Resetting the dash brake light?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 570
Likes: 65
From: Sebastian,FL
Resetting the dash brake light?
I had a leaking caliper issue over the winter and the subsequent p.i.t.a. brake bleeding dilemma which I searched the forum and posted questions and got good info and advice and now have no more leaks and a pedal that is solid and honestly better than since I’ve owned it. My question is this, the light on the dash, from what I’ve had suggested and searched the valve needs re centered but if this the issue why would I be able to bleed all 4 wheels. What I read suggested that if the valve senses a imbalance it shuts off the affected circuit and prevents complete brake loss. I did unplug the switch at the block just to verify and yes the light goes out. Would this be indicative of a bad valve or is it possible I still have air trapped in the valve? When I bled everything I did hit the calipers with a rubber mallet but never tapped this distribution block/valve deal. I’ve also tried the stabbing the brake pedal deal to no avail.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
Likes: 205
From: Michigan
Not sure about '77's, but my understanding of the valve in general (and for my '69) is that it should be reset by a hard and fast several stomps on the brake pedal after the system has been fully bled and topped off.
This "should" re-center the valve pin inside the valve body and allow the light to turn off.
This "should" re-center the valve pin inside the valve body and allow the light to turn off.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 570
Likes: 65
From: Sebastian,FL
Not sure about '77's, but my understanding of the valve in general (and for my '69) is that it should be reset by a hard and fast several stomps on the brake pedal after the system has been fully bled and topped off.
This "should" re-center the valve pin inside the valve body and allow the light to turn off.
This "should" re-center the valve pin inside the valve body and allow the light to turn off.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 570
Likes: 65
From: Sebastian,FL
Ok for what’s its worth in my case I tried the key on engine off deal and didn’t work. What did solve it was car running pressed the brakes like a normal stop and held it there for maybe 10 seconds and light went off.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
Likes: 205
From: Michigan
Engine running charges the booster for more oomph out of the pedal.
If manual brakes, engine running shouldn't matter.
But good on'ya for the fix!
Replacing that valve would have meant cracking open the fluid system again and re-bleeding.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Engine running with power brakes. And you really need to stomp hard and fast several times to re-center that valve. There is a tool for recentering that valve, once you remove the sensor from that distribution block. But, as you have said, it will then require re-bleed on the brakes. Good luck. 
P.S. You can bleed the system with that valve off-center. It just flows more slowly. When repairing the brake system for a leak, it is best to re-center that valve BEFORE doing the bleeding process. Not something we normally think of, however.
P.P.S. You are aware that the e-brake, when engaged, also turns on that same BRAKE lamp. Hopefully, you don't have the e-brake engaged....
P.S. You can bleed the system with that valve off-center. It just flows more slowly. When repairing the brake system for a leak, it is best to re-center that valve BEFORE doing the bleeding process. Not something we normally think of, however.
P.P.S. You are aware that the e-brake, when engaged, also turns on that same BRAKE lamp. Hopefully, you don't have the e-brake engaged....
Last edited by 7T1vette; Apr 23, 2020 at 01:03 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
The little tool that centers the Prop Valve piston when bleeding brakes for when using the "pedal method". Removing the switch (sensor) does nothing to the brake system.
No fluid will come out of the Prop Valve switches port, nor will air go into the Prop Valve. So no bleeding is require to swap-out the switch or remove the tool.
If the warning light refuses to cancel, and you have a good pedal, then suspect the little spring in the Prop Valve is on its last leg. Rare, but does happen.
And on occasion, the switch itself is shot. Those switches have different designs over the yrs. Make sure you get the correct one.
No fluid will come out of the Prop Valve switches port, nor will air go into the Prop Valve. So no bleeding is require to swap-out the switch or remove the tool.
If the warning light refuses to cancel, and you have a good pedal, then suspect the little spring in the Prop Valve is on its last leg. Rare, but does happen.
And on occasion, the switch itself is shot. Those switches have different designs over the yrs. Make sure you get the correct one.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 23, 2020 at 01:13 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 570
Likes: 65
From: Sebastian,FL
Engine running with power brakes. And you really need to stomp hard and fast several times to re-center that valve. There is a tool for recentering that valve, once you remove the sensor from that distribution block. But, as you have said, it will then require re-bleed on the brakes. Good luck.
P.S. You can bleed the system with that valve off-center. It just flows more slowly. When repairing the brake system for a leak, it is best to re-center that valve BEFORE doing the bleeding process. Not something we normally think of, however.
P.P.S. You are aware that the e-brake, when engaged, also turns on that same BRAKE lamp. Hopefully, you don't have the e-brake engaged....
P.S. You can bleed the system with that valve off-center. It just flows more slowly. When repairing the brake system for a leak, it is best to re-center that valve BEFORE doing the bleeding process. Not something we normally think of, however.
P.P.S. You are aware that the e-brake, when engaged, also turns on that same BRAKE lamp. Hopefully, you don't have the e-brake engaged....
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 22
From: Kentucky
Had similar issue. Brake warning light was on and would not go off after trying the methods discussed above. Power bled all calipers again and light went out after starting engine and applying normal pressure to the pedal a few times. I actually heard the piston when it released and the light went out.