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LOL. In fact they do have lights, never saw them work. they typically have a timer outside letting you keep the light on for few minutes (If it actually hasn't disabled). I wish I could do that.
71bbc
DISREGARD THIS REPORT. I AM ONLY KEEPING IT HERE FOR HISTORICAL PURPOSES. THIS METER WILL NOT READ BELOW 0.1 Amp.....
Here you go. 0.3 amps. Not the most accurate metering system but it works. The good thing about it is that it will read up to 30 amps so I cycled it through turning on the interior lights, all the lights, the radio, and even the electric fuel pump. I suspect it may be slightly lower than 0.3 amps, but the accuracy this meter is limited to 0.X amps.
I need to order a fuse for my multimeter so I couldn't cross check it. I'd forgotten about that so it's a good thing.... well, I suspect the fuse.
Originally Posted by 71bbc
That would be very nice of you. See how much yours drains while sitting. None of my aftermarket stuff use anything while off. I checked it. As mentioned, 0.025 for clock and some 0.022 amps in factory wiring. possibly radio.Thanks
Last edited by carriljc; Feb 26, 2020 at 12:24 AM.
Interesting...most of the searches and videos I found came out with values between 25 and 50 ma. I am beginning to suspect the issue here is the time that it is in storage just being too long and the low voltages killing the batteries.
Last edited by Redvette2; Feb 26, 2020 at 03:22 AM.
I suspect that anything much higher than 0.3 amps is too much, and anything near 0.5 amps is way too much.
NOTE: I need to get another reading with my multimeter for parasitic amp draw....
I can easily go 4-6 weeks without starting my car and it will start right up.
I suggest disconnecting that clock and see how it does. Make sure that the battery gets a full charge, disconnect the clock, and then see how it does. I gather that you've verified that the alternator is performing well and the battery is in good shape.
I did not see you respond to the question as whether than one-wire alternator charges at idle. Does it? I would not use a one-wire alternator; so easy to use a GM CS-144 nowadays (in 200 amp configuration if you want) and the perform wonderfully at idle without having to do any extraneous rev'ing.
Originally Posted by Redvette2
Interesting...all most of the searches and videos I found came out with values between 25 and 50 ma. I am beginning to suspect the issue here is the time that it is in storage just being too long and the low voltages killing the batteries.
Last edited by carriljc; Feb 26, 2020 at 12:25 AM.
Reason: fixed disconnect the clock, not the battery
71bbc
Here you go. 0.3 amps. Not the most accurate metering system but it works. The good thing about it is that it will read up to 30 amps so I cycled it through turning on the interior lights, all the lights, the radio, and even the electric fuel pump. I suspect it may be slightly lower than 0.3 amps, but the accuracy this meter is limited to 0.X amps.
I need to order a fuse for my multimeter so I couldn't cross check it. I'd forgotten about that so it's a good thing.... well, I suspect the fuse.
Thank you so much for performing this. Now, if your setup reads correctly, you have 0.3 Amps draw which is relatively a big number. Mine is 0.047 Amps (not 0.47 Amps) which is about 1/6 of yours. Can't really tell how that battery can possibly turn your engine after few weeks of sitting with that much of drain...Anyway, I picked up a yellow top Optima and see how it goes. These suppose to have better resistance against being discharged for long times.
Good point. I don't think that meter is accurate down low. I'll have to get another reading when I get my multimeter working. I couldn't get this thing to read anything until I started some loads and then I would turn them off and it would settle here before it went to zero.
Sorry about that.
At least I found out my contraption works to read fuel pump amps and whatnot..... I ordered some fuses for my multimeter.
Last edited by carriljc; Feb 26, 2020 at 12:26 AM.
I suspect that anything much higher than 0.3 amps is too much, and anything near 0.5 amps is way too much. I can easily go 4-6 weeks without starting my car and it will start right up.
I suggest disconnecting that clock and see how it does. Make sure that the battery gets a full charge, disconnect the clock, and then see how it does. I gather that you've verified that the alternator is performing well and the battery is in good shape.
I did not see you respond to the question as whether than one-wire alternator charges at idle. Does it? I would not use a one-wire alternator; so easy to use a GM CS-144 nowadays (in 200 amp configuration if you want) and the perform wonderfully at idle without having to do any extraneous rev'ing.
Alternator Came with test certificate showing it gives 140 Amps @ 750RPM. Also my ammeter reads about 35 Amps immediately after startup. I confirmed with my Clamp meter also. Looks like battery is no longer accepting any charge.
Just to close the loop. Got the ammeter on my multi-meter working. My car reads 4.98 mA with everything secured. I do have EZ-EFI and a stereo with a memory power lead. I can easily start it after a month of not using it. Per google conversion 4.98 mA = 0.00498 Amps
And, NO, I do not have a clock sucking up amps while secured. But nevertheless, even if I had a Clock using .025 amps while car is off, then the total load would still be less than .030 amps (0.02998) amps total.
Last edited by carriljc; Apr 5, 2020 at 01:58 PM.
Reason: add total amps calculated with a .025 clock if it existed
To me, it's not cranking amps that are the most important. It's the reserve capacity minutes that matter. If you have a charging system failure, it could be the difference between making it home or not. IMHO
Thank y'all for your input. I ended up returning Costco Interstate and got a god deal from my vendor on a yellow top Optima. I've never seen this motor turns like this. 950 CCA in 32 degree cold morning cranked my 10.5:1 496 beautifully. I started driving it more anyway especially gas price dropping even more.
SPSFirstClass!92026!US!-1
