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I am getting my 70 Corvette ready to ship off to be painted. Could someone please send some pictures or a description of how the underside of the hood body color paint should be. Thanks, Ray.
Ray, what are you looking to do with your car's paint? If you are pursuing an original factory look, the NCRS (5th Edition) devotes a couple pages of the manual to under hood paint. Alan's car is spectacular, however, if you are planning to have the car judged, you may want to do a few things differently than is shown these photos, if you want maximum scoring. More importantly, you'll want to do some additional things that are not shown in the photos.
The hood was in place when the under hood blackout was applied, therefore, some blackout paint should be seen on the 2 forward hinges. Higher level judges will look for this.
Blackout on the drip gutter, just forward of the wiper door should show a "soft" break in body/blackout paint. Many of us mask the line at the ends with painter's tape, which gives a hard break from black to body color. In actuality, the line worker at the factory had a hand held mask (cardboard?) that he/she used to stop the blackout from extending past the corner. Accordingly, the line has more of a feathered termination than what masking tape will provide. I've seen cars where the blackout was a straight line, just prior to the corner. I've seen other cars where the blackout was more like a 45* angle in the corner and I've seen one car where one side was straight and the other corner was angled.
In a similar fashion, the bottom side of the hood should show a "soft" break from black to body color below where the weather stripping ends. The same masking practice should be used for maximum duplication to the factory process.
If you are looking to best replicate a factory look (albeit inferior in appearance vs a show look), I strongly recommend you get yourself a copy of the latest NCRS Judging Guide. There are many detailed photos of this area as well as all around the car too. For example, did you know that the door jambs were not polished to a high gloss as was the body? Shiny jambs is an obvious sign of deviation from the factory look.
If you are looking for a truly beautiful specimen, you may not want to replicate the factory look. Just trying to share some of the details here with/for you in hopes it helps.