Oil pan/Windage tray question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 667
From: FL
Oil pan/Windage tray question
So, working on oil pan/PS leaks on the 496 BBC. Current oil pan is the Milodon 31188 stepped sump. I have PS and it barely cleared before I started work.
Now, replaced thin oil pan gasket with new thicker one piece gasket plus new idler arm tightening up steering and now, the stock PS drag link rubs the pan, badly!
Looking my options, the easiest swap would be either Milodon 30950 or 30951 with the winged sumps. Only issue I see with those is no windage tray and I am not comfortable removing main studs to add a tray at this time. Would lack of a windage tray be an issue on a 4.25 stroke street big block (6200 rpm max (more like 5700 shift))? Reason I am looking at those pans is they are same depth as 31188 so no work needed on pickup.
Other option would be to pull the 31188 and clearance it for the drag link. Tried that a little last night and ended up with some nice gouge marks on pan.
Thoughts or ideas appreciated, especially with regards to windage tray for 4.25" stroke street engine.
Now, replaced thin oil pan gasket with new thicker one piece gasket plus new idler arm tightening up steering and now, the stock PS drag link rubs the pan, badly!
Looking my options, the easiest swap would be either Milodon 30950 or 30951 with the winged sumps. Only issue I see with those is no windage tray and I am not comfortable removing main studs to add a tray at this time. Would lack of a windage tray be an issue on a 4.25 stroke street big block (6200 rpm max (more like 5700 shift))? Reason I am looking at those pans is they are same depth as 31188 so no work needed on pickup.
Other option would be to pull the 31188 and clearance it for the drag link. Tried that a little last night and ended up with some nice gouge marks on pan.
Thoughts or ideas appreciated, especially with regards to windage tray for 4.25" stroke street engine.
Last edited by SteveG75; Feb 27, 2020 at 10:42 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 971
Likes: 45
From: Middlesex NJ
I have this on my 509 https://www.moroso.com/catalog/produ...ig-block20403/
I dont have any issues with my manual relay rod converted to borgeson. Lots of room . Seems to indicate room for 4.25" stroke on the site?
Maybe you can call their tech and see if there are any compatibility issues for your build.Steel, Wet Sump, 7 Quart Capacity, 8" Deep
Engine Application: Mark IV style (except Gen V and Gen VI)
Fits: Most chassis except 1962-'67 Chevy II, V8 Vega/Monza and 1955-'57 Chevy
I dont have any issues with my manual relay rod converted to borgeson. Lots of room . Seems to indicate room for 4.25" stroke on the site?
Maybe you can call their tech and see if there are any compatibility issues for your build.Steel, Wet Sump, 7 Quart Capacity, 8" Deep
Engine Application: Mark IV style (except Gen V and Gen VI)
Fits: Most chassis except 1962-'67 Chevy II, V8 Vega/Monza and 1955-'57 Chevy
- Kicked-out sump and crank scraper
- Uni-directional windage screen
- Rear anti-climb baffle
- Trap door baffling for improved oil control
- Accepts up to a 4.25" stroke with steel rods and4.090" stroke with aluminum rods
- Compatible with most starter/flywheel combinations
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 667
From: FL
I have this on my 509 https://www.moroso.com/catalog/produ...ig-block20403/
I dont have any issues with my manual relay rod converted to borgeson. Lots of room . Seems to indicate room for 4.25" stroke on the site?
Maybe you can call their tech and see if there are any compatibility issues for your build.Steel, Wet Sump, 7 Quart Capacity, 8" Deep
Engine Application: Mark IV style (except Gen V and Gen VI)
Fits: Most chassis except 1962-'67 Chevy II, V8 Vega/Monza and 1955-'57 Chevy
I dont have any issues with my manual relay rod converted to borgeson. Lots of room . Seems to indicate room for 4.25" stroke on the site?
