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The tail housing is custom to provide a mechanical speedometer output.
Nice! I wish I would've done that. I didn't like the price so I went with the Dakota Digital digital to spinning cable converter box. (Still haven't installed it because I have to pull the whole dash out and am dreading that. -I get the engine back in, and then I'll probably pull the dashout while I do noise reduction and insulation installation and new carpet.
Be sure to check the TPS sensor and set it up by checking the voltage or it'll never read 0 or 100% throttle position.
I still don't understand why, but with my bowtie overdrives arched cross member, I needed to put something like 4 washers in between the transmission and the cross member so that my fan didn't grind on the top of the shroud when the engine was exerting a load. It's happy with the spacers, but I just felt like it shouldn't have needed them...
With my TCI EZ-TCU I could setup a toggle switch to switch between "eco mode" and "performance mode" which I believe changes both line pressure and RPM of the shift points.
You can also wire in a 2nd switch for "dyno mode" to lock the TC when you flip it on.
I did both, but I screwed up the "Dyno mode" switch as it does NOT lock the TC. Also need to track that down someday...
Thanks for the posts Newb. I'll keep a watch on the fan height. I guess I should have checked it's position accurately before I took it off and pulled the cross member. I noted in an earlier post that I felt it was so close in any blade position I'd rather take it off than risk it banging into the shroud when dropping the engine down. Where did you put the TCU in the car. I haven't settled on that yet, though I'm leaning toward the stowage compartment as they are big on the late C3's.
I still don't understand why, but with my bowtie overdrives arched cross member, I needed to put something like 4 washers in between the transmission and the cross member so that my fan didn't grind on the top of the shroud when the engine was exerting a load. It's happy with the spacers, but I just felt like it shouldn't have needed them...
Adam
Lets you shim for driveshaft angles. If it was too high there would be no easy way to lower it.
Lets you shim for driveshaft angles. If it was too high there would be no easy way to lower it.
Good to know. I guess that digital level I got for checking half shaft angles will come in for another use. Good thing it's a tough little bugger. Backing up out of the garage after setting the ride height I heard a clunk. Then when I pulled forward I ran over something. Got out to look and there was the Johnson digital level on the ground. It still worked.
When I pulled the cross member and lowered the tranny to better access the lines to tranny fluid cooler, i.e. still bolted to the engine, it came down about 2 to 2.5" at the oil pan before lightening up on the jack. Is that typical?
When I pulled the cross member and lowered the tranny to better access the lines to tranny fluid cooler, i.e. still bolted to the engine, it came down about 2 to 2.5" at the oil pan before lightening up on the jack. Is that typical?
Sounds about the same as mine. I had to limit downward travel though because my HEI distributor was too close to the firewall. I ended up placing a board behind the engine to catch on the firewall before the distributor did. The new engine has a smaller distributor and gave me more travel but I still had to make sure to keep it off of the firewall.
Tonight's update. Got all the bell housing bolts broken free. On the top ones I did come in from below. Lowered the tranny a couple inches, then used a 6" and a 12" extension and a deep six sided 9/16 socket to reduce the risk of rounding. All this was 3/8 drive. The 12" extension was a wobble end. This was OK to take it out. But I may need something a little more dedicated to get bolts back in on the new tranny.
Not out yet, but that's mostly due to not wanting to tackle it until the weekend when I can start early and have all day if things don't go as planned. At this point the TC bolts are out and I just want to clean up all the little doodads that might hang up like the lines to the fluid cooler, vacuum line which I see is clipped to the dip stick tube etc.
A question on this once the tranny's out is should I replace the engine rear seals. I plan to replace or possibly rebuild it in 2 years max and at my present rate of driving I suspect that's under 5,000 miles. But if it's not a big deal, then I figure it wouldn't hurt to do it.
Also, my guess is once detached, the tranny will likely want to tilt forward. I base this on the fact that there's not much of a tail behind the pan which is sitting on the jack plate, but there's plenty of steal and aluminum in front of it. Is that a fair assumption?
Then, the same question for the engine. I have no idea if there's more weight ahead of or behind the motor mounts. Right now alternator and A/C are mounted adding some weight up front. As I haven't requested that SST ship the new tranny yet, the engine will be sitting on the mounts for some time. I do plan to support it.
Last edited by vince vette 2; Apr 29, 2020 at 09:07 AM.
2-piece rear seal isn't real simple (have to pull the oil pan and the rear main cap and then coax the old top half of the seal out before coaxing the new half in) and it can be done without removing the transmission so I wouldn't bother.
The transmission is front heavy, but if you are supporting it up to the front of the pan then it stay level on the jack.
The engine wants to tilt back. You need to support it. It doesn't take much.
