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Firstly, let me just confirm something. If you remove your lower shock mounts (done) during a trailing arm rebuild, there is only ONE way they can be re-installed (left side / right side) given the bolt end can only exit the rear of the strut mounting bracket - correct?
I've roughed in all new (rebuilt) Vansteel trailing arms, strut rods, half shafts, and had the spring re-padded. By roughed in, I mean everything is torqued in place - exception the front trailing arm pivot bolts. I just put the old shims back for now - will be taking it in for four wheel alignment soon.
However, as it sits now, the right rear is much higher than the left rear. Seems to be a common problem - based on some searching I've done.
How much can the ride height really be "adjusted" with the two leaf spring link bolts - really? IE - if I tighten the left and loosen the right - how much can the height be effected? There is only so much thread to catch the cotter pin - so you have very little thread space.
The height can be changed in the rear of the car using the bolts. However, you should not use the bolts to change the height from left to right in any meaningful way. As others have mentioned, has the suspension leveled out yet? Are one of the shocks frozen? Did you change out the front springs? Are the body mounts in good shape? Jerry
The height can be changed in the rear of the car using the bolts. However, you should not use the bolts to change the height from left to right in any meaningful way. As others have mentioned, has the suspension leveled out yet? Are one of the shocks frozen? Did you change out the front springs? Are the body mounts in good shape? Jerry
Don't know what is meant by leveled out. I did roll it out, then back, then took it for about 1 mile around the block and back. No change in anything.
Car can be bounced on all four corners, so shocks are not frozen.
Body mounts seem fine. As to the front springs, did not replace them but had them out and back in again a while back.
Tampa Jerry - can you suggest a good C3 shop in the Tampa area that knows what they are doing. I'm in Carrollwood (North Tampa).
Vansteel suggested a Good Year shop in Clearwater for alignment, but I don't know of any shops closer to me.
If the front springs were removed and installed without indexing them correctly, you could easily have a 1" difference in the REAR of the car. I made that mistake. Install the spring in the upper pocket of the frame first. The top edge of the spring must be within 3/8" of the inspection hole in the frame. I put some blue painters tape on the spring to see it better. I also dropped a small bolt, 1/4-20 into the hole and used it as a stop for the spring. Lastly, put the spring in the lower control arm and compress the spring and attach the spindle assembly. Don't forget to remove the bolt in the frame. Jerry
If the front springs were removed and installed without indexing them correctly, you could easily have a 1" difference in the REAR of the car. I made that mistake. Install the spring in the upper pocket of the frame first. The top edge of the spring must be within 3/8" of the inspection hole in the frame. I put some blue painters tape on the spring to see it better. I also dropped a small bolt, 1/4-20 into the hole and used it as a stop for the spring. Lastly, put the spring in the lower control arm and compress the spring and attach the spindle assembly. Don't forget to remove the bolt in the frame. Jerry
Jerry, most all the videos and instructions that I've found say that the bottom of the spring must be in the socket and lined up with the stop in the lower arm. I understand the indexing point you've made as well. I don't understand how it can be both, unless the coil happens to hit the top stop in the correct position when the bottom end of the coil is seated at the bottom stop.
That said, my rear is way off - more than an inch. I think the issue may simply be that the top of the coil isn't even in the socket at all and is hung up on a ledge.
I'll take it down one more time and double check it all. If it still is way off I'll have Tony deal with it. I assume he has equipment to do a good four wheel alignment, which I'll need in any event - once I get the car sitting pretty.
Assuming the spring is installed straight, and the bolt connections on the ends are equal. I just changed from a 7 leaf to a 9 leaf spring. The original bolts were to short. They made the rear set to high. I had to get 1 inch longer bolts. Remember,,,,,, the ONLY thing that controls the ride height is the length of the end bolts,, for a given spring.
The videos you are viewing are incorrect if they pertain to a C-2 or C-3 Corvette. Please check the AIM or Assembly Instruction Manual. The AIM was put together by GM to be used on the assembly line as a reference as to how build the cars at the factory. Next to a repair manual, the AIM is a must have tool in repairing and restoring these old cars. They are year specific and can be purchased at any of the vendors. Jerry
The videos you are viewing are incorrect if they pertain to a C-2 or C-3 Corvette. Please check the AIM or Assembly Instruction Manual. The AIM was put together by GM to be used on the assembly line as a reference as to how build the cars at the factory. Next to a repair manual, the AIM is a must have tool in repairing and restoring these old cars. They are year specific and can be purchased at any of the vendors. Jerry
Thanks Jerry, I do have the AIM manual. The specific video I'm speaking about is here:
Jerry - I see what you mean. I took the spring out again and made sure the spring top / bottom was oriented properly (tight coils on top). Then I took a good look at the upper spring mount. There is really only ONE stop and if you happen to over shoot it with the end of the spring, I can see how the car would be higher on that side. Trusting the bottom to seat the top correctly may work if you luck out. That must be what happened to me with the right side.
I took care to seat (index) it correctly, and got it to spring back to the point that I was able to get the steering knuckle back on to hold it all in place. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to wrap it up and see how the car sits.
Make sure you check the bolt length on the end of the rear leaf spring and adjust them accordingly, before going to Tony.
So, I spoke with a local shop owner (Tony) - who suggested that I measure the four corners of the frame - comparing the front left / right to each other along with the rear left / right. Seems that the whole frame is off on the right side... IE the right front is higher by 1" to the left front, and the right rear is higher by 1" than the left rear.
So, I may have misled everyone about the rear height being off. The whole right side is off, just you really can notice it from the rear of the car much more than the front.... Of course parked in the garage nose in, the back is very noticeable. My bad.
This is picture of when I put the car in my garage for the first time after I bought it at a show. I think (even though it's at an angle), it seems to be sitting evenly.
Did you check each spring to see if they were cut by the prior owner.
Some people will adjust the front ride height and level the front end by cutting or heating the front coils.
If you removed the springs or got them swapped from left to right, it could cause you an issue.
Good Luck.
Did you check each spring to see if they were cut by the prior owner.
Some people will adjust the front ride height and level the front end by cutting or heating the front coils.
If you removed the springs or got them swapped from left to right, it could cause you an issue.
Good Luck.
Yes I kept them left to right - and compared them as well. Issue seems to be more that the whole frame is up on the right side by 1" - Front to Rear
Is that a 914? My uncle has a 67 912 that has been apart in his Los Angeles garage since 1972. I have a chance to buy it as he is almost 90 and will never restore it. I am trying to figure out a fair price and how to get it to Florida from CA as the engine and transmission are out of the car. Jerry
Yup, 914 that I recently sold - went back to Germany of all places. Have tons of photos of it. Was a 2 liter, but not the 6 (sad). Original car - with working everything. Can't say the same for the C3 - but I really like the Vette. All new interior, all new suspension (although issues persist), replaced radiator, and radiator support, paint is maybe a 7 (done about 6 years ago in torch red), new radio, I added Vintage Air - which is ICE COLD, hooker headers, flow master, mild cam.... But just my toy at this point.
Anyway, the 912's bring a big price if done right. Something worth hauling from CA if the car is complete (although apart). I had to have my motor rebuilt, so I have contacts and experience with the Make.
Is it a targa or coupe? - as you most likely know rust can be a huge issue, more so if it's a targa.
If you end up getting it to Tampa and need help, let me know. Be glad to lend a wrench turn or two.