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Using a Motive Brake Bleeder

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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 09:18 AM
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Default Using a Motive Brake Bleeder

I've been tinkering with bleeding the calipers using a MityVac after replacing the M/C that was bench bled. The fronts bled fine with simply using gravity bleed method but the rears have been troublesome. So I'm following the advice of many posters here on the forum, tossing the MityVac and upgrading to a Motive bleeder. I read about chains and hooks and after a couple of videos I see what is meant by the use of a C clamp. I also see lots of different Motive bleeder configurations and I'm assuming the 1105 is what we use on the C3 master cylinder.

I also see many of you have have built your own master cylinder cover to work with the Motive bleeder. Wouldn't mind any direction from those that built one they have found works well over several brake bleed encounters.
https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-105-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DY16/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=77996657413434&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=motive+power+bleeder&qid=1570453451&sr=8-4 https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-105-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DY16/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=77996657413434&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=motive+power+bleeder&qid=1570453451&sr=8-4

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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 09:34 AM
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I use a 6" C clamp with my motive bleeder, have not seen the need to complicate it further as this works well.

Orient the clamp with fixed portion on bottom of master cylinder

Same lid as shown in your link

Last edited by 74_stingray; Oct 7, 2019 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 10:09 AM
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That is the right setup you have. Only way to go in my opinion.

I like to use a piece of 2x4 wood on top of the plate before I tighten the c-clamp.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 11:52 AM
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I have the old plate they came with about 12 years ago. Still use a C Clamp with it. Check the hose crimped connections, I found them loose on the later screw on cap version.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 12:58 PM
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I wanted to actually see inside the MC as the Motive tank was filling it. With a solid cover, you really can't tell if the Motive ran dry and the MC ran dry.
My first attempt at a "clear" MC cover failed. I used 1/4" plexiglass. It shattered. My second attempt is 1/2" Lexan, and has four times the strength. Why does it have to be strong? I too use a giant "C" clamp.
I also found that flooding the entire MC had too much potential for a dripping mess. So I designed the cover to do one side of the MC only. Obviously the rear brake system goes first, then the fronts by flipping the plate around. My only regret is that the clear line from the tank to the MC does not have a shut-off valve. (Yet)

You can see the unit I made in my profile>albums> brake bleeding. The Lexan was cut to size by any home glass / window place.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 7, 2019 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 02:02 PM
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I found it was less messy to use the Motive Bleeder as an air pressure pump.. Fill the master, install the cover and add pressure. No fluid in the bleeder. Worked fine for me. And no worry about brake fluid everywhere. And not having to wash the bleeder out with alcohol after I'm done either.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 03:59 PM
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I know others have done this also. But you might as well use compressed air from your shop. The whole idea of the Motive tank is to have an almost endless supply of brakefluid. I pour 2 Qts in my Motive. That allows me to do all six bleeders with a really good flush.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I know others have done this also. But you might as well use compressed air from your shop. The whole idea of the Motive tank is to have an almost endless supply of brakefluid. I pour 2 Qts in my Motive. That allows me to do all six bleeders with a really good flush.
Then you don't need a Lexan lid if you fill it with two quarts.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 06:10 PM
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Just be sure to air test the cover seal before you go to brake fluid in the tank (I did the c-clamp plus a piece of alum. bar stock), the motive gasket is a little on the thin and hard side so I think that's why the chain clamp doesn't work. (I'm going to try to find some slightly thicker and lower durometer material)
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by suprspooky
Just be sure to air test the cover seal before you go to brake fluid in the tank (I did the c-clamp plus a piece of alum. bar stock), the motive gasket is a little on the thin and hard side so I think that's why the chain clamp doesn't work. (I'm going to try to find some slightly thicker and lower durometer material)
See my profile>albums>brake bleeding for a MC cover.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 07:52 PM
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If you are using the Motive bleeder with fluid just be careful when you are done as it will fill the master to the very top making it easy to spill fluid onto paint surfaces.
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 11:31 AM
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One word of advice with the Motive bleeder. Add air hose quick connect 1/4" fittings to the hoses. I never add fluid to my motive bleeder and just use it as a pressure device. The quick connects make it real easy to keep pressure in the Motive, but remove the master cylinder adapter to add fluid.
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 71 Vert LS1
If you are using the Motive bleeder with fluid just be careful when you are done as it will fill the master to the very top making it easy to spill fluid onto paint surfaces.
That is correct, unfortunately. That is why I need to install a shut-off valve or a quick-disconnect.
When I am done bleeding the system, I remove pressure and just open a bleeder, any bleeder to get the MC fluid level where it suppose to be.

