I see pre-bent brake lines for sale at places. I can't seem to find the one for the right front that goes from the frame (connection to the flex hose to the caliper) over the frame and behind the upper control arm. Does anyone know what they call that one? Given all the lines I have seen, I would think they make it. I just can't find a diagram and figure out which one it is.

I think it might be this one.
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...1974-1982.html

Should I get stainless steel? Do you have to have the body off the frame to replace this? The have the control arms off and thought now is the time to do it if I can. The previous owner had an issue with the line and ran a new one in a different path because he couldn't get under the control arm.

 

The line to the front passenger side runs from the proportioning valve, which is mounted on the frame on the driver side about 1 foot below the master cylinder. Running from the prop valve the line goes forward on the frame to the front frame cross member, follows the cross member over to the passenger side, then runs along the passenger side frame back to the bracket where it attaches to the rubber hose to the caliper.

As for stainless vs. plain old steel, if I had it to do again I'd go with regular steel. I had the same brake lines on the car since I bought it 1980 and the rust wasn't too bad.Back when new it was a daily driver and even saw some winter driving. Given that now these cars are out in the rain only if the weather forecast was wrong, steel should be fine. My preference for steel given this is not due to the additional cost for stainless. It's because steel is much easier to make small bends that you'll find you'll need to get the flair nuts properly aligned into the master cylinder, prop valve, and rear splitter.

Onto doing this with the body on, yes it can be done. Two specific difficult areas exist. One is getting access to the self threading bolts on the frame which hold the clips on the line that runs from the proportioning valve back to the rear splitter. You'll need a box wrench with a nice offset. That's not too bad, The real bear is getting this line threaded in because it runs through, not above or below" the center cross member and then must be threaded over the rear cross member. I won't go into the detail but when you try to get the old one out, you'll understand.

I did get the line threaded in, but the fit from the vendor I used sucked. So, I stripped it out and, tho their credit they offered to make new lines using mine as patterns - you'd think they would have already had good patterns. That said, I did not want to deal with getting the long line threaded in again. My solution was was to have that line custom made in two pieces, and after installing them I used a union to join them.

Here's a good thread with some useful information. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...do-i-tell.html

In there you'll see a reference to Inline Tube as a good supplier for lines that fit.

 

Note the image below is from Classic Tube. The red arrow shows the front crossover line.


front crossover line

Another issue, does your car have a cruise control transducer or, at lease did it have one. I found many line providers never got around to providing lines with correct bends to route the lines coming out of the master cylinder around the cruise control transducer and bracket for the later model C3's Most look like the ones in the image below.


master cylinder to prop valve lines for cars without cruise control

These were correct on 68's when there was no such thing as cruise. But when cruise became on option a more complex bend pattern was used. Seems the after market guys didn't get the memo. They can be bent to route around the transducer bracket but it's a pain. And I'm not sure they could even work if the transducer is still installed. I had Classic Tube make new ones for me using my originals as a pattern.

 

should be that one.

1974-1982 Corvette Brake Line Front Crossover Steel

I replaced mine with stainless ones and remember that one being a pain to put on. It should be easier with steel lines and your control arms off.