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Long story short... I had the 350(NOM) in my 71 rebuilt a few years ago. Last summer it developed a noise and water/oil mess in the breather. Took it in and the shop found a blown head gasket. No surprise. After thorough diesel washout etc they put it back together and it ran fine at the shop however, a couple lifters collapsed after about 1/2 hour of highway driving. The shop verified this and will help with the replacement but it was MY fault for not heeding their advice to replace lifters on re-assembly. They said they tried their best to get the antifreeze and water out but I guess it didn't work. Has anyone been successful in replacing lifters and push rods without replacing the cam? I've heard some concerns about it. Your thoughts? Thanks! Mike
Are you sure that it's a couple of lifters that have suddenly collapsed and it's not cam lobes that are wiped?
We picked it up the first time and it got noisy on the way home. Flatbed back to the shop and they were able to get it sounding and running perfect with all rockers showing same number of threads. Second trip home it got noisy again. No I can’t be sure it’s not the cam but I’m relying on their word (very good shop). ... Is it possible to install a cam without pulling engine? Thanks Mike
Lifter don't just "collapse"............I am afraid you wiped out cam lobes......water and/or Antifreeze in the engine would not cause collapsed lifters, but it could cause wiped cam lobes....... And there is no way I would run new lifters on an old cam......the chance of the lifters being able to spin on an old camshaft is marginal at best.
At this point I would do a Cam and lifter change........and pick out a cam that you like that will give you some more beans......this will give you piece of mind.
New lifter on old cam works if lobes on cam are in good condition. Old lifters on new cam not a good idea.
Since this happenned after head gasket repair. I would pull pan. Look for debris possibly restricting pick up. You could cut filter and see what it caught. I would also check a few bearings, not rear main unless seal is leaking; or other bearing are damaged. So many times improper practices doing top end repairs lead to bottom end failures.
I have done it many times with the engine in the car. I prefer to remove the hood after marking the hinge position with masking tape. Remove the fan and fan clutch from the water pump. Then remove the rad support/radiator/shroud in one unit as it's easier than struggling with the shroud in the car. Three bolts inside each fender well, two underneath. remove the hoses and the ground wire on the drivers side, the front brace then tilt the whole unit forward and lift straight up. That will give you all the room you need with minimal to no swearing required.
When more than one lifter starts making noise after a 30 min. drive your best bet isn't collapsed lifters. It's a cam going bad.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Dec 9, 2019 at 02:24 PM.
I had a lifter collapse about a year after I had my big block Ford rebuilt. No one told me to replace the cam at the same time. I went through two more sets of expensive hydraulic roller lifters before I got smart and changed the cam and lifters as a set. That was four years ago and the engine has been running perfectly ever since.
Rag top...YES! it is entirely possible to replace the cam WITHOUT pulling the engine....you DO have to pull the radiator however. In addition to the above good advice...I'd pop for another $200 and replace the timing chain assy with a good quality one....most of the labor will be captured in the 'pulling of the cam ' anyway.
Put new cam and lifters in at this point. Once an engine gets that milshake chances are the bearings are Fd.
Their fault for charging you and not being upfront or not knowing.
Costs is cheap enough cant hurt at this point.Stay away from the xe type stuff.