Stretched out throttle cable
Thread Starter
Obsessed
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 627
Likes: 394
From: Valencia, Spain
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (stock)
Stretched out throttle cable
Been trying to get my throttle cable adjusted to achieve wide open throttle when I floor it. I can’t adjust it anymore on the carburetor end so now I’ll have a look at the gas pedal. In the past some of you guys suggested bending the throttle arm up at the gas pedal. I have avoided that so far just because it so difficult to get up in there. I’m a big guy and at 64 years old not as pliable as I used to be. I’m thinking I’ll take the driver seat out and steering wheel off to give myself some more room to work. I also have a new kick down switch I’d like to install while I’m down there. If this doesn’t work I’ll have to get a new throttle cable. I have a 1971 350/270hp with the original Quadrajet carburetor. Any suggestions on an aftermarket supplier who makes this cable if I have to go that route? Is it a difficult install? Scares the hell out of me if I have to take the dash apart to get the cable through the firewall...
If anyone has delt with this please give advise. Thanks in advance. Dave
If anyone has delt with this please give advise. Thanks in advance. Dave
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
I just installed a new Lokar throttle cable on my '73 as I upgraded to Edelbrock's Pro-Flo XT intake and needed a much longer cable. Years before, I had replaced the factory cable with a Lokar cable. It's not a real fun job but can be done without removing the dash. Your idea of removing the seat and the steering wheel will definitely help. I removed my seat but left the steering wheel installed. It would have been easier with the steering wheel removed. To me, the hardest part of the job was being able to see under the dash without permanently distorting my back. I surveyed the situation by scooting under the steering wheel and laying on my back with my feet on the rear compartments. Not a lot of freedom of movement for my arms so much of the job was done by feel while kneeling outside the car