If someone out there that has successfully replaced bearings and races and bushings on a C3 trailing arm please send me a list of all the tools necessary for success. Thanks

 

Researching the same thing for mine! The vendor sites all have the handy "you might also consider section".

I think there's really three specific ones that are all but required 1) the spindle knock out cover to pound or press the spindle out 2) the outer bearing removal tool to pull the outer bearing off the spindle and 3) the mock up tool to determine the right spacer/shim configuration to limit the play when reassembled. I've also seen in videos online a puller being used to pull the hub off the spindle.

One of them was pretty pricey making it almost not worth doing yourself since the cost of the tools was about half the cost to sent them out and get them back not only with new bearings but the parts sandblasted and re-finished.

 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...C&&FORM=VDRVRV

This was one of the better videos on it I saw

 

Unfortunately, that video isn't the best. It ends up together but clearly he is better at building cars then custom setup. There is a range of tolerance for setting the bearings up a dial indicator used correctly is required- if you want to do the job right.

 

I want to finish this thread by saying I have completed yet another project. The outer bearing was shot. I bought the three tools for about $160 and did the work because this is my hobby. This was a difficult task but I enjoyed most of it. I have no lift or press but I do have time and a desire. I would be happy to answer anyone needing help but not needing discussion about methodology. Thanks

 

That's awesome Steve, Good job!! What did you use to get the spindle out or were you able to knock it out with the knock out tool? I was able to get the hub separated from the trailing arm of mine which is all I really need right now to have it sent for alkaline dip and e-coat but I'd like to get the rest torn down at some point to get the hub cleaned up.

 

I used the spindle knocker to remove the spindle and then used a cutoff wheel to remove the bearing which was bad. The setup tool was essential but just as necessary was the tool to reassemble everything without a press. I only have a 6gallon Bostich compressor which worked fine. I have a 6” vise which is what I presses in the new races with. The video on how to do the setup and measurements for spacers was fantastic. Local shop wanted $588 plus parts. I spent $311 on everything and own the tools. My old beater is now a driver and safe to do so.

 

take any pics? Walk through? Highlights lowlights?
rubber? Poly? Bearing race supplier..
Best video or book?
congratulations on completion

 

sstocker31 utube video was the definition of how to set up the spindles. The kit was from vetteco which had the 3 tools ,Timken bearings and spacers. No pics or video from me. After getting everything close I will get it in for a verification alignment when the pandemic ends.Stay safe everyone.

 

Hi!
I just swapped a LS1 into my 74 Vert. The front suspension was trashed so I replaced all the tie rods, the idler and shocks. Somehow I lost the pitman arm, so I ordered it off eBay. Then the relay rod was bent so bad it hit the oil pan. I had to replace that too! eBay again. I removed the stock power steering and went with a Borgeson low ratio great box. I have left the stock springs in the front so far, my girl sits a little high, I'm not sure if it's just because the LS1 is lighter than the old 350 or something else. I took it to a classic car alignment shop and they said the rear is so bad they won't do it. I need to rebuild my trailing arms, buy adjustable camber rods, and replace the rear gears while I'm at it. I bought 3.73 gears. I have a full blown shop with lifts and a press. I think I can get it all done in a few days to a week. I would love to not spend the money on the specialty tools, as my shop is a BMW performance shop. I won't buy another C3 and I will never sell this one. I don't expect to ever do this again. Will the Vette gods smile upon me and send a generous person my way? I would be happy to pay shipping and a little drinking money for the spindle demo, spindle removal tool, and I think there was another one. Please let me know. I am ordering the rear suspension rebuild kit and trailing arm rebuild kit tonight.
Thank you!

 

I'm getting a clunking sound from the back when I first start to back up. It feels like it could be a u joint grabing but I checked and they all seemed tight. So I guess its the wheel brgs and T arm inspection next. How big of a chore is it to pull the spindle and T arms? If they are bad I would replace or send them out to be done. The only other thing is the center section gears? I dont have the tools to repair myself but if not too difficult I can do the R&R. Do I need any special tools to do that? If so what and were to get them.
Thanks

 

Removing the arm from the car depends on the front bolt through the bushing. If it is not seized to the center of the metal sleeve through the bushing then removing the arms is a lot easier. If the bolt is seized then you can try using a rust breaker like Kroil for a few days otherwise you will have to cut it out. The shock mounts usually are worn at the knurl and sometimes they are seized in the strut rod.

Removing the axle requires driving it out unless it was slip fit or spun in the outer bearing. This job is best done on the bench with the proper tools. Rebuilding them is not as bad as most say but again you need tools and experience.

Removing the diff can be done on jack stands and a harbor freight scissors trans jack. Spare tire tub and exhaust have to come out. 1/2 shafts should be removed and checked, which as that point you might want to replace the joints and rod bushings.