Maybe you can call their tech and see if there are any compatibility issues for your build.Steel, Wet Sump, 7 Quart Capacity, 8" Deep
Engine Application: Mark IV style (except Gen V and Gen VI)
Fits: Most chassis except 1962-'67 Chevy II, V8 Vega/Monza and 1955-'57 Chevy
- Kicked-out sump and crank scraper
- Uni-directional windage screen
- Rear anti-climb baffle
- Trap door baffling for improved oil control
- Accepts up to a 4.25" stroke with steel rods and4.090" stroke with aluminum rods
- Compatible with most starter/flywheel combinations
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,027
So, working on oil pan/PS leaks on the 496 BBC. Current oil pan is the Milodon 31188 stepped sump. I have PS and it barely cleared before I started work.
Now, replaced thin oil pan gasket with new thicker one piece gasket plus new idler arm tightening up steering and now, the stock PS drag link rubs the pan, badly!
Looking my options, the easiest swap would be either Milodon 30950 or 30951 with the winged sumps. Only issue I see with those is no windage tray and I am not comfortable removing main studs to add a tray at this time. Would lack of a windage tray be an issue on a 4.25 stroke street big block (6200 rpm max (more like 5700 shift))? Reason I am looking at those pans is they are same depth as 31188 so no work needed on pickup.
Other option would be to pull the 31188 and clearance it for the drag link. Tried that a little last night and ended up with some nice gouge marks on pan.
Thoughts or ideas appreciated, especially with regards to windage tray for 4.25" stroke street engine.
Now, replaced thin oil pan gasket with new thicker one piece gasket plus new idler arm tightening up steering and now, the stock PS drag link rubs the pan, badly!
Looking my options, the easiest swap would be either Milodon 30950 or 30951 with the winged sumps. Only issue I see with those is no windage tray and I am not comfortable removing main studs to add a tray at this time. Would lack of a windage tray be an issue on a 4.25 stroke street big block (6200 rpm max (more like 5700 shift))? Reason I am looking at those pans is they are same depth as 31188 so no work needed on pickup.
Other option would be to pull the 31188 and clearance it for the drag link. Tried that a little last night and ended up with some nice gouge marks on pan.
Thoughts or ideas appreciated, especially with regards to windage tray for 4.25" stroke street engine.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,093
Likes: 4,017
From: New Braunfels Texas
If you are not running the Nevada Silver State challenge then not having a windage tray will not be a problem on the street........for sustained High RPM running.....a tray not only reduces parasitic loss....but helps with oil control at the bottom of the cylinders and cam......and keeps it somewhat draining back dripping straight down. I had the pleasure of witnessing this on a windowed pan with a 604 Big Chief wet sump mounted to a Spintron......unitl you have seen this happen at different RPM's....the concept of oil control inside a wet sump pan might be way off to some......
Another Fun Tip: Do NOT break in a flat tappet cam with a windage tray installed......the lack of oil spraying straight up is a problem....your new cam depends on this spray immediately after start up.......the variance in RPM that everyone talks about is for ONE reason, at different RPM's.....the oil "fan" is shaped differently....and this ensures the oil is getting everywhere on the bottom of the lifters.
Jebby
Another Fun Tip: Do NOT break in a flat tappet cam with a windage tray installed......the lack of oil spraying straight up is a problem....your new cam depends on this spray immediately after start up.......the variance in RPM that everyone talks about is for ONE reason, at different RPM's.....the oil "fan" is shaped differently....and this ensures the oil is getting everywhere on the bottom of the lifters.
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
OP SG75
? Perhaps pull pan ... and take to a nearby sheet metal or race fab shop ... and have a relief cut-in and welded ?
Likely a good welder can make quick work of it.
? Perhaps pull pan ... and take to a nearby sheet metal or race fab shop ... and have a relief cut-in and welded ?
Likely a good welder can make quick work of it.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 667
From: FL
) times but that will probably be the plan. I think a lot of the clearance issue has to do with the new idler arm (Moog). The pan to relay rod is better on the driver's side than the passenger side. I don't want to clearance too much since that will inhibit oil flow back to the sump. The pan is very flat.
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Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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So is it hitting on the " bolt hole bumps" on the center link or is it hitting the sides at full lock? I have manual steering though.
I run that pan on mine. It's close but doesn't hit. I think I may have ground down the tops of the "bumps" a little just for fun...but nothing radical.
I wouldn't change the pan. a 4.25' stroke needs a good pan that works if you're going to spin it. That Milodon flat works and I'd do whatever needed to be done to make it work. If you had to heat and bend the pitman arm and idler arm downward a little it wouldn't be the end of the world. Street rod guys do it all the time.
There's also a fabricated drag link out there that might help. I was thinking it was Guldstrand maybe?
JIM
I run that pan on mine. It's close but doesn't hit. I think I may have ground down the tops of the "bumps" a little just for fun...but nothing radical.
I wouldn't change the pan. a 4.25' stroke needs a good pan that works if you're going to spin it. That Milodon flat works and I'd do whatever needed to be done to make it work. If you had to heat and bend the pitman arm and idler arm downward a little it wouldn't be the end of the world. Street rod guys do it all the time.
There's also a fabricated drag link out there that might help. I was thinking it was Guldstrand maybe?
JIM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 667
From: FL
So is it hitting on the " bolt hole bumps" on the center link or is it hitting the sides at full lock? I have manual steering though.
I run that pan on mine. It's close but doesn't hit. I think I may have ground down the tops of the "bumps" a little just for fun...but nothing radical.
I wouldn't change the pan. a 4.25' stroke needs a good pan that works if you're going to spin it. That Milodon flat works and I'd do whatever needed to be done to make it work. If you had to heat and bend the pitman arm and idler arm downward a little it wouldn't be the end of the world. Street rod guys do it all the time.
There's also a fabricated drag link out there that might help. I was thinking it was Guldstrand maybe?
JIM
I run that pan on mine. It's close but doesn't hit. I think I may have ground down the tops of the "bumps" a little just for fun...but nothing radical.
I wouldn't change the pan. a 4.25' stroke needs a good pan that works if you're going to spin it. That Milodon flat works and I'd do whatever needed to be done to make it work. If you had to heat and bend the pitman arm and idler arm downward a little it wouldn't be the end of the world. Street rod guys do it all the time.
There's also a fabricated drag link out there that might help. I was thinking it was Guldstrand maybe?
JIM
I pulled the pan again last night and am going to go back to the old reliable FelPro gasket (thinner than the one piece). I also heated and tapped the pan a little where the PS bump hits. I think it will be enough.
What was supposed to be a quick gasket swap and PS rebuild has turned into a major PITA with a full PS rebuild, new idler arm, and new tie rods.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: FL
I think we are in business. Flattened the rib in pan right where the link hits. Also dented the pan just a little. Relay rod has already been trimmed a bit. Thinner gaskets on order.
Big thing. Replaced my 11 year old poly motor mounts with some solids I had in garage. Picked up almost 1/16" of an inch. Will just have to see how bad the noise/vibration is.
Big thing. Replaced my 11 year old poly motor mounts with some solids I had in garage. Picked up almost 1/16" of an inch. Will just have to see how bad the noise/vibration is.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
They also make motor mount spacer plates or you could even install washers under the mounts to gain another 1/8" or more.
JIM
JIM
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 133
Likes: 35
I am also having this problem of the steering ram scraping the bottom of the pan on my 65 big block since replacing oil pan gasket. I've thought about slightly heating and tapping in a little dimple like you mentioned. The mechanic is hesitant since he isn't sure how much clearance there is between the pan and the crankshaft. How much clearance is there? The rub is fairly slight so it shouldn't take much.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,093
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From: New Braunfels Texas