When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Jim, I really need to point something out. For the life of me I can't begin to understand how you are able to drive a car running in the 8's with a manual transmission and turbos! Most cars running those times with turbos are using automatics. To say you are supremely talented with a stick is an understatement. I know how fast things happen in my high 9 second car and I don't have to push in a clutch pedal! Then there is that little issue of you having to keep a car with that much power going straight. Oh, and the fact that you built this car by yourself is even more impressive. You are truly one in a million and have my undying respect! I look forward to seeing your future time slips going even lower!
To me this is what "Street Outlaws" should be. Those guys who claim to have the fastest "street cars in America" are really just race cars they race on a public streets. Jim has a real "street car" that will go like hell on a race track and then turn around and get some ice cream with the Miss afterwards. That's a real street car.
Last edited by theandies; Nov 17, 2019 at 06:30 AM.
Jim, I really need to point something out. For the life of me I can't begin to understand how you are able to drive a car running in the 8's with a manual transmission and turbos! Most cars running those times with turbos are using automatics. To say you are supremely talented with a stick is an understatement. I know how fast things happen in my high 9 second car and I don't have to push in a clutch pedal! Then there is that little issue of you having to keep a car with that much power going straight. Oh, and the fact that you built this car by yourself is even more impressive. You are truly one in a million and have my undying respect! I look forward to seeing your future time slips going even lower!
Thanks Steve....I've been pounding on this thing so long it just seems normal! It's still "lazy" on the front half which will greatly improve if/when I decide to implement some boost controls and get it up on boost at the line...and then get it to accept that power. It doesn't really have any lag...just comes on REAL strong as it builds boost. It's always been a "back half" car even when N/A...but that also helps get it hooked up at the start.
To me this is what "Street Outlaws" should be. Those guys who claim to have the fastest "street cars in America" are really just race cars they race on a public streets. Jim has a real "street car" that will go like hell on a race track and then turn around and get some ice cream with the Miss afterwards. That's a real street car.
Yeah...those guys are in a whole 'nuther league for sure! My car is just like any other C2 out there...just has stupid drivetrain bolted under it! It's fun to drive and has been pretty darn reliable considering what I do to it. In 19 years it's had one engine issue and that was caused by a fuel pump that died and it leaned out and torched a piston before I could get my foot out of it. Drivetrain has been rock solid once I put the Dana 60 IRS under it and installed the GForce trans. The new clutch I just installed wasn't broken...just worn out after years of racing and street use. So far so good!!
I guess I need to stick some BIG turbos on it and make some real power!
For sure ! I am currently researching the best ways or areas to beef up rear. Like the .134 wall 3.5 half shafts and solid U joints and the upgrade outer stubs that have the axle flanges for the wheels studs.. They have some on Dana- Rockauto 1541H alloy for $76 each . You did some kind of 1x2 rect tube limiters to the bottom out snubbers ?
For sure ! I am currently researching the best ways or areas to beef up rear. Like the .134 wall 3.5 half shafts and solid U joints and the upgrade outer stubs that have the axle flanges for the wheels studs.. They have some on Dana- Rockauto 1541H alloy for $76 each . You did some kind of 1x2 rect tube limiters to the bottom out snubbers ?
Tom's differentials sells the best axles. There's some cheap stuff out there. I had my halfshafts made at a driveshaft shop. 3.5's are probably overkill unless you go with the whole 1480 u-joint setup....but good 3" will take a lot.
I've played with various snubbers over the years. I have some extended ones now. Best thing is to get a real stiff rear spring and good adjustable shocks to handle the hit. My spring is a "Daytona" 5 leaf with an added main leaf. I've got QA-1 rear shocks.
You planning on an auto or a stick? Auto's do pretty good "squatting" and hook up even easier.
Its gonna be auto especially for the reduced stress on rear. Probably a 625hp/600 tq oval port 496 11:1 alum head pump gas. Good 3" shafts with good joints, new 1541H outer stubs. I was gonna get some grade 8 all thread and make some adjustable height hardware for rear spring lowering. This is not happening anytime soon just clean up for now gonna plan on paint removal this year and return the 68 gills back
Last edited by Larry Parks; Jan 12, 2020 at 03:53 PM.
Jim, you have a close up picture of your rearend setup the center section or one like it.
I lost all the pics of mine when it was apart. Haven't had to go inside of it since I put it under there. Here's some of a similar one we found and Mike (TRACCDOG) went through for a buddy of mine. It has a spool and a one piece axle whereas mine has a Posi and two axles. But looks similar. Mine uses a 3/4" aluminum plate that bolts to cover area and then Vette cover bolts to it. I included a view of it under the car. It's based off a Hemi housing that has a place for a pinion snubber mount which makes it easy to build a front mount.
You can see how big a Dana 60 is compared to a Vette diff. 9.75" ring gear vs 8.2"!
What if someone took a dana 60 say out of a pickup removed the tubes shortened them to almost nothing in length then made a, ill call it a yoke for the Ujoint mounted to the axle end flange. Have always thought the dana 60 a better rear end then the ford 9 inch other then the nice option of changing third members the ford rear has.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jan 13, 2020 at 01:45 PM.
What if someone took a dana 60 say out of a pickup removed the tubes shortened them to almost nothing in length then made a, ill call it a yoke for the Ujoint mounted to the axle end flange. Have always thought the dana 60 a better rear end then the ford 9 inch other then the nice option of changing third members the ford rear has.
The Dana is a stronger rear. Pro stock went from the Dana to the 9" decades ago because it was lighter and gear changes were easier. Just swap the pumpkin. A Dana it's has been done before.then you just break everything else lol
I don't know 427 hot rodder lol has been beating on that 5 speed for a long time with lots of tq. I guess if he can find a way to break it he will try to shoehorn in a liberty 5 speed. I did read where Jenkins ran a dana 60 in his Vega, in 74 for a very short time he tried to make a 12 bolt work, to much grief he went back to the dana.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jan 13, 2020 at 10:16 PM.
I don't know 427 hot rodder lol has been beating on that 5 speed for a long time with lots of tq. I guess if he can find a way to break it he will try to shoehorn in a liberty 5 speed. I did read where Jenkins ran a dana 60 in his Vega, in 74 for a very short time he tried to make a 12 bolt work, to much grief he went back to the dana.
His tranny is a Gforce GF5r so he has a strong one there. I believe they are rated to 1300 or so hp depending.
