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Any help would be absolutely appreciated. It's one of the last steps to getting the car running.
are the floats leaking, if not dont replace them and from what I just researched Holley no longer carries them. Try other sources if you need them.
Why are you changing metering blocks? Look up the correct ones at the Holley Tech site numeric listing of carburetors
I do own a Tri-power, I'd suggest going with 2 Quick Fuel Metering Plates, you can't tell from the outside and it gives you Screw in Jet adjust-ability.
I run them in my outboard Carbs and they work great. My original Plates were badly corroded (to the point of leaking) so I had to replace them, the upgrade is worth it in my opinion. What year Is your car and is the Engine stock? 400hp or 435hp
I do have a great local Carb. Shop that has many NOS and used Tri-power parts as the owner is a Mopar Six-pack guy, (they've gotten a fair sum from me during the course of bringing my Tri-power back to life, but always have had what I needed).
I've gotten parts there for one of the German Forum members, and handled shipping it to him. Let me know if you need something specific and I'll see what I can do.
The shop I use will make you the correct Holley Plates if you want, he orders un-drilled plates and builds to spec. (it was my choice to go with the quick fuel plates, my motor is 460ci and 560hp so the adjustable jets are handy)
Last edited by suprspooky; Oct 24, 2019 at 05:14 PM.
215 heads
cam is a little bit bigger than stock but nothing dramatic.
Forged crank.
fresh rebuild.Nothing fancy.
In Omaha so 1089 feet.
So the original Plate has a 0.076" Main Feed diameter (same as on my originals), the closest Jet is a #72. That's where I'd start as you are close to my Altitude. I'm assuming you're tuning with O2 sensors so it should be pretty easy to dial it in. I just got my O2s hooked up last weekend and with my Muffler inserts and air Cleaner installed I'm around 11-12 at WOT (I think I went down to 71's based on my Engine Dyno runs being fat). I think I'll be running some 1/4 miles this weekend with the O2's and data logging so we'll see if it's good or not.
It's a 460 built off the original L71, I added a scat forged lower end (H-beams, 10.2ish c/r), AFR 265 Heads, a custom Hyd. roller 0.620" lift, 230ish dur. 109 lsa
Engine Dyno pulls with a big dart S/P and Holley it made like 593hp and with the Tri-power 559hp (both are std. corrected)
This weekend will be the second time down the strip since the 460 has been in the car, the first outing was a debacle because I made rookie mistakes like pulling the muffs out of the side pipes and removing the Air Cleaner which lead to some pretty nasty lean runs (no O2 sensors at that point). I will post a thread of the new results provided I don't embarrass myself worse this time (fingers crossed)
It's a replacement carb so it's dated as such. Was there a difference in 67/68 on fuel flow or cfm or anything?
Primary main jet on a 3660 is a 64.
Primary main jet on a 4055 is a 63.
If there are additional differences such idle feed restrictors, air bleeds, etc. I have no way of knowing.
Primary main jet on a 3660 is a 64.
Primary main jet on a 4055 is a 63.
If there are additional differences such idle feed restrictors, air bleeds, etc. I have no way of knowing.
where do i find the information that you have on file!
So the original Plate has a 0.076" Main Feed diameter (same as on my originals), the closest Jet is a #72. That's where I'd start as you are close to my Altitude. I'm assuming you're tuning with O2 sensors so it should be pretty easy to dial it in. I just got my O2s hooked up last weekend and with my Muffler inserts and air Cleaner installed I'm around 11-12 at WOT (I think I went down to 71's based on my Engine Dyno runs being fat). I think I'll be running some 1/4 miles this weekend with the O2's and data logging so we'll see if it's good or not.