '79. The plan is to replace the clutch without opening the system. My research shows that the clutch hub and compressor can each have metric or standard threads. If I understand this correctly, this potentially requires 2 sets of remover and installers. How can I tell if my compressor, clutch, and replacement clutch have standard or metric threads to save me buying the removal and installation tools twice?
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 09:50 PM
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Just check to see if a 1/4" bolt or a 6mm bolt fits the puller holes.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:55 PM
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What do you mean by 'puller holes'? As I understand it, the crankshaft of the compressor has a female thread to facilitate the installer, and the hub of the clutch has a (larger) female thread to facilitate the puller. Both threads are a lot larger that 6mm or 1/4".
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:30 PM
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Most auto parts stores will rent you the puller tool for the R4 compressor clutch.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by speedreed8
Most auto parts stores will rent you the puller tool for the R4 compressor clutch.
Not around here. I checked. I'm going to have to buy the tools. I just want to make sure I get the right ones the first time.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 10:44 AM
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Still running r12?
if not maybe less hassle to change out compressor if you have vacuum pump..and maybe even cheaper in long run..
r12 not so much, and if sure clutch is the only issue and rest performing excellent then yup..tool time.
may e ebay? Someone else may one time use and sell..
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 03:08 PM
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Use Google to investigate the process for replacing that clutch. A video of that process will show you where a "puller" may be needed and how that puller is attached to the clutch. If you need to do so, get some sample bolts from a hardware store in English and Metric sizes so that you can see which will properly fit into the threaded puller holes. THEN you can order the proper puller from Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, or online (eBay, etc). You won't lose any refrigerant with that repair, as long as you don't go deeper into the compressor. If you need to change out the front compressor bearing, etc, THEN you will need a pump-down and system recharge.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
Still running r12?
if not maybe less hassle to change out compressor if you have vacuum pump..and maybe even cheaper in long run..
r12 not so much, and if sure clutch is the only issue and rest performing excellent then yup..tool time.
may e ebay? Someone else may one time use and sell..
The system works perfectly and is fully charged. Only problem is a clutch that won't engage. My choice is to spend a couple of thousand dollars 'upgrading' to R134 or a couple of hundred bucks replacing the clutch. Sounds like a no-brainer to me. I'm still hoping someone has a way to determine which puller and installer I will need.

7T1 Vette: The threads are about an inch in diameter. I don't think I am going to be able to find a bolt in that size, and If I did there is no guarantee that the hub or the compressor use a standard metric or SAE thread pitch.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by drwet
The system works perfectly and is fully charged. Only problem is a clutch that won't engage. My choice is to spend a couple of thousand dollars 'upgrading' to R134 or a couple of hundred bucks replacing the clutch. Sounds like a no-brainer to me. I'm still hoping someone has a way to determine which puller and installer I will need.

7T1 Vette: The threads are about an inch in diameter. I don't think I am going to be able to find a bolt in that size, and If I did there is no guarantee that the hub or the compressor use a standard metric or SAE thread pitch.
Yes i agree that is why i asked about r12..

assuming you have r4 compressor
this is what was suggested earlier

https://www.google.com/search?q=repl...iw=768&bih=954

i just replaced compressor dryer and orifice and stayed r12 and was 250 bucks total r12 another 100. That is why i said r134 is so cheap it may be a better option...and the new compressor comes with clutch

Last edited by interpon; Aug 5, 2019 at 07:21 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 01:08 PM
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Before you buy bolts or multiple tool sets, buy a thread pitch Gage for inch and metric, then buy a dial caliper.
Find the thread pitch with the Gage. That will tell you if it is inch or metric.
If you are still not certain. Measue the bore with the caliper, then check what the minor diameter is supposed to be in a machists handbook or online.
Granted, the last time I saw an r4 compressor was 30 years ago, but I would think it is inch.
Good luck.
Jeff
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by drwet
The system works perfectly and is fully charged. Only problem is a clutch that won't engage. My choice is to spend a couple of thousand dollars 'upgrading' to R134 or a couple of hundred bucks replacing the clutch. Sounds like a no-brainer to me. I'm still hoping someone has a way to determine which puller and installer I will need.

7T1 Vette: The threads are about an inch in diameter. I don't think I am going to be able to find a bolt in that size, and If I did there is no guarantee that the hub or the compressor use a standard metric or SAE thread pitch.
May be a dumb question but did you hit the clutch with 12v to verify the magnet is dead?

Jebby
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 03:46 PM
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Just looked up an A/C clutch for r4 compressor in 79 corvette made by 4 seasons
and it said metric thread. The clutch I replaced on my 76 with the a6 compressor was metric also puller / installer was $25.00 and worked perfect from autozone.
good luck.
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 12:45 AM
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All interesting and important fill & some theory -- but, back to the OP's original posting, does anyone know where to source a replacement A/C clutch??
The Sanden website that someone provided does not have "Corvette" applications in its drop-down options.
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