Bad cold start 82 Corvette CF
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 32
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Bad cold start 82 Corvette CF
In advance, sorry for my bad english. I´m living in germany an drive an 82 Corvette CF. when the car is cold, the engine does not want to run properly. he shakes and it seems as if he is running on 6 cylinders with 500-600 u/min. after 2-3 minutes when the car Is warm (kick down the gaspanel with 2000-3000 u/min) I switch it off and on again (sometimes 2-3x) and then everything is normal. Does somebody has any idea ? the temperature sensor has already been replaced. could it be the o2 sensor on the cat? I´ve cleaned the IAC but they are not sooty.once the engine is warm I have no more problems, it starts without problems after 1-2 hours and keeps idling perfectly. (900 rpm on P and 6-700 rpm on D). the next day is the same game again
Last edited by Mocse; Apr 8, 2020 at 01:57 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 32
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
P.S. Your idle is too high as well both in PARK and in DRIVE.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Apr 8, 2020 at 07:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2013
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many thanks for the help. I tried an original odb1 adapter but also bridged it. in both I hear a "clack" from the engine compartment, as it should be as soon as A and B are bridged. Unfortunately, the CEL does not light up. But I know 100% that it worked before. It does not light up even when the ignition is switched on. That was the case before, but I only now noticed that she no longer does it. I completely disconnected the battery once today and hope that the ECM will reset. Maybe then it will light up again. If not, I would take off the console in the next step and check the lamp, because this "clack" comes from the engine compartment when bridging. Because of the idle. Because of the idle was a misunderstanding. I have to accelerate manually so that at some point the car will be so warm that the mistake is gone. Normally the idle runs at P = 800-850 rpm and at D = ~ 650 rpm
Last edited by Mocse; Apr 9, 2020 at 01:55 AM.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
Although there is no choke......there is the rich parameter for cold start in open loop from the ECM......in the past I have narrowed it down to two things on TBI or CFI injected cars......Fuel Pressure and Dirty Injectors.
Let me just tell you that these injectors do not like to sit for extended periods of time......and if the fuel pressure is at say 8 or 9 psi.....the car will run but not well.
Having the CEL light out is a blow....but not the end of the world. Check your vacuum to the MAP also.....
Good luck sir,
Jebby
Let me just tell you that these injectors do not like to sit for extended periods of time......and if the fuel pressure is at say 8 or 9 psi.....the car will run but not well.
Having the CEL light out is a blow....but not the end of the world. Check your vacuum to the MAP also.....
Good luck sir,
Jebby
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 1,185
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
many thanks for the help. I tried an original odb1 adapter but also bridged it. in both I hear a "clack" from the engine compartment, as it should be as soon as A and B are bridged. Unfortunately, the CEL does not light up. But I know 100% that it worked before. It does not light up even when the ignition is switched on. That was the case before, but I only now noticed that she no longer does it. I completely disconnected the battery once today and hope that the ECM will reset. Maybe then it will light up again. If not, I would take off the console in the next step and check the lamp, because this "clack" comes from the engine compartment when bridging. Because of the idle. Because of the idle was a misunderstanding. I have to accelerate manually so that at some point the car will be so warm that the mistake is gone. Normally the idle runs at P = 800-850 rpm and at D = ~ 650 rpm
.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Apr 9, 2020 at 06:04 PM.
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Texas
If your going to keep the CFI here is a link for a upgraded ECM. http://www.dynamicefi.com/
Good luck finding a 5550 or 6026 ECM.
Good luck finding a 5550 or 6026 ECM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
If you are going to go with an ECM from Dynamic EFI, PM and I can hook you up with what is needed before going that route. Are you familiar with laptop tuning?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
By itself it is not. But, I have the interface board that would get installed in the new ECM from Dynamic EFI. They install all my boards exclusively. You must be willing to do the laptop tuning if you go this route, no way around it. It isnt that hard, but it does require research and patience.