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Used pioneer fasteners a lot many yrs ago ,ncie step up from stock without the ARP price.
Is ARP better, sure. I just dont see the need to pay stupid money for basic fasteners.
the summit link is good
Barnett GA has them too
if you really wanted some
no, RA's out
Summit shows 10/9/19 for ship.....that with RA being out it not a good sign.....means they haven’t made any in a while. Barnett probably has old stock.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
As far as a rotating assembly kit goes I'm sure there are some good usable rotating assembly kits available. But I do know they are a many times a just a re-box rip-off. You really have to know what the correct parts are that you want first of all then you can compare with what is supplied in the kit. To many cheesy vendors that just want to stuff cheap parts in a box and sent it mail order out of state once they have your $$$. Just an example a co-worker got a full rotating stroker assembly for his 6 cyl GNX that came with no name Chinese rods and no name bolts. Had to run a reduced circle cam also but no warning was provided. But he thought and paid for a top of the line parts kit.
Last edited by cardo0; Sep 1, 2019 at 08:06 PM.
Reason: Stupid auto correct!
Summit shows 10/9/19 for ship.....that with RA being out it not a good sign.....means they haven’t made any in a while. Barnett probably has old stock.
Jebby
I don't KNOW what that means any more than the next guy does ... maybe it means those bolts are popular? ... maybe a local auto machine shop or parts house has them?
I'm trying to offer a helpful tip ... Clearly you don't want them, I can only imagine why you persist ... but I'm not gonna argue with you about this. Done.
gkull how did your car act going to a smaller head? what cam did you run back then?
Lots of advertisers selling kits or engines, if you read their fine print will say something like "parts can be substituted to xxx at will". Meaning youll get cheap crap and an excuse. not always but too often.
It's the total build......Not just head CC that determines how a motor runs. I had 200's and then race ported 230's on a 355. So I didn't want to over do a 383 and I started with 227 cc with the bigger valve options. AFR 210 cc are a good size for a 383 or my later 396
Do you think the 750 will really kill the bottom end?
IT won't kill it. And it's only at low speed.depending on what else you have it may not matter at all.
My car has a 2800 Stahl convertor I run a 750 double pumper a 650 would do nothing for throttle response.
When you really want to get going do you give it part throttle or do you nail it?
IT won't kill it. And it's only at low speed.depending on what else you have it may not matter at all.
My car has a 2800 Stahl convertor I run a 750 double pumper a 650 would do nothing for throttle response.
When you really want to get going do you give it part throttle or do you nail it?
It has decent throttle response I don’t have to stomp it to get it going but it is a little slow from the get go if I don’t push the pedal a decent amount.
I don't KNOW what that means any more than the next guy does ... maybe it means those bolts are popular? ... maybe a local auto machine shop or parts house has them?
I'm trying to offer a helpful tip ... Clearly you don't want them, I can only imagine why you persist ... but I'm not gonna argue with you about this. Done.
You seem to be the only one that wants to argue....chill out. And I said maybe Barnett has old stock.....simply pointing it out.
Do you think the 750 will really kill the bottom end?
What I mean is you dont need a 750 for your 350..
GM used Different carbs with what seemingly high cfm ratings..didnt mean the car actually needed or used that much it just saved them money as a truck, caddy or sports car may all use a similar carb just different calibrations.
Ex a 750 can feed my solid roller 383 just fine but farther upstairs there is a very slight difference between that and the 850 I have on. Practical no but I want that last tiny bit. doesnt mean I tell people you need one that big, you dont.
GM used Different carbs with what seemingly high cfm ratings..didnt mean the car actually needed or used that much it just saved them money as a truck, caddy or sports car may all use a similar carb just different calibrations.
Ex a 750 can feed my solid roller 383 just fine but farther upstairs there is a very slight difference between that and the 850 I have on. Practical no but I want that last tiny bit. doesnt mean I tell people you need one that big, you dont.
I guess the 750 carb and the IK200 heads will come in handy when I decide to get a 383 or 396 stroker kit down the road.
theres a lot of factors to consider with carb choice. Theres a lot of debate on this as well. My research told me a holly 670 would be the best choice for my 355. a larger carb would offer better WOT at the expense of throttle response and proper afr at other rpm ranges
So finally got the car back a couple days ago and I am thoroughly impressed with the power gains. It worked out pretty good in the sense that in low speeds the throttle still feels a little heavy so the car doesn’t leap forward at the slightest tap, it is fairly tame. But when I stomp the pedal or at wot it’s actially slightly scary now. The car has no problem going sideways. It’ll even spin the huge rear tires without having to go wot. But where the car really shines is mid to high rpm. Highway driving is a blast compared to before, it feels like a whole new car! Unfortunately now we have nothing but rain in the forecast for the next week so I’ll have to wait to enjoy. Plus the L88 hood looks awesome!! Here are some pics. And I’d also like to thank everyone who participated in this thread, tremendous help!