If I guy was clever he would figure a way to shut off the Motive fluid supply, but continue with the air supply, just enough to force the MC brake fluid level down a bit.
This is the scenario where a clear MC lid lets you see what's going on in the MC fluid level.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 10, 2019 at 06:48 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
That is correct, unfortunately. That is why I need to install a shut-off valve or a quick-disconnect.
When I am done bleeding the system, I remove pressure and just open a bleeder, any bleeder to get the MC fluid level where it suppose to be.

If I guy was clever he would figure a way to shut off the Motive fluid supply, but continue with the air supply, just enough to force the MC brake fluid level down a bit.
There is the scenario where a clear MC lid lets you see what's going on in the MC fluid level.
When you are done bleeding, simply tilt the Motive tank so the pick-up is out of the fluid. Only air pressure will be applied to the remaining fluid in the tube to the MC. Open any caliper bleeder and observe the fluid in the CLEAR tube as it's forced down the tube and into the MC. When the CLEAR tube is empty, close the open caliper bleeder. Relieve the tank pressure and remove the cover from the the MC. MC is full, no muss, no fuss, no mess.
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 08:09 PM
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I too use my motive bleeder dry. The Vette uses DOT 5 and all my others use DOT 3 and I don't feel like completely cleaning it out every time I use it. As suggested above, I too use a block of wood over the adapter for the MC and I use wood clamps on mine, but C clamps would definitely work just as well. I my case, I'd never had a more solid pedal than after I used the Motive bleeder.
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by revitup
When you are done bleeding, simply tilt the Motive tank so the pick-up is out of the fluid. Only air pressure will be applied to the remaining fluid in the tube to the MC. Open any caliper bleeder and observe the fluid in the CLEAR tube as it's forced down the tube and into the MC. When the CLEAR tube is empty, close the open caliper bleeder. Relieve the tank pressure and remove the cover from the the MC. MC is full, no muss, no fuss, no mess.
System perfected. Kudos.

As for silicone DOT 5, I guess if your car sits all winter.........
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
I too use my motive bleeder dry. The Vette uses DOT 5 and all my others use DOT 3 and I don't feel like completely cleaning it out every time I use it. As suggested above, I too use a block of wood over the adapter for the MC and I use wood clamps on mine, but C clamps would definitely work just as well. I my case, I'd never had a more solid pedal than after I used the Motive bleeder.
I use Dot 5 in one 78 and brakes are like those you describe. Changing to Dot 5 in the Pace Car so you answered my question about use of Motive bleeder with Dot 5.
As you know, one does not want to agitate the Dot 5 excessively, otherwise, air is introduced into the system.
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
I too use my motive bleeder dry. The Vette uses DOT 5 and all my others use DOT 3 and I don't feel like completely cleaning it out every time I use it. As suggested above, I too use a block of wood over the adapter for the MC and I use wood clamps on mine, but C clamps would definitely work just as well. I my case, I'd never had a more solid pedal than after I used the Motive bleeder.
Pretty much what I do, though I use the block of wood AND the C-clamp. I have the longer adapter plate for my Willwood MC and I get less air leakage this way. I’ll often get some air leakage when first seating it and just imagine the mess if I ran it full of brake fluid.
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I found it was less messy to use the Motive Bleeder as an air pressure pump.. Fill the master, install the cover and add pressure. No fluid in the bleeder. Worked fine for me. And no worry about brake fluid everywhere. And not having to wash the bleeder out with alcohol after I'm done either.

me too.
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I found it was less messy to use the Motive Bleeder as an air pressure pump.. Fill the master, install the cover and add pressure. No fluid in the bleeder. Worked fine for me. And no worry about brake fluid everywhere. And not having to wash the bleeder out with alcohol after I'm done either.
Me three. Here's my setup (Motive cap), air pressure only.

A large quick clamp also works, if it's big enough.


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