Not out yet, but that's mostly due to not wanting to tackle it until the weekend when I can start early and have all day if things don't go as planned. At this point the TC bolts are out and I just want to clean up all the little doodads that might hang up like the lines to the fluid cooler, vacuum line which I see is clipped to the dip stick tube etc.
A question on this once the tranny's out is should I replace the engine rear seals. I plan to replace or possibly rebuild it in 2 years max and at my present rate of driving I suspect that's under 5,000 miles. But if it's not a big deal, then I figure it wouldn't hurt to do it.
Also, my guess is once detached, the tranny will likely want to tilt forward. I base this on the fact that there's not much of a tail behind the pan which is sitting on the jack plate, but there's plenty of steal and aluminum in front of it. Is that a fair assumption?
Then, the same question for the engine. I have no idea if there's more weight ahead of or behind the motor mounts. Right now alternator and A/C are mounted adding some weight up front. As I haven't requested that SST ship the new tranny yet, the engine will be sitting on the mounts for some time. I do plan to support it.
I'll let those with more experience in the matter advise you about the engine seals.
Yes the tranny may try to tilt forward. I used a ratchet strap and strapped mine tight to the jack and had no issues. I had to use the tilt lever on my jack to tilt it very far forward so the bell housing would be down far enough to clear as I removed it from under the car. Still had no issues.
You'll need to support the engine at the rear before you pull the transmission. It can drop enough to hit the firewall otherwise.
I decided to read up a little on the seals. I didn't realize the pan needed to come off for starters and maybe the starter. Not difficult, but more stuff. Then if I screw up getting the seals in I'll have a severe leak. Right now it's just a nuisance. I'm now leaning against doing it given the short time I plan before the engine is pulled.
I have a couple rachet straps under the car already waiting to be put in place. Guess I'll also get something ready to go under the oil pan to get the engine into a close to normal position to minimize the load on the mounts while I'm working on all the ins and outs of installing the new tranny.
A ratchet strap hooked to the frame on both sides and looped under the oil pan is enough to hold the engine. Or, you can setup some blocks and a bottle jack or similar to hold it. The strap isn't much help if trying to raise or lower the engine a bit when installing the new transmission.
OK, ready to pull the trigger, but just for safety's sake, here's a photo of the setup. Any last minute "what are you crazy" thoughts. Note, the strap in the back is tight. It's just the angle that makes it look loose.The 2x4's in the back are currently supporting the tail of the tranny under the rear bushing mount. My plan is to move them up front under the oil pan after I lower the tranny but before pulling the bell housing bolts.
Last edited by vince vette 2; May 2, 2020 at 10:36 AM.
OK, ready to pull the trigger, but just for safety's sake, here's a photo of the setup. Any last minute "what are you crazy" thoughts. Note, the strap in the back is tight. It's just the angle that makes it look loose.The 2x4's in the back are currently supporting the tail of the tranny under the rear bushing mount. My plan is to move them up front under the oil pan after I lower the tranny but before pulling the bell housing bolts.
Looks about the same as what I did. Hope it comes out easy for you. One thing to watch out for is to make sure the shift cable doesn't catch and hold up one side of the tranny as you're coming down. Might tie it back out of the way.
Looks about the same as what I did. Hope it comes out easy for you. One thing to watch out for is to make sure the shift cable doesn't catch and hold up one side of the tranny as you're coming down. Might tie it back out of the way.
DC
Good point on the cable. It's hangs up constantly. Up to now a minor nuisance. But with a loose tranny .....
And it's out. I do not look forward to getting the 4L60e in. It took me about 4 hours and all I had to do was pull the lower 4 bolts and the dip stick tube. A lot was getting the straps on, getting the engine supported to where I liked it, etc. But even with the 4 bolts already loose getting them out was an ordeal. I have to say though the Harbor Freight Jack did acceptably for the cost.
As for the quick lift, it provides nice height, but once that jack is sitting in the middle it's a pain getting around under there. I don't think I'm exaggerating to say I must have crawled under it and out again 50 times.
And, I now see why some people suggest pulling the starter. I had to keep tilting the tranny up in front to keep from hitting it as I lowered it in stages to back it out. Back up, hit the tunnel. lower it, hit the starter, tilt it up, hit the tunnel. Back it up, hit the tunnel.
Last edited by vince vette 2; May 2, 2020 at 10:57 PM.
And it's out. I do not look forward to getting the 4L60e in.
Good job. You can read my previous comments above for more info but I think one of the main keys to installing the new transmission is to have the engine lowered as much as possible. Even then, I had to creep up on the right angle and height. Basically it involves raising the tranny, adjusting the angle, pulling it slightly toward the engine, rinse and repeat a few times. Having a floor jack supporting the engine might be helpful in the event you need to adjust its height on the fly.
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