Battery to be replaced again...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 71
Likes: 8
From: Centreville, VA
Battery to be replaced again...
Dealing with this "battery" thing ever since I restored this car. 71 BB 489 10.8 CR. Basically, I've been replacing my battery (interstate MT-78, 800CCA) every year, good thing, I warranty it each time so I don't really pay anything (Costco). Now, I understand I don't drive this "enough" probably (less than maybe 1000 miles a year). Was thinking maybe I have too much parasitic draw as it sits, mostly because of factory clock running inside all time. Turned out I have total of 0.047 amp draw (0.025 amp is being used by clock itself) which seems fair to me? I saw they sell "quartz" movement for these, does it really help?How much those will draw? Car is sitting in a storage and there's no power to plug anything like a battery maintainer or such. Prefer not to disconnect positive terminal since all radio adjustments will gone. What you guys think. Have no problem buying a red top optima AGM or something if it really helps, but read some bad reviews about them also. This thing need some serious cranking amps to wake up..Please input.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 486
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
What was the voltage left on the battery when it was taken out?...if it had run down to under 10V that can damage the battery especially if it has been sitting at that voltage for awhile. My car can sit for weeks and starts OK but if you are going months the issue maybe your load draw (plus internal battery self discharge over time). If this is the case a battery maintainer would help. Maybe solar one since you do not have AC power in the storage area.
Also you might want to check the charging voltage out of the alternator when the car is running...either at the battery or at the alternator output as overcharging can also damage batteries. Something over 15V or more over time is starting to get too high. I use one of those cheap cigarette lighter plug in voltmeters to monitor my battery voltage. You just can't leave it in continuously but it is real easy to plug it in and out to check what is going on.
Whatever is going on, using a different type battery likely would not help, but using a bigger capacity battery may stave off the issue longer.
Also you might want to check the charging voltage out of the alternator when the car is running...either at the battery or at the alternator output as overcharging can also damage batteries. Something over 15V or more over time is starting to get too high. I use one of those cheap cigarette lighter plug in voltmeters to monitor my battery voltage. You just can't leave it in continuously but it is real easy to plug it in and out to check what is going on.
Whatever is going on, using a different type battery likely would not help, but using a bigger capacity battery may stave off the issue longer.
Last edited by Redvette2; Feb 24, 2020 at 04:20 PM. Reason: More info
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,936
Likes: 848
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I only use AGM batteries, they are a little different in a couple of ways if they drain down.battery tender has a solar powered unit that may be the ticket for you.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,944
Likes: 4,504
From: Virginia
Good call on Costco. 
I have a battery disconnect on the negative terminal. If I know I won't be driving the car that week, I unscrew it. My 79 sat for 6 months like this, then fired up on the first try.
I have a battery disconnect on the negative terminal. If I know I won't be driving the car that week, I unscrew it. My 79 sat for 6 months like this, then fired up on the first try.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 225
I have optima batteries, and they pretty good. Regardless, whatever battery you decide to get, you should hook up a charger once a month, for about a couple of hours. Leaving a battery without some kind of activity is not good, as you have found out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,740
Likes: 1,383
Nah. Sounds like you have a problem. I won't start mine for a couple of months and it will still crank and start. Find your suspected parasitic draw. If you don't have a higher range ammeter then you can probably make one for testing from harbor freight tools..... Let me see if I can find the link.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,740
Likes: 1,383
Here. Make yourself one of these and then go check and see if you have a parasitic draw: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1598493775
A regular multimeter works as long as you don't have too big of a draw, but you may blow some meter fuses since they're really low range for amps. Anyway, take a look. Changing a battery every year is WAY off-normal.
I've had several optima batteries. Not worth it. Just get a regular battery -- I quit struggling and just get my batteries at walmart of the past decade or so. Your situation does not sound like battery issue.
Your amp draw is a little high even if you eliminated the clock. For that matter disconnect the clock and find the other .022 amp draw. That total is a bit too high.
A regular multimeter works as long as you don't have too big of a draw, but you may blow some meter fuses since they're really low range for amps. Anyway, take a look. Changing a battery every year is WAY off-normal.
