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Well juuust got a call from my mechanic with some real bad news. I took it in for some bad knocking, and he said that I've got "piston slap", not rattle, where the piston is slappin' hard against the cylinder. He guesses that whoever rebuilt the block bored it out and didn't put the right size pistons or rings in.
So, any advice? The guy says it's pretty much a no-brainer that I am looking at another rebuild here, since the pistons don't apparently match up right, and that it is almost certainly the case.
Do I rebuild this L48 again that has 130k on it?
Put a replacement motor in?
or do I sell it outright and start over?
Oh man, this really stinks. I sold my C4 to buy this '77,and I just got hosed. I was all set to put in a cam, intake and headers, too. (cry)
Man that really sux.............Who is doing your engine work?? What would it cost to do a rebuild......?? There are a lot of nice crate motors out there for sure
I have a guy at American Automotive (literally right down the street from me) looking at it now. I tried to take it to the place you recommended on Hwy 140, but he apparently didn't want the work.
Do you know of a good place around here that will either rebuild it or drop in a crate? Any suggestions on where to find a crate motor locally? I am looking at some at http://rebuiltcarengines.com that have some 350 blocks for around $1,300 - $1,500.
http://www.JasperEngines.com has a reman 300hp short block for just under 2k. Actually for an extra $100 they picked up my short block and rebuilt it at there factory being careful with the casting numbers. But they don't install it. I had to pull it and reinstall it.
Why mess around with the 70s technology engine. Put in a ZZ4. It has almost twice the power of your L48 and is made to run on what passes for gasoline these days.
ZZ4 is more money than I think I want to spend. Granted, that is some nice power, but I don't want to throw in a tranny cooler, new radiator, etc. in there as well.
Yeah, the guy recommended Jasper as well. They don't install blocks? Yikes, who am I going to get to yank out this paperweight and plop that new block in?
Do you know anything about the internal works of a SBC? If so, rip into it and see what you are working with. If you have some decent knowledge of these engines and you are set to have it replaced/rebuilt anyway, take the intake, heads & pan off the motor to see what you really have. Any good mechanic is not going to penalize you if you carefully mark all parts/lines that are dissassembled. I'm sure many of us can walk you through it. A set of internal/external dial calipers is all that is needed after you get that far.
Just food for thought... you won't ever know if you don't have first hand knowledge.
Did you talk with Jerry Eller ....He has built three cars on the forum...Tell him Al told you to call....If he can't help you he may have suggestions......
Got an engine in my garage I got from Precision Engine out of Houston. I'm close so they delivered for free, but they do ship. 350 four bolt main, 9.5 to 1 federal mogul hypereutectic pistons. Speed pro moly rings. Speed pro cam duel pattern cam. Ported chevy heads with 2.02 and 1.60 stainless valves. $1365 after tax. Will change cam around for you, and for 100 dollars more will put screw in studs and guide plates. For that price, I got to keep my engine too in case I ever want to go back with the numbers matching block. Desk top dyno sheet supplied showing 327hp at 5500rpm, before I upgraded the cam. They say I should get 350hp. They will do more headwork for a little more money. They stock this engine for $1200. I paid 62.50 for the cam upgrade. Am putting it in in December and will post results if you are interested. 1-800-275-7371. If interested, ask for Herb. Very friendly. Will do just about any combo of engine you want for the right money. Good luck. :cheers: PS He advertises this engine in the misc. of auto trader, sports car edition.
Go talk to Dave Fain at Dave's American Performance Corvette Repair, 2101 Northlake Pkwy, Tucker, GA 30084. 770-934-7011. I've been in there a couple of times and he seems very knowledgeable. Don't Know about prices.
Another guy that specializes in Corvettes is Jim Watson at Performance Concepts, 1166 Webb Gin House Rd, Lawrenceville, GA 30245. I hear he is the Vette guru in Atlanta.
At $1365 for that combination why even look at a crate motor? Bolt up your accessories.. intake, carb, waterpump, powersteering, ac, pulleys, etc go for it? Right? What kind of warranty did Precision offer? The online site only offered 12 months for those versions that were compression tested. Thoughts have also crossed my mind to pull this 195HP motor with 74,000 miles and put it on the side for more horsepower. It seems like the best way to go these days rather than mess with the original matching numbers motor.
At $1365 for that combination why even look at a crate motor? Bolt up your accessories.. intake, carb, waterpump, powersteering, ac, pulleys, etc go for it? Right? What kind of warranty did Precision offer? The online site only offered 12 months for those versions that were compression tested. Thoughts have also crossed my mind to pull this 195HP motor with 74,000 miles and put it on the side for more horsepower. It seems like the best way to go these days rather than mess with the original matching numbers motor.
The warranty was 12 months with some limitations for high performance motors. They gave me a phamphlet, but I have not read all of the details yet. This seemed like an excellent price for a decent motor. It is a balanced assembly, and they fill it with oil and put it on the spin machine before they sent it out. I was looking at rebuilding my L48 for more power, as it won't even spin the tires the way it is. But the L48 is a two bolt main, and with all of the machine work and head work this seemed the best way to go. I did not want to spend 3,000+ either. I will know the results in december. :cheers:
Why mess around with the 70s technology engine. Put in a ZZ4. It has almost twice the power of your L48 and is made to run on what passes for gasoline these days.
The ZZ4 is hardly new technology. It is a carbureted Gen 1 350. He could buy the same cam so as to get the 'new' cam profiles and match the spec of the heads, intake, pistons of the ZZ4 for less. What he won't get is a balanced and blueprinted, warranted factory crate. Or he could do better for the same price.
Roll your sleeves up and dig into that motor. Either rebuild it yourself or buy a replacement and install it yourself. The money you save on labor can be put into engine components and/or accesories. This ain't rocket science.
Roll your sleeves up and dig into that motor. Either rebuild it yourself or buy a replacement and install it yourself. The money you save on labor can be put into engine components and/or accesories. This ain't rocket science.
Nope not rocket science but it's certainly an exercise in meticulousness.
Well if you were planning new cam,intake and heads then the bottom end wouldnt' be that much more. Just take it to a machineshop and have them rebuild the bottom end and then put your cam,intake and heads on.
You will get out only what you put in. Use nice parts, and get what you want. It may take a while but Im sure you will be pleased with the end result. :cheers:
Well I can't afford to rebuild the block AND add all the goodies.
I don't really know how to build the block, or even how to get that hunk out of the car. But even if I decide to rebuild it with machining parts, and getting new pistions, rings, etc- I'm still going to spend almost as much as buying a rebuilt block. Having never done anything like this- and apparently FEELING the results of someone who did it incorrectly, I don't want to do this again anytime soon.
I tried to get Jerry Eller to look at it; drove by twice and left three messages, even spoke to the old skinny guy (Matt?) and left my info, but never heard back from Jerry so I gave up that route.
Is the L48 a two bolt main? No way a 4 bolt would fit?
Is the L48 a two bolt main? No way a 4 bolt would fit?
Not sure what you're asking here. As a rule, L-48s were 2-bolt blocks but there are rumors of exceptions.
As far as "fit" goes, there is no external installation differences between a 2-bolt and 4-bolt block. It merely describes the number of bolts that hold the inner main bearing caps in place. A 2-bolt block can be converted into a 4-bolt block but there are plenty of 400+ HP 2 bolt blocks that have no problems with bearing cap walk, etc.