The high pressure outlet is 16mm x 1.5, same as the return of the Borgeson., but the Volvo one is deeper.

The return line is plastic barb that fit a 3/8" hose.

 

Interesting timing. I also did this, about 5 months ago, using an Astra pump, and I've been absolutely stoked with the results... Until I took it to a hillclimb on the weekend. We haven't had any competition events for months due to the 'rona, and it turns out that I had power assistance cutting in and out when I warked hard at the wheel. Very offputting! I can't recreate it on the street, even swerving hard, at all, just can't recreate the load of race driving, which in this case is similar to autocross use - relatively low speed and tight course with lots of changes in direction. I'll keep you posted as to how I go with troubleshooting and hopefully fixing it.
​​​

 

 

Will be interested to see how that goes Andrew.
I am interested in doing the mod but cant work out where to put the pump.
The Volvo pump seems available here like the astra one but not sure which one is more compact.
Where did you mount yours. ?
Also need to upgrade Alternator before adding even more load.

 

Course racing definitely tests the limit of pumps. Sorry, no info on the Astra pump. I don't believe that that the Volvo pump will much different for racing, in default mode. I think we need to figure out the canbus on the Volvo pump and tie it to lateral acceleration or some other factors, to really see what it can do on a race course. Maybe we should look at some Volvo racing sites, where the CANBUS is active, to see if the pump holds up under racing conditions.

 

Hi.
Could this be caused by overheated steering fluid ? Some cars have a steering fluid cooler installed.
Rgds. Günther

 

If you notice my install, I looped the steel high pressure hose a few times, in the air path, to get some cooling out of it.

 

Thought I'd bump this since the subject came up in recent posts.

 

This post reminded me of a PS fluid cooler I put on my Pro-Solo car. With 11" slicks I would overheat the PS fluid and it would foam over and feel like on/off while steering, just like Metalhead said. It was some serious autocross with quick hard manuevers, at 1.25G. I found The Trans Am cars had a steel cooler line that was just a simple but long loop below the radiator. Ran from fender to fender, left to right. Put one on my Z28. Solved the steering issues. It was about 8 feet of steel tubing, no fins, kind of near the airflow, but behind the lip spoiler, so I guess just simple heat radiation cooled it. Better than trying to cool the fluid by radiating heat thru a rubber hose anyway LOL! Bet it would work on a C3 also. Plenty of room in front of the radiator, and could be hidden inside the nose. Would be easy to bend your own. Use it on the low pressure return line.

 

Men have penises
Women have volvos.

 

I just found the CANBUS codes for the Volvo electric power steering pump. I'm going to try to build a controller for it so the pressure can be adjusted instead of just running in default mode. I'll update if I get it working.

Also there are standalone controllers now available for this pump. Volvo pump controller

 

i just finished this installation on my '78. it certainly has made an improvement from the manual steering, BUT, it sometimes wants to rip the wheel out of my hands at parking lot speed when turning.i have double checked everything connection wise.would appreciate any advice, thoughts or better yet, a solution. thank you.

 

Excellent modification
I may suggest instead of going with an 80 amp fuse you go with an 80 amp breaker instead.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

 

I've never experienced that. It doesn't seem likely that it's the pump, more like some valve issue in the Borgenson, but I'm pulling at straws. Ask Borgenson and see what they say.

 

Works for me. Actually I use the same one for my brushless fan.

 

big surprise! burgeon tech said he couldn't believe it was their box at fault

 

the script correct for this page won't allow me to spell burgeon correctly. the tech said he couldn't believe the problem was in the box ( and maybe it isn't), but thought the problem was in my volvo/ford pump. not sure how the pump would initiate the problem; as far as i know it is a constant pressure pump. open to any ideas or conjecture. thanks

 

I agree that it's not likely the pump.

So let's think out of the box to see what else could it be other than the Borgeson. What scenarios would make a wheel pull to one side?

Maybe dirt in the hydraulic fluid causing valves to not close?
Maybe hot fluid with bubbles inside?
Maybe fluid is low and picking up air?
Maybe tire rubbing?
Maybe something in the wheel bearing causing the tire to drag.
Maybe steering wheel friction or looseness?
Any possibility you hit a curb?

 

thanks for the ideas. i don't think dirt is an issue, new box, clean new fluid and freshly flushed pump. doesn't feel hot, see no bubbles when bleeding.fluid is at correct level. no tire rub. steering wheel seems fine and not loose. no curb hits, it does it in either direction. will tear into front end as soon as i am able, as i tore my rotator cuff 3 days ago, dominant arm now in a sling. will be awhile before i'm back in garage but i can still type one fingered with my left hand.still open for anything.

 

93 comp yellow: I would think that the only thing that could cause a sudden force increase at parking lot speed would be a sticking pressure relief valve in a normal hydraulic pump. It must move smoothly and modulate smoothly as I believe it would be "active" virtually all the time unless the pump outlet is completely blocked and it will be putting out 1300 psi then. The normal pressure is much much less. Any restriction in movement could cause it to "hang up" and to very suddenly give you way more psi than desired. That could easily cause the "wheel jerking" scenario. Internally the pump is a positive displacement vane pump and they will pump "X" amount of flow all the time. Restricting the flow below the pump output is what creates the psi. The pressure relief spring creates an internal "leak" and the outlet is only a couple hundred, unless more flow is demanded. The pressure and flow changes constantly during driving as the wheel is turned, and the pressure relief valve also moves constantly, as it "tries" to hold the psi consistent, even under high flow conditions. I would suspect dirt or a burr in the valve, restricting it's movement. All the valve in the steering box does is open up to allow more flow.

Metalhead has a very different scenario, the wheel becomes "stiff" under very quick race transitions. This demands the most flow. His pump/orifice combo is not putting out enough flow rate to keep up with the gearbox requirements, and the psi suddenly drops. In his case I would suggest first trying a larger flow restrictor orifice in the back of the pump. He needs to determine if the flow restrictor is too small for his conditions, or if the pump itself just can't pump enough. In either case, he winds up with low psi at the gearbox, and sudden no assist. I would also figure out a way to rule out overheating and foaming.

The Volvo electric driven box may also spin the pump at various speeds, changing the output flow/psi. So an electric "hiccup" could also cause "no assist" but not "too much". I do not think that is likely to apply to either one of you.

The controller mentioned says that can alter the steering force. Well, if it could slow the electric motor down, thus putting out less outlet psi, thus changing the force. That may mean this Volvo pump does not use a spring actuated pressure relief valve at all, and all of the pressure/flow control is handled electronically. That would completely change all the troubleshooting. And may just mean the pump is tired.

So I guess real issue here is: Does this Volvo Electric Pump have a spring loaded pressure relief valve , or not, and how do we find out?