I recently acquired a 1980 C3 which the previous owner never drove at night. They didn't know, therefore, that most of the bulbs in the instrument cluster, as well as other bulbs, are burned out.
Is there a list, somewhere, of ALL the light bulbs that are supposed to be there? I can't find the A/C controls in the dark. The "high beam" light is out... most of the lights in and around the speedometer and tach are out. I would like to find a COMPLETE list of all bulb locations, along with part numbers, so I can obtain them all, before I start trying to replace them. Also, any information about disassembling the dash (I need to remove the speedometer to send it in for re-marking and re-calibration).
Thanks!

 

The lamp numbers are listed in the owners manual. The manual is available reprinted.
The vendors have kits of all the lamps.
Removing the dash is A ROYAL pita.
Do a search on here.

 

All they made in 80 was a c3 no need to say c3 , be careful pulling the center cluster that the top bulb holder don't tear the dash pad , getting new printed circuit would be wise they start to fall apart. Dropping down the steering column helps big time getting the speedo cluster out.

 

I think corvette central sells a complete dash light bulb kit. Just replace them all while you're in there.

 

Actually the '78+ gauge pack and instrument cluster aren't very difficult to remove. That said I do suggest you remove the carpet center console sides, the emergency brake cover and loosen the shifter plate (moving it to the rear) before removing the gauge pack. This takes some extra time but there's less chance of damaging anything and it's easier to get everything lined up when you reassemble. Removing both seats makes the job easier.

Hidden fasteners you will encounter: 1) the ones in the carpet sides (front, middle and rear) that are mainly concealed by the carpet pile and 2) underneath the front of the shifter place where there are two screws (each in plastic tabs) that go up into the gauge bezel at an odd angle. You really have to contort around to see them.

You need three different bulbs:

#192 (three candlepower) These are the general illumination lamps for the cluster, gauge pack and transmission shift (auto only).

#194 (two candlepower) These are for the indicators/warnings (like turn signals, high beams, seatbelt reminder, etc.) and the windshield wiper/washer switch. If you use the higher power #192s in these you risk deforming the plastic after extended use.

#558 (three candlepower) This one is for the "lantern" at the top of the gauge pack that lights to HVAC controls. I heard they were discontinued fairly recently and are getting hard to find. They have a small lens cast into the very front center. If you slightly drill out the metal piece just ahead of the lamp and slightly enlarge the rectangular aperture in the plastic piece you will get FAR better lighting of the controls.

I'm not sure of the exact number of #192 and #194 lamps needed but as they come in boxes of 10 you need two boxes of the #192s and 1 box of #194. As long as you can make a minimum order to get free shipping you'll get the best deal ordering lamps from sources that specialize in in them like 1000bulbs

 

That's my plan. I'd be crazy not to replace them all while I'm in there!

 

Here is that stupid hvac bulb..mine went out again..waiting for stereo rebuild before that..yes pita but doable..take out seats and side panels as mentioned..just a thought that that stupid to bulb fits in but it does...


i think that is the bulb...many say they have it but send you the wrong one..its about 10 bucks a pop

 

I have an Owner's Manual (reprint). It has some of the numbers, but not quantity nor all LOCATIONS. I'm not sure where the 558 GOES, because I've never seen one WORKING!

 

Mine works. In the desert on a moonless night you can tell. Pretty sad. I will drill it out (Pin hole) next time.
If you take out the glove box liner, and reach in and around up top, it can be changed.
It's a developed skill. Someone will have a picture of what you would fumble for.

 

i’m gonna try that!

 

Yes, that did work for me on my 80. It really is a royal pain. I did have to replace the the printed circuit for the speedo/tach as well as the center gauges to get all the lights to work. The circuits were just too beat up.

 

The #558 goes top, front center of the gauge pack bezel. You'll see a narrow wedge shaped piece with a little rectangular hole at the end--the light shines through that hole and that's why it needs the special lamp with the lens cast in the end.

 

Thanks!

 

The entire gauge cluster can be removed easily. It may not be bulb related (but certainly change them!). The sockets can have issues, the rear connector may be loose, and the flexible printed circuit board may need to be replaced.

I switched to LEDs. SuperBrightLEDs.com has a list of all of the bulbs you need. I went with soft white, to maintain the period glow. LEDs have the added fun of having an orientation when installed, so if you can, test with a bench power supply.

Willcox has a good writeup on how to remove the cluster. If you loosen the steering column, be sure to loosen the bolts at the firewall first, so you don't wreck your lower bearing, and don't let the column hang freely.

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-instructions/

 

No need to wait until the next moonless lunar cycle (clever and true statement) before unobtrusively fixing your down-fire lighting design shortcoming:
1. Push a toothpick up through the down-fire bulb's hole and mark its toothpick depth with a pencil. It will stop when it touches the bulb.
2. Lay the marked toothpick next to the drilling end of a drill bit with a slightly larger diameter bit than the current down-fire light's hole (roughly 25% larger, though I used the brighter soft white LED bulbs) - then, mark a stopping point on the drill bit (i.e. piece of blue tape) that just short of contacting the bulb.
3. Drill away. Fixed in seconds.
4. Discard lunar schedule.

 

If the flexible printed circuits show any sign of delamination or if any of the little "ears" at the main connectors are loose I suggest you replace them as the problems only get worse. While I believe the replacement are actually superior they are thinner and the low fuel module will not fit tightly. You need to use a piece of pastboard (like the back of a note pad) or something similar as a backing to get it to fit snugly.

 

20 years ago I replaced mine with the dash.
2 years ago I changed the dash again, and the new one (printed circuit) was failing. I used super glue to repair it.

 

I also repaired mine with super glue--both delamination and loose "ears". I had to go back in about a year later and the delamination had spread beyond the repair and the "ears" I'd attached were again loose. I glued again and after all the bending a couple ears broke and I even soldered on some copper foil (used in stained glass windows) to replace. A year later I was in there again and guess what? More delamination and more loose ears. I bought replacements but had to go in again when the low fuel module quit working to find the fitment problem due to the thinner replacement.

 

Hey SwampThing, not to digress on the topic at hand, but just a passing comment on how nice that green really looks on your car in your forum avatar pic.

 

Thanks. That's the original "Corvette Dark Green" color that I believe was '79 only. It has a lot of color shift depending on the ambient light. Combined with the green cloth interior it makes mine a rather rare variant of the most popular year ever.