I could not find anything in past forums on this and/or I was using the wrong keywords but need your help!

Was idling 69 convertible, 350 (383 actually), 4 speed. When I turned the key to off, it continued to run. Finally stalled it by standing on the brakes and letting the clutch out. Disconnected negative post as only way to shut off the electrical to the panel, etc.

After 50+ years and who knows how many hundreds of thousands of starts, assumed it was in the lockset/key tumblers. Replaced with a new lockset/cylinder but when reconnected the battery, panel lights, etc. came back on as though the key had been turned to the "run" position (which it was not). Still have same problem. Would love to have some suggestions as I'm clueless on where to look now. Thanks in advance.

Jack

 

The starter solenoid could cause that

 

Disconnect the R wire from solenoid to coil+ (which is really non-R) and see if problem goes away.

 

Take a look at all the wiring around the starter. You may need to clean it, tidy it up, and if ok then recover with heat shrink. I had the same problem with my 68 and I only found it by wiggling the bundle near the starter when chasing an abnormally high amp draw when not running.
You can first try wiggling the wire bundle near the starter and check to see if it turns off.

 

Engines only need fuel, fire and compression to run. You can easily rule out Fuel and Compression. For some reason it is not killing the ignition. Without starting it, I would check the coil power. Turn the ignition to the on position. Check power to the coil. Turn the key off and check again. Most likely your switch connector is bad in the column,.

 

When this happened to me it was the diode in the alternator that was bad.

 

Check out this post on Ignition Switch fine tuning.

This post talks about tweaking the position of the switch on the top side of the steering column to ensure that the electrical ignition switch is in sync with the key position. A minor mis-position of the switch one way or the other can prevent starting the engine or the problem you are encountering.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

You guys are so good. Thanks for all the advice. I did move some of the wiring around the solenoid and it solved the problem. Well, that problem.

Now when I try to start it, the warning lights do, indeed come on as they should when I turn the key to the run position, but when I continue turning to the start position, it makes one click then everything goes dark - even the footbox courtesy lights! After a short time where EVERYTHING is off, I can do it again with the same results. Does that sound related or perhaps something in the steering column as Gusto noted? Other thoughts.

Thanks again. Really appreciate the help.

Jack

 

Do you have a handheld voltmeter, what is the current voltage?

 

Yes, will go check. Where to take it ... at the battery terminals? Batt is only month or two old as is starter.

 

That is battery contact, loose connection at big starter lug or ground under car where negative terminal connects to frame. Since you caused it by wiggling starter wires I would remove, clean up, tape up and reinstall all starter wires.

 

Just get under and disassemble and clean up and redo the wiring around the starter.

Do you know how to solder and use heat-shrink?

You need to disconnect your battery meanwhile.

It sounds like you have either Opens or Shorts in that bundle area. After you clean up the wiring, then if everything works fine you can call it good. If NOT then you may have an intermittent fault within the starter and/or solenoid....I had that problem also and it was causing a system drain with system shutdown. That took a while to find. BUT meanwhile disconnect your battery before something bad (like a fire) happens.

 

You had to disconnect the Grd at the battery today. Now everything goes dead like a bad GRD connection. Coincidence? I think not.