I've had several optima batteries. Not worth it. Just get a regular battery -- I quit struggling and just get my batteries at walmart of the past decade or so. Your situation does not sound like battery issue.
Your amp draw is a little high even if you eliminated the clock. For that matter disconnect the clock and find the other .022 amp draw. That total is a bit too high.
Last edited by carriljc; Feb 25, 2020 at 11:22 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 225
Dealing with this "battery" thing ever since I restored this car. 71 BB 489 10.8 CR. Basically, I've been replacing my battery (interstate MT-78, 800CCA) every year, good thing, I warranty it each time so I don't really pay anything (Costco). Now, I understand I don't drive this "enough" probably (less than maybe 1000 miles a year). Was thinking maybe I have too much parasitic draw as it sits, mostly because of factory clock running inside all time. Turned out I have total of 0.047 amp draw (0.025 amp is being used by clock itself) which seems fair to me? I saw they sell "quartz" movement for these, does it really help?How much those will draw? Car is sitting in a storage and there's no power to plug anything like a battery maintainer or such. Prefer not to disconnect positive terminal since all radio adjustments will gone. What you guys think. Have no problem buying a red top optima AGM or something if it really helps, but read some bad reviews about them also. This thing need some serious cranking amps to wake up..Please input.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 1,232
From: PHX AZ
agreement
The key here is the battery disconnect.....for your safety too...any electrical short can be nipped in the bud IMMEDIATELY. The 'double price' for an Optima Yellowtop is WORTH EVERY PENNY. Here in AZ batteries last a VERY short time....a battery is a chemical reaction....when the temperature is 50% higher than the rest of the country, the battery life down here (for a lead-acid/regular) is 2 years. I got 7 years out of the last Optima Yellow-top.
Good luck! Unkahal
Last edited by L-46man; Feb 24, 2020 at 11:57 AM.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
I have a blade style disconnect on the positive post......I am pretty religious about it because I don't want anything hooked to the battery if I am out of town......using the cheapest O'Reiley battery available at 550 CCA and it powers a CVR starter.......expensive batteries are, to me, a waste of money and all that extra CCA is never needed unless your system is compromised in some way.
Jebby
Jebby
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 486
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Dealing with this "battery" thing ever since I restored this car. 71 BB 489 10.8 CR. Basically, I've been replacing my battery (interstate MT-78, 800CCA) every year, good thing, I warranty it each time so I don't really pay anything (Costco). Now, I understand I don't drive this "enough" probably (less than maybe 1000 miles a year). Was thinking maybe I have too much parasitic draw as it sits, mostly because of factory clock running inside all time. Turned out I have total of 0.047 amp draw (0.025 amp is being used by clock itself) which seems fair to me? I saw they sell "quartz" movement for these, does it really help?How much those will draw? Car is sitting in a storage and there's no power to plug anything like a battery maintainer or such. Prefer not to disconnect positive terminal since all radio adjustments will gone. What you guys think. Have no problem buying a red top optima AGM or something if it really helps, but read some bad reviews about them also. This thing need some serious cranking amps to wake up..Please input.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 225
Since you are concerned with losing your radio presets, it sounds like you have an aftermarket radio and perhaps other equipment which is likely the additional .022 amp draw. If the clock is already using .025 amps, it isn't much of an increase to the total .047 amps. This total is less than 1/20th of an amp which does not seem too high or indicating a serious problem.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
If it sits a lot dont waste your $ on an optima it wont be any different.
$59 walmart batteries do just fine....bought one in a pinch as a temp and was so pleased with it bought another for the DD. No more pricy ones for me.
