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My recently rebuilt 1969 350/350 struggles to start after being warmed up and driven. This after about a 30 minute cruise around town. If I put jumper cables on it, it'll fire up.
I'll note that start up from cold isn't great, but it'll fire after a 10 second cranking. I think that's more related to a fuel issue recently identified with a leak at the tank.
But, any ideas on the warm start issue? Here's a video.
You need to first check all connections to the starter.......especially the grounds.....clean and reinstall.
If you verify clean power to the starter.....and it still does it......buy a new starter.....preferably a small hi torque unit.
I like the CVR 5323.......I will never install another stock starter on a another small or big block as long as I am alive.
Not only does the stock unit weight 25 pounds......it has half the power and is unreliable compared to any new permanent magnet starter.
You need to first check all connections to the starter.......especially the grounds.....clean and reinstall.
If you verify clean power to the starter.....and it still does it......buy a new starter.....preferably a small hi torque unit.
I like the CVR 5323.......I will never install another stock starter on a another small or big block as long as I am alive.
Not only does the stock unit weight 25 pounds......it has half the power and is unreliable compared to any new permanent magnet starter.
Jebby
Great info, thanks Jebby. That thing was a pain in the *** to get in there.
Question, why is the warm start so much harder for the starter?
The "R" in the suffix is for the "R" terminal on your stock starter that allows 12v to the ignition as you turn the key.
These starters are the best I have ever used......on about ten engines and builds now with them and never once needed a shim.....fit perfect (although you may have to "Clock" the unit for headers) and turn the engine over like there is no plugs in it.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Feb 15, 2020 at 07:54 PM.
if you can jump it with jumper cables and it starts, you are effectively adding amps to the starter circuit.
this totally concludes that your system/wires/connections will pass the added amps required to start a hot engine.. you are Adding amps to your starter and then it starts.
you need to permanently add amps to your system, or lower the number of amps your system requires to spin the hot starter.
you do this 2 ways...
1. a bigger battery that has the cranking amps to spin the hot starter/engine. ( how old and how powerful is your battery?)
2. a gear reduction starter that requires less amps to spin than your stock starter.
Sounds like a bad/dirty starter commutator or worn brushes. If you're handy, you might want to pull it apart, if you want to keep the original starter.
OP
The hi-$ starters are great and light.
FWIW, later model GM are OE equipped w/ PMGR starters which are even lighter (approx 83% of hi-$) and are proven Very reliable & Very powerful as well. Form, Fit, Function A1.
And often cost about 34% of hi-$.
With three answers, can recommend retro-fit source & pn.
? Does your 69 still have Points ignition ?
? Is your present starter's bolt pattern Straight across or Staggered ?
? Does your 69 flywheel / flexplate have 153 Teeth or 168 Teeth ?
I had the same problem with my small block 68. Changed the negative (2 gauge) ground between the battery and the frame below it. I bought a 1 gauge cable at Tractor Supply and that solved my problem. Your cable may look ok like mine did, but, if it is old, it has too much resistance and needs to be replaced.