1980 Instrument Lighting Issues
Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 319
Likes: 125
From: Midwest
Actually the '78+ gauge pack and instrument cluster aren't very difficult to remove. That said I do suggest you remove the carpet center console sides, the emergency brake cover and loosen the shifter plate (moving it to the rear) before removing the gauge pack. This takes some extra time but there's less chance of damaging anything and it's easier to get everything lined up when you reassemble. Removing both seats makes the job easier.
From my own actual experience, I vouch for the advice above. Take your time, be patient, and its not that bad. Put some relaxing music on to help keep you from getting in a hurry. Removing the seats will make getting into the console much easier. Once you're in, you can place one or both seats back in (without bolting them) to have a seat to do your console work. Then you can quickly remove the seats again when you are ready to replace the side panels and complete your project.
While you're in there, if desired, consider installing a quartz clock, which will work accurately for many years.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,649
Likes: 2,466
From: Indiana
I also repaired mine with super glue--both delamination and loose "ears". I had to go back in about a year later and the delamination had spread beyond the repair and the "ears" I'd attached were again loose. I glued again and after all the bending a couple ears broke and I even soldered on some copper foil (used in stained glass windows) to replace. A year later I was in there again and guess what? More delamination and more loose ears. I bought replacements but had to go in again when the low fuel module quit working to find the fitment problem due to the thinner replacement.
was going to clean the clock but the circuit board is like so old i know i would destroy it getting to clock..where did you get circuit film?
good tip on the low fuel part.
this look like it? I may buy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Printed-Cir...8AAOSwd~RZO0Ff
edit i bought...i want to get at clock..it works when tapped on..hoping clean contacts ans spray
i also recommend removing the gauges and cleaning polish plastic and they look like new
Last edited by interpon; Nov 16, 2019 at 10:30 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 22
From: Kentucky
I had no lights working in center gauge cluster and after replacing printed circuit and insuring all bulbs were good I had no lights by connecting power directly to the "hot" and ground from battery to the ground tab on the circuit. Finally got them to work by attaching ground to a screw on back of the cluster. There is some surface rust on the metal cluster back which i assume is not completing a good ground. I plan to sand it all off tomorrow and hopefully I will have lights again. Its been a journey!
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 226
From: PA
I do wonder though about how many miles are on the car that resulted in so many bulbs being out. I've driven mine 90k since new and not a bulb has burned out.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 226
From: PA
As for removing the gage cluster, I never actually found it to be that difficult. Note you don't have to remove the console side panels. I just take out the front two screws and then bend them back. I've done it many times and they never broke. I did take them off when putting in a new parking brake cable and the hardest thing about that job was getting the screw between the seat and console back in.
