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Using a Motive Brake Bleeder

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Old Oct 11, 2019 | 06:04 PM
  #21  
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When and how do you know to stop pressurizing and check fluid level. I have been fighting with my miteyvac. Just can't get solid fluid flow.
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Old Oct 11, 2019 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by twinpack
When and how do you know to stop pressurizing and check fluid level. I have been fighting with my miteyvac. Just can't get solid fluid flow.
This is how I know when to stop.

I connect to the caliper bleeder ~ 6 feet of clear plastic tube. One end into a bucket to collect fluid.

Start the bleed until all the air is pushed out of the tube into the bucket. Then close the bleeder and remove the line from the bleeder to introduce a air bubble in the clear tubing, then reconnect to the bleeder and bleed again
until the air is pushed into the bucket.

After 3 complete bleeds the rear MC bowl is almost empty and 4 complete bleeds the front bowl is almost empty.

Or you can calculate the bowl capacity and determine the total amount of fluid (volume) of the plastic tubing for 6 ft and determine how many time you can bleed before you empty the bowl.

But with trial and error you will start to learn when to stop. If you only use a short plastic tube connected to the caliper it will take a long time. The longer you make the tubing the less times you need to close the bleeder and add air to the line and start again.

I don't use a motive bleeder, but its the same ideal. Here is what I use and connect to my air compressor.





Last edited by cagotzmann; Oct 11, 2019 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2019 | 12:44 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
One word of advice with the Motive bleeder. Add air hose quick connect 1/4" fittings to the hoses. I never add fluid to my motive bleeder and just use it as a pressure device. The quick connects make it real easy to keep pressure in the Motive, but remove the master cylinder adapter to add fluid.
Got my Motive bleeder and like the idea of quick connect. I'm assuming the male attaches to the M/C cover plate, thus keeping the tank under pressure. But then, once the unit is "disconnected" and pressure escapes from the M/C cover, what does it do to the fluid? Is it not sucked up with the vacuum as the air depressurizes?

Last edited by hunt4cleanair; Oct 13, 2019 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2019 | 01:48 PM
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Russel Speed Bleeders doesn't get any easier
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 09:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by hunt4cleanair
Got my Motive bleeder and like the idea of quick connect. I'm assuming the male attaches to the M/C cover plate, thus keeping the tank under pressure. But then, once the unit is "disconnected" and pressure escapes from the M/C cover, what does it do to the fluid? Is it not sucked up with the vacuum as the air depressurizes?
The mail fitting on the adapter just lets the air out. There is nothing down in the fluid of the master, so when disconnected it just releases the pressure. My goal was to keep the motive under pressure so I did not have to keep pumping it up when I added fluid to the master. It is also nicer to have a clean motive instead of one full of fluid.
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 12:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by twinpack
When and how do you know to stop pressurizing and check fluid level. I have been fighting with my miteyvac. Just can't get solid fluid flow.
mitey vacs don't wok very well with the lip seals on the calipers, you will always suck air in from around the lip seal.

use a different system either pump the pedal or use a pressure bleeder

Last edited by bobs77vet; Oct 15, 2019 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 12:41 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by hunt4cleanair
Got my Motive bleeder and like the idea of quick connect. I'm assuming the male attaches to the M/C cover plate, thus keeping the tank under pressure. But then, once the unit is "disconnected" and pressure escapes from the M/C cover, what does it do to the fluid? Is it not sucked up with the vacuum as the air depressurizes?
the fluid gets sprayed out all over the place if you dont do it right...thats why a lot of use it as only a pressure bleeder......to answer your question you turn the container so the tube is not submerged and then watch the fluid pass through the tube to the MC then you depressurize it.
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 12:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Then you don't need a Lexan lid if you fill it with two quarts.
The 1/2" Lexan lid handles the big "C" clamp I apply w/o cracking. I put quite a bit of clamping force on it so the gasket doesn't leak.
And I can see inside the MC while bleeding.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 15, 2019 at 12:50 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 03:43 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
The mail fitting on the adapter just lets the air out. There is nothing down in the fluid of the master, so when disconnected it just releases the pressure. My goal was to keep the motive under pressure so I did not have to keep pumping it up when I added fluid to the master. It is also nicer to have a clean motive instead of one full of fluid.
This is strange but it built some nice pressure but only the left rear outboard bleeder bled and not well. The right side...no response! When I went to repressurize the Motive (refresh fluid), it would not pressurize. Fluid weeps from the rear glare nut, (not leaks) even after several attempts to loosen and get the line flare to seat with the m/c. I've also concluded that I must have tripped the valve in the proportional valve. I plan to remove it, clean it, etc.

But what about that rear flare nut and line that won't seat with the m/c? What to do without replacing the line?
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 09:21 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by hunt4cleanair
This is strange but it built some nice pressure but only the left rear outboard bleeder bled and not well. The right side...no response! When I went to repressurize the Motive (refresh fluid), it would not pressurize. Fluid weeps from the rear glare nut, (not leaks) even after several attempts to loosen and get the line flare to seat with the m/c. I've also concluded that I must have tripped the valve in the proportional valve. I plan to remove it, clean it, etc.

But what about that rear flare nut and line that won't seat with the m/c? What to do without replacing the line?
I would check for a burr or debris that could be keeping it from sealing properly. It could be a crack in the line, MC or fitting causing the weep.
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 03:39 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
I would check for a burr or debris that could be keeping it from sealing properly. It could be a crack in the line, MC or fitting causing the weep.
Found a "nick" on the M/C flair of the brake line...I mean a nick! Removed to confirm, at first I could feel it so removed it. Replacement ordered.
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