$59 walmart batteries do just fine....bought one in a pinch as a temp and was so pleased with it bought another for the DD. No more pricy ones for me.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 71
Likes: 8
From: Centreville, VA
Thank you all people for input. How did I measure the draw...I put my multi meter set in DC amp in series between + post and terminal, read 0.047 amps (47 mili amps) with the clock and 0.022 Amps (22 mili amps) with clock disconnected. To my knowledge, this is acceptable. I also can read my voltage (Holley Fuel injection screen) it was like 9 volts (dead). I checked all of my aftermarket equipment ( Sound system, Vintage air, Holley Fuel injection, Electric fan, Etc.) non draw anything individually, whatsoever. Alternator is a 200 amps internally regulated one wire setup with less than 2000 miles on it. I'll test it anyway. I'll check with storage if they let me hang a solar panel outside (will they?) and will exchange that 800CCA side post with a new one or a battery quick disconnect route maybe. I can barely hear anything while driving anyway, so maybe even forget about that radio I guess. What about those Optimas? which one is better?Red or Yellow top?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 225
The yellow top is a deep cycle battery, If you have infrequent use, it might be better. I have a yellow and blue, but only for about 2 years,,,,,no problems.
Auto Zone usually has sales, and they even ship it to you free.
Auto Zone usually has sales, and they even ship it to you free.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
Thank you all people for input. How did I measure the draw...I put my multi meter set in DC amp in series between + post and terminal, read 0.047 amps (47 mili amps) with the clock and 0.022 Amps (22 mili amps) with clock disconnected. To my knowledge, this is acceptable. I also can read my voltage (Holley Fuel injection screen) it was like 9 volts (dead). I checked all of my aftermarket equipment ( Sound system, Vintage air, Holley Fuel injection, Electric fan, Etc.) non draw anything individually, whatsoever. Alternator is a 200 amps internally regulated one wire setup with less than 2000 miles on it. I'll test it anyway. I'll check with storage if they let me hang a solar panel outside (will they?) and will exchange that 800CCA side post with a new one or a battery quick disconnect route maybe. I can barely hear anything while driving anyway, so maybe even forget about that radio I guess. What about those Optimas? which one is better?Red or Yellow top?
Worth a check with your meter and its free!
Jebby
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 486
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Does the storage unit have a light bulb in it....perhaps you could install one of these and run a trickle charger.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Light-B...ss!92026!US!-1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Light-B...ss!92026!US!-1
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,740
Likes: 1,383
Update: See post #29. My car draws about 4.98 mA with everything secured. 4.98 mA is 0.00498 amps (per google conversion).
-------------------------------
I really think that 0.047 amps is too much of an amp draw.
IF you want I can go take a reading on mine. It is working really well right now and the car will start after months of not getting started. I have EZ-EFI, and hot rod a/c, and a 140-amp CS-144 and an MSD-6 box, and and electric fuel pump.... I even have the radio hooked up to the constant source on the fuse block for memory. I mention that so you know that it is not a bare bones unit.
Let me know if you want me to get a baseline amp draw while secured.
Maybe I'm all wet but I could get you a value.
-------------------------------
I really think that 0.047 amps is too much of an amp draw.
IF you want I can go take a reading on mine. It is working really well right now and the car will start after months of not getting started. I have EZ-EFI, and hot rod a/c, and a 140-amp CS-144 and an MSD-6 box, and and electric fuel pump.... I even have the radio hooked up to the constant source on the fuse block for memory. I mention that so you know that it is not a bare bones unit.
Let me know if you want me to get a baseline amp draw while secured.
Maybe I'm all wet but I could get you a value.
Last edited by carriljc; Apr 4, 2020 at 07:26 PM. Reason: added reading from post #29 this thread.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 71
Likes: 8
From: Centreville, VA
I really think that 0.047 amps is too much of an amp draw.
IF you want I can go take a reading on mine. It is working really well right now and the car will start after months of not getting started. I have EZ-EFI, and hot rod a/c, and a 140-amp CS-144 and an MSD-6 box, and and electric fuel pump.... I even have the radio hooked up to the constant source on the fuse block for memory. I mention that so you know that it is not a bare bones unit.
Let me know if you want me to get a baseline amp draw while secured.
Maybe I'm all wet but I could get you a value.
IF you want I can go take a reading on mine. It is working really well right now and the car will start after months of not getting started. I have EZ-EFI, and hot rod a/c, and a 140-amp CS-144 and an MSD-6 box, and and electric fuel pump.... I even have the radio hooked up to the constant source on the fuse block for memory. I mention that so you know that it is not a bare bones unit.
Let me know if you want me to get a baseline amp draw while secured.
Maybe I'm all wet but I could get you a value.