Comp cams break in lube
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 876
Likes: 694
From: Columbus, IN
Comp cams break in lube
I’m in the process of rebuilding my motor and I’m installing a comp xe268. I installed the cam last weekend and put a generous amount of the included red break in lube on it. Came back to it this weekend and a lot of it had dripped onto the crank, but there’s still some on the cam lobes. How long does this stuff last, and how much does it really need on there? Realistically it’s gonna be a month or more before I fire this thing up, and I’m concerned that it’ll be dry by the time I get to that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,930
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From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Agree, moly lube is your friend. I've also heard some guys I'd say are good builders use graphite spray, but I have no hands on with that myself. I'd be curious if anyone has experience with it. Limit cranking have the engine ready to fire instantly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Yes that cam lube is a little disappointing as far as adhesion. When I installed my F.T. cam I bought a couple extra packs of that stuff from Summit. Used those on the lifter bottoms and bores. Then poured a bottle of Comps Break-In lube in the lifter valley, on the pushrods and on the valvesprings the day before firing it up.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 876
Likes: 694
From: Columbus, IN
I’m not done assembling the motor yet so it’s not too late, I’d just be out a timing cover gasket at this point if I have to pull the cam out. I’m trying to do things according to the instructions so if I lose a lobe, I can tell them I did what their instructions told me to do, but I also really don’t want to risk being in that position in the first place. I might call them on Monday and see what they say.
I put one lifter in last weekend to degree the cam and I put a bunch of that stuff on the bottom of the lifter, and most of it was still there when I took it out today, for whatever that’s worth.
I put one lifter in last weekend to degree the cam and I put a bunch of that stuff on the bottom of the lifter, and most of it was still there when I took it out today, for whatever that’s worth.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
suggest do Not use thick lubes/pastes in lifter bores or sides of lifters ... the thick stuff has too much "stiction" and can limit lifters from spinning (as intended) during first minutes of break-in ... it's good on faces/bottoms but not in bores.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
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From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Seen it done a number of times.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Most auto parts stores have moly lube, isky sells some thats good. If the cam went flat comp wont stand behind it anyways...If you dont mind the work put better lube on it. Will it be fine as is probably....that stuff keeps me awake at night haha.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 479
Likes: 93
From: Tennessee
You will be fine as is just make sure you can fire quickly by having it timed as close as possible without a light and make sure the oil pump and fuel system are primed. Also, use a break in oil high in zinc such as Valvoline VR1. When you do get it fired keep the rpms up and don't let it lug.
Last edited by ykf7b0; Feb 16, 2020 at 02:11 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Cool Northern Michigan
I see no need to pull the timing chain cover and start over. When you applied that goop to the cam, did you notice how it would not come off your latex gloves?
You have access to each and every lobe through the lifter bores. Apply some of your goop to lifter bottoms and smear some on the lobes. It will be fine.
Some will be removed setting the valvelash anyway. Can't be helped.
All that break-in goop is flung, removed, scraped and diluted within the first 30 seconds of start-up. As long as the lifter valley is well saturated you are good to go.
Do you plan on priming the oil pump?
You have access to each and every lobe through the lifter bores. Apply some of your goop to lifter bottoms and smear some on the lobes. It will be fine.
Some will be removed setting the valvelash anyway. Can't be helped.
All that break-in goop is flung, removed, scraped and diluted within the first 30 seconds of start-up. As long as the lifter valley is well saturated you are good to go.
Do you plan on priming the oil pump?
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,351
Likes: 1,579
From: los altos hills california
Why wouldn't you ask Comp Cams this question first? You would be on record with them as to any warranty issues. Just FYI they honored a flattened lobe on my cam.
I can't say what was on my GM Performance motor but it probably sat around for months before I fired it up.
I can't say what was on my GM Performance motor but it probably sat around for months before I fired it up.
Last edited by ignatz; Feb 16, 2020 at 11:50 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 876
Likes: 694
From: Columbus, IN
I'll be using Valvoline VR1 for break in, and will be priming the oil pump before firing it up. That's a good point about how it wouldn't come off the gloves. I made a mess when I put that stuff on there, and while I was able to get the bulk of it wiped up, the last little bit was pretty sticky and was more difficult to wipe up. I just looked up my receipt from when I put in the last cam, and it turns out I used the same stuff on that one, but it only sat for a week before I started it up. That cam looked great when I pulled it out.
As for why I didn't ask Comp Cams first, I'm impatient and this is my first engine rebuild and I'm a bit anxious about screwing it up, and keep thinking about all the "what ifs." I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow and see what they say and report back.
As for why I didn't ask Comp Cams first, I'm impatient and this is my first engine rebuild and I'm a bit anxious about screwing it up, and keep thinking about all the "what ifs." I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow and see what they say and report back.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,040
Likes: 672
From: FL
Yup. The XE series cam has very quick ramps and is easy to wipe. Wiped an XE262 and XE274 in my engine. Swapped it all for a Crane hyd roller setup which ran great (till I swapped to a the big block).
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
I wiped 3xe flat tappets in a few hundred mi, even a cast XFI roller failed in less than 20k .
All the trick lifters same thing. I wouldnt spend a nickel with that company.
All the trick lifters same thing. I wouldnt spend a nickel with that company.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 479
Likes: 93
From: Tennessee
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 876
Likes: 694
From: Columbus, IN
I called them, they said it'll be fine but he recommended putting a little more on the lobes before I start it. Maybe I'll leave the intake off and set the valve lash right before I drop the engine back in the car so I can pull the lifters out and add more to the bottom of them before I start it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 876
Likes: 694
From: Columbus, IN
Just thought I’d conclude this thread... Last weekend I put the lifters in with a nice big glob of the red stuff on the bottom and got the engine reinstalled. Primed the oil pump last night. Today, it took a little bit of cranking to get it to start, and we had to shut it off once to fix a leak, but the break in went well.
Also, for what it’s worth, I don’t think I mentioned this before but I did pay extra to get this cam nitrided.
Also, for what it’s worth, I don’t think I mentioned this before but I did pay extra to get this cam nitrided.
Last edited by rgwoehr; Mar 8, 2020 at 06:35 PM.
