Stupid Question--starter current draw
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS
St. Jude Contributor
Stupid Question--starter current draw
A little help for the electrically ignorant, please. Took my mini starter to the Autozone & their machine says it's drawing 18volts. That's bad, I'm told. What causes it to do this? Is this a repairable thing or is it junk?
JB
JB
Race Director
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From: Forked River NJ
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (JB)
Your draw should be measured in Amps not volts. How can it pull 18 volts on a 12 volt system. A 12 volt battery can muster up about 13 volts and that is about it. The GM manual says free speed 9 volts and 54-80 amps. Don't know if this helps or not
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Coming home from Luckenbach Texas
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (JB)
What seems to be the problem with your mini-starter?
If there's an issue, take it to an auto electric place. I once had one of those places repair the power tilt motor for my boat. Those Autozone guys are generally weak in this area of knowledge.
If there's an issue, take it to an auto electric place. I once had one of those places repair the power tilt motor for my boat. Those Autozone guys are generally weak in this area of knowledge.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (page62)
What seems to be the problem with your mini-starter?
JB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Coming home from Luckenbach Texas
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (JB)
Try the "plug 'n play" approach. Plug it into your car (i.e., install it) and see if it works. Those guys at Autozone don't even know what the word "buggered" means (or "bollocks" for that matter) :lol:
Race Director
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From: San Jose CA
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (JB)
The potential difference, or voltage, is a product of current and resistance. If it's somehow letting too much current run through, then the potential difference would be very high and the battery would not have enough voltage to juice up the starter. If it is in fact pushing 18 volts, my assumption would be that it's bad. I don't know what would cause the increase in current(or the increase in resistance, for that matter), but were you having problems with the starter not working before? (Why is it off the car?)
-Steve
PS V=iR, where V = voltage, i = current in amps, and R = resistance in ohms.
-Steve
PS V=iR, where V = voltage, i = current in amps, and R = resistance in ohms.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (Pacin'California)
Steve --it's off the car 'cause it was never on the car. Garage sale purchase. Thanks for the explanation--that makes it seem a little more reasonable. I think I will run it by another shop and see what they can tell me.
Page --c'mon now, you know better than that! I'm way, way too lazy to stick the thing in there just on the chance it might work. :D
JB
[Modified by JB, 7:49 AM 11/21/2002]
Page --c'mon now, you know better than that! I'm way, way too lazy to stick the thing in there just on the chance it might work. :D
JB
[Modified by JB, 7:49 AM 11/21/2002]
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: NorCal
Re: Stupid Question--starter current draw (JB)
In the real world (our shop), with a VAT machine hooked up (Volt-Amp Tester) we typically a see 130 - 200 amp draw @ 10.5 volts under load - i.e. engine cranking. On the floor (free spin - no load) I'm guessing anything over 80 amps or so would be too much.
You need to find a shop or parts guy that has an amp clamp (typically clips over the positive cable) on his equipment so you can measure both amps and volts simultaneously.
Basically, with a gear reduction starter, if the solenoid engages properly and the thing spins free, try it.
If you do change it out, KEEP THE OLD ONE!, especially if it's original.
Hans
You need to find a shop or parts guy that has an amp clamp (typically clips over the positive cable) on his equipment so you can measure both amps and volts simultaneously.
Basically, with a gear reduction starter, if the solenoid engages properly and the thing spins free, try it.
If you do change it out, KEEP THE OLD ONE!, especially if it's original.
Hans
