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I need to change the oil in my 78... It has a goodwrench 350 crate engine (no mods) in it from PO. It's certainly not new, but should be fairly low miles.... not exactly sure how many. Anyway, I read through the list in the flat tappet oils sticky, but have some questions. Note: I most often drive this car to/from work, which is 2.5 miles away... all city street miles.
1. I read that synthetic and racing oils aren't a good choice for engines that drive less than 5-10 miles at a time, which seems to leave only Collectors Choice from the sticky. Can someone recommend something I can get at Autozone/Advance Auto?
2. How often should I change the oil (again primarily short drives and ~1500 miles/year)?
OP w3
? Can you determine if your Goodwrench has flat tappet lifters or roller lifters ?? ... it matters which type oil.
I suggest a practical oil & filter change interval for your stated usage is once per year.
I don't know for sure, but I'm pretty confident it has not been modded in anyway, and you, good sir, infact helped me (Thank you) determine several months ago the engine block was a "Mexican L48":
I would run the Valvoline Racing formula silver bottle conventional oil for the high zinc additives in the 10W-30 weight for a GM built crate L48. NAPA has it around here.
I would run the Valvoline Racing formula silver bottle conventional oil for the high zinc additives in the 10W-30 weight for a GM built crate L48. NAPA has it around here.
so no worries about racing formula in an engine mostly running short driving cycles?
Seems Your Goodwrench probably has flat tappets which need the extra protection rollers don't. It's also likely to have relatively light 75-80 pound seat springs.
brace for impact https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod...synthetic.html
I suggest Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic Diesel Oil 5W-40 ... probably on shelf of Your local walmart in 1 gallon & 2.5 gallon jugs. FWIW, ALL T6 is Full Synthetic.
But, if you're in a warmer climate, suggest T6 in 15W-40. When properly maintained, any decent oil will be AOK. That's my tale & I'm sittin' on it.
if you store your vehicle for months at a time, suggest performing oil & filter change immediately prior to storage.
so no worries about racing formula in an engine mostly running short driving cycles?
No. That formulation has the additives for conventional street oil change intervals.
Short trips are hard because the oil might not get up to full temperature. Any moisture in the crank case is driven out on longer trips. Does not matter what oil is in there if it never gets hot for very long. Better to take it on a good longer run once in a while.
Honestly, I would not over think this too much. Zinc for the cam is the main goal.
Last edited by stingr69; Jan 12, 2020 at 03:57 PM.
Use this and use any inexpensive oil of your choice. That should cost alot less than having to buy zinc rich formulations. Synthetic oil would be a waste with your extremely short mileage and yearly oil changes. The additive can be used in a concentration as little as 1/2 oz per qt. and be effective.
This isn't a "snake oil" product, it's the real deal synthetic extreme pressure additive.
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Mobil1 20w50. High in zinc and phosphate, engineered for flat tappets and a 5 quart jug is about $25 at Walmart. Easy to get, great price and it wont break the bank to do 3 changes in the summer driving months
Agree completely with Sayfoo. There is NO reason not to use full synthetic in any engine or other rotating/meshing mechanism. It's lubricity, film strength, useful life and lack of oxidation just sitting in the crankcase are more than enough reasons to use it instead of organic oil. If you have hi-lift flat tappets with stronger than stock valve springs, you might want to add a little zinc with it. Otherwise, it's good for your engine.
I agree with Rescue Rogers, Mobil 1 20-50 on my 78 SA 350 with 124K on the lower end and 45K on a vortec head, came and lifters. I was using 0 - 40 until I saw the 20 - 50 had more zinc.
I'm driving in cool spring weather and putting the car up in mid November when the temperatures are in the 30's when we start out to see some fall color in the Finger Lakes.
Seems Your Goodwrench probably has flat tappets which need the extra protection rollers don't. It's also likely to have relatively light 75-80 pound seat springs.
brace for impact https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod...synthetic.html
I suggest Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic Diesel Oil 5W-40 ... probably on shelf of Your local walmart in 1 gallon & 2.5 gallon jugs. FWIW, ALL T6 is Full Synthetic.
But, if you're in a warmer climate, suggest T6 in 15W-40. When properly maintained, any decent oil will be AOK. That's my tale & I'm sittin' on it.
if you store your vehicle for months at a time, suggest performing oil & filter change immediately prior to storage.
This. Except stay with the 5W-40 regardless. With the trips that you describe your oil never gets up to operating temperature, so needs the low W number.
Also, take a short trip every two weeks to get the oil hot and aggressively boil off any moisture that gets in the crankcase.
Works in my '78 L-82 flat tappet, but I have switched over to Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30. I don't need to worry about contaminating my cats 'cause they're GONE!!
Last edited by pacecar620; Jan 14, 2020 at 10:56 AM.