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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Yes most people do that and its been recommended for years. If you look up "military splice" you can use a wire stripper to push the insulation away far enough that you can use a pick to seperated the wires enough to put a bare wire though them and twist tight. You can solder at that point or just insulate. Its a better , safer and more effecient way to do it than those blue box splices that tend to fail and look half assed. And you dont have to cut the original wire.
you can leave it looking like a "T" and use balck RTV to make a new insulation cover
The choke will be ON in the accessory position- and off during start- might not be an issue- but using the ignition wire at the fusebox is on during ignition and when the starter is engaged.
Make sure to use the correct wire for under the hood- SXL type wire- it's a cross link poly versus the standard wire that's a PVC- it can handle the heat as it's rated for 250+°F
And the wiper fuse (yellow wire) is rated at 20A- so make sure you use at least 14GA wire - otherwise the wire could possible melt the insulation before the fuse blows.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
It doesnt matter if the choke has power when you start it, the power is there to heat the coil (spring, whatever the company that designed it used) to open the choke. I have an aftermarket one made for a quadrajet that had the heat stove in the intake. It incorporates a coil that takes 3 to 5 minutes to heat up so that if it stalls right away, the choke still is in the cold position, rich position.
It doesnt matter if the choke has power when you start it, the power is there to heat the coil (spring, whatever the company that designed it used) to open the choke. I have an aftermarket one made for a quadrajet that had the heat stove in the intake. It incorporates a coil that takes 3 to 5 minutes to heat up so that if it stalls right away, the choke still is in the cold position, rich position.
Like I said- might not be an issue- but do realize when you put the key in accessory - the choke will be drawing current- about 6.5A at start up and then to about an 1A after it heats up...
Just saying you do have the possibility of wiping out the battery if you unintentionally turn the key back too far....
Yellow wire for choke?
