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I have a 72 coupe. I have ordered the weatherstripping from Willcox and waiting for its arrival. I have watched various videos on replacing the t top weatherstrip.
My question is; are there any other possible suggestions to remove the 4 screws. I have 2 removed and I have 2 screws that feel like they are turning the screw/nut assembly....the nut is turning within its fiberglass cage area. I have not yet removed the entire stripping. I have only worked on the screws at this time. Only on the drivers top also.
I’m looking for any suggestions to remove the other screws. I can reglue/epoxy new nuts, but need to remove the old stuff first.
I have a 1980 and I had to drill the heads off of a few screws that were not coming out any other way. I think my tops are a slightly different style though. After I got the screws out I used a plastic scraper to remove the old gasket. I put the adhesive and popped in the plastic clips but also used a bit of painters tape to hold the gaskets while it dried. One of the most satisfying repairs because you don't have to worry about the leaks anymore. Good luck!
I think mine are a slightly different style as mine were screws and not bolts with nuts. The same concept should work as far as being able to drill the heads off though. I like your idea of using epoxy to hold the but part long enough to tighten it. I have read about people doing something similar when repairing the 4th body mount at the back of the Corvette where the back of the bolt is hard to access.
When I did the t-tops on my '81, I don't believe there were any nuts in the frame, only fine thread screws. Replacement stainless steel screws (set of 8, part number 847094) are available from Ecklers.
Thanks Roy.
i’m not sure what the configuration looks like at this point.
i am only going on info from several videos that I’ve watched and from the Assembly Manual.
i haven’t had any input from a 68/74 owner.
i’ve already bought new stainless screws.
There can't be very much torque on those screws and nuts.
Are they in an area where you could slip a small wedge, like a soft wood door shim, between the body and trim to put pressure against the nut to hold it in place while turning the screw?
Just a thought?????????
I think that originally, there was not much torque on the screws.
the screw/nut have been in place for 45+ years and have rusted/corroded
together. they’re in a blind enclosed area that is not accessible without cutting
a hole into the top....can’t/won’t do that.
as soon as I receive the replacement pieces, I will remove the worn pieces and
see what the area looks like in more detail.
i’m open to helpful hints and ideas.