C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 06:01 PM
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Default Heads only

I have a seasoned speed shop guy suggesting a heads-only modification to my 1981 vette. Says the compression boost and 1.6 rockers will give me a noticeable power increase. No cam break-in to worry about. Has anyone done just heads and been impressed with the upgrade?
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 06:18 PM
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which heads ??
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 09:05 PM
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Not impressed. Noticeable...well yes but not what I ever hoped for
It will help but you need more flow...and a cam to hang the valves open earlier/longer.

What is he trying to sell you?


Last edited by cv67; Jan 24, 2020 at 09:08 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 09:21 PM
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If you already have an aftermarket cam (with relatively low mileage), sure.

What cam do you have now?
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 10:08 PM
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I'd say if you have the L-82 some small chamber heads to boost compression and some 1.6 rockers headers and intake I agree with your shop owner. You will notice a worthwhile improvement.
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 12:51 AM
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OE 81 has deep dish pistons and needs compression ... chambers smaller than 64cc best

these iron 58cc
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...50-1/overview/

or these iron 59cc
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet

or these aluminum 60cc
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...make/chevrolet


Last edited by jackson; Jan 25, 2020 at 12:58 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by foundvettelifeisgood
I have a seasoned speed shop guy suggesting a heads-only modification to my 1981 vette. Says the compression boost and 1.6 rockers will give me a noticeable power increase. No cam break-in to worry about. Has anyone done just heads and been impressed with the upgrade?
What is mileage, condition (smoking, compression readings) and configuration (bone stock L81, cam replaced, carb replaced/tuned) that you currently have.

When I bought my '80, it had 96k miles and the engine was tired and leaking/burning oil. More compression would have just exposed the leaking rings and led to a shortblock refresh. I rebuilt.
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 08:11 AM
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Thanks for all of these replies. It's the stock 81 motor and cam. I've done nice long tube headers and chambered pipes, but they really didn't do a whole lot to help the breathing. I've been debating dropping a fresh 383 crate motor in it, but I'm not too excited about going that far with this car. It's a very clean, honest car, but I've already done a Tremec 5 speed, Borgeson steering, differential rebuild, a/c, carpet and just don't feel like throwing another $7k at it.

Would heads alone get it to rev more freely and higher? The torque is good, but there is not much to gain taking it past 3,500 RPM.

This shop owner wants to drive the car before solidifying his recommendations. Miles are about 75k.

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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by foundvettelifeisgood
Thanks for all of these replies. It's the stock 81 motor and cam. I've done nice long tube headers and chambered pipes, but they really didn't do a whole lot to help the breathing. I've been debating dropping a fresh 383 crate motor in it, but I'm not too excited about going that far with this car. It's a very clean, honest car, but I've already done a Tremec 5 speed, Borgeson steering, differential rebuild, a/c, carpet and just don't feel like throwing another $7k at it.

Would heads alone get it to rev more freely and higher? The torque is good, but there is not much to gain taking it past 3,500 RPM.

This shop owner wants to drive the car before solidifying his recommendations. Miles are about 75k.
A limiting factor to consider is the Electronic carburetor. If your L81 is stock, it has electronic carb control and a box. You need to be able to tune your carb and I've not seen a lot of good press on the L81 carb. It would be a limiter to any gains with just cylinder heads. If it were me, I would go for a Blueprint Engines roller-cammed 355 or 383 longblock and add a carb/intake. They use the 1986-newer block configuration (1-piece rear main seal) so you would have to replace your flywheel and may have to go with a different starter (you would need to verify). You would spend around $4,500 (long block plus carb/intake and flywheel) and that is a lot less than $7,000. That is parts-only and assumes you and friends pull and install the engine.

NOTE: There are other items to replace when you replace the engine including such items as: distributor (complete), ignition wires, motor mounts, water pump, v-belts, and other misc items.

Including link to the BP 355 at Jegs for a reference on the long block price.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Eng...BoC0N8QAvD_BwE

Last edited by TedH; Jan 25, 2020 at 08:33 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 08:48 AM
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I would ditch the carb, distributor, heads and cam. Those special computerized pieces are a substantial bottle neck. You could really wake it up. Need more compression, and a cam to use it.

Those "chambered mufflers" should be suitcase style, not a straight thru chambered pipe style. Those chambered pipe style mufflers are very restrictive and actually hurt breathing.
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TedH
A limiting factor to consider is the Electronic carburetor. If your L81 is stock, it has electronic carb control and a box. You need to be able to tune your carb and I've not seen a lot of good press on the L81 carb. It would be a limiter to any gains with just cylinder heads. If it were me, I would go for a Blueprint Engines roller-cammed 355 or 383 longblock and add a carb/intake. They use the 1986-newer block configuration (1-piece rear main seal) so you would have to replace your flywheel and may have to go with a different starter (you would need to verify). You would spend around $4,500 (long block plus carb/intake and flywheel) and that is a lot less than $7,000. That is parts-only and assumes you and friends pull and install the engine.

NOTE: There are other items to replace when you replace the engine including such items as: distributor (complete), ignition wires, motor mounts, water pump, v-belts, and other misc items.

Including link to the BP 355 at Jegs for a reference on the long block price.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Eng...BoC0N8QAvD_BwE
Thanks Ted. In my experience that $4,500 becomes $7k. LOL!! That's why I started out with the $7k.

Where is the box that talks to the stock carb?
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 10:09 AM
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Sell your current 81 and buy one already modified.
Trust me its a lot cheaper.
You never get your money back on mods.
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Old Jan 26, 2020 | 10:29 AM
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IMO your not going to get you bang for your buck with a heads only swap. If the new heads flow better you’ll see some improvement. If they have smaller chambers you’ll see some improvement, assuming you stay out of detonation.
however their in lies some of the problem. You use a small cam with heads that flow better and have smaller chambers now you’ve increased the dynamic compression perhaps enough to make detonation your new problem. Particularly with the stock dish pistons that have no quench pad on them.

there is no half *** soulutuion without ending up with half *** results.

so to get what you want it is my opinion those pistons need changed as well as heads and cam. Then get you a non-computer controlled q-jet and a non computer controlled HEI. Then you might have something you can have fun with. However it’s gonna cost ya, no way around it to get good results.

otherwise be prepared to be underwhelmed with anything less than a full effort.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 26, 2020 at 10:30 AM.
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