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There are tons of comments on this forum and throughout the internet regarding engine mounts for small block Chevys.
Opinions are all over the place but there seems to be some consensus about each of the three types:
Rubber mounts are prone to separation when paired with a high torque engine.
Poly mounts are subject to heat damage and even melting in our C3 cars, especially when headers are involved.
Solid mounts tend to transmit noise and vibration throughout the car.
It seems the best thing to do might be a set of quality rubber mounts paired with some type of torque limiter. But that begs two questions:
1) Who makes the best rubber mounts?
2) Is there an aftermarket part or an easily fabbed solution for a torque limiter to use in conjunction with the rubber mounts on our C3s?
I'm in the process of an engine swap on my '73. The new 383 stroker engine will come with a minimum of 440 ft-lbs of torque and possibly as much as 470 ft-lbs. This is going to be a cruiser and I don't intend to race the car but there will be some spirited driving and possibly a run or two at the drag strip to see what it will do. Solid mounts seem overkill for my situation and I know I won't like it if I experience any noise and vibration.
If the engine is tuned and balanced properly.......solid mounts will give you zero vibration.......I use the solid mounts and a Urethane trans mount.
Another benefit of solid mounts is it gives you more room in that area.....for stuff like the back of the P/S pump and Fuel pump on the other side.....
And if you still are not convinced.....run a solid on the drivers side and rubber on the passenger side.....best of both worlds.
I'll be running solid mounts with my 496 after I talked with the techs at Energy Suspension about their polyurethane mounts and the issues with heat effecting them.
They told me running the solid motor mount with a polyurethane transmission mount would be the best way to go and I should have no vibration.
There are tons of comments on this forum and throughout the internet regarding engine mounts for small block Chevys.
Opinions are all over the place but there seems to be some consensus about each of the three types:
Rubber mounts are prone to separation when paired with a high torque engine.
Poly mounts are subject to heat damage and even melting in our C3 cars, especially when headers are involved.
Solid mounts tend to transmit noise and vibration throughout the car.
It seems the best thing to do might be a set of quality rubber mounts paired with some type of torque limiter. But that begs two questions:
1) Who makes the best rubber mounts?
2) Is there an aftermarket part or an easily fabbed solution for a torque limiter to use in conjunction with the rubber mounts on our C3s?
I'm in the process of an engine swap on my '73. The new 383 stroker engine will come with a minimum of 440 ft-lbs of torque and possibly as much as 470 ft-lbs. This is going to be a cruiser and I don't intend to race the car but there will be some spirited driving and possibly a run or two at the drag strip to see what it will do. Solid mounts seem overkill for my situation and I know I won't like it if I experience any noise and vibration.
Solid mounts replaced my failed rubber ones. I can't hear anything over the headers, or feel any vibration over the stiff suspension. I would think that with a new engine, it wouldn't be a problem at all.
Thanks for this link. These locking style mounts from CC might be worth trying. At least if the rubber separated, the locking tab would keep things together and prevent contact with the underside of the hood. And, they look much stronger than the parts store mounts I looked at the other day. This might be Plan A with Plan B being the solid mounts.
Sounds like the C3 folks are having success with the solid mounts. That's good to know.
So, no one is running some type of torque limiter?
Thanks for this link. These locking style mounts from CC might be worth trying. At least if the rubber separated, the locking tab would keep things together and prevent contact with the underside of the hood. And, they look much stronger than the parts store mounts I looked at the other day. This might be Plan A with Plan B being the solid mounts.
Sounds like the C3 folks are having success with the solid mounts. That's good to know.
So, no one is running some type of torque limiter?
DC
Pioneer pn 602285 is locking rubber motor mount
Pioneer pn 622378 is rubber trans mount
either can be had for little money ... shop.
Back in the day, some guys would weld one end of a chain to the drivers side of the frame and bolt the other end to the engine block or head to act as a torque limiter.
Solid motor mounts and locking devices built into the rubber mounts replaced this method, as does running a solid mount on the drivers side and a rubber or poly mount on the passenger side.
New technology; kind of like Wilwood brakes replacing Fred Flinstones method for stopping his family sedan.
If your not old enough to know who Fred Flinstone, is then I apologize.
Thanks for this link. These locking style mounts from CC might be worth trying. At least if the rubber separated, the locking tab would keep things together and prevent contact with the underside of the hood. And, they look much stronger than the parts store mounts I looked at the other day. This might be Plan A with Plan B being the solid mounts.
Sounds like the C3 folks are having success with the solid mounts. That's good to know.
So, no one is running some type of torque limiter?
DC
A torque limiter is not needed , long ago before solid mounts people used chain or cable to limit the twisting. And usually all they were doing was ignoring a broken motor mount . Use solid mounts or the safety mount .. Keep it simple .
Some of the older people may remember one of the largest GM automotive recalls in history: Broken Engine Mounts.
GM Corp had customers bring their Impalas, Novas, Chevelles etc with the 283, 327, 305, 307 etc into the dealerships. Instead of labor intensive removal and replacement of a bill-zillion motor mounts, they just installed a cable strap around the drivers-side mount. That kept the twisted engine from jamming the throttle linkage open.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 29, 2020 at 06:21 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I remember when I was akid we bolted a chain to the motor and frame. I was to keep the rubber from breaking in the first place. If It was just tight enough it would prevent the engine from breaking the motor mount and keep the the vibrations down. I later went to solids in all my cars when I replacedd broken mounts. I have all urethane mlunts and was considering trying solids again. Seeing all thses replies pushes me further into solids after my newest engine upgrades.
Some of the older people may remember one of the largest GM automotive recalls in history: Broken Engine Mounts.
GM Corp had customers bring their Impalas, Novas, Chevelles etc with the 283, 327, 305, 307 etc into the dealerships. Instead of labor intensive removal and replacement of a bill-zillion motor mounts, they just installed a cable strap around the drivers-side mount. That kept the twisted engine from jamming the throttle linkage open.
Yep. My 68 SS350 Camaro had one of those on the driver's side, when it was just 2 years old!
Looked like wire braided cable from Home Depot, maybe a 4-6 inch circle, and a weird bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold, loop went around the A-Arm shaft.
The custom molded bracket was the only thing that kept it from looking like bubba did it.
OTOH he probably did 'cause he probably worked at the dealership, I was in a very small town in SC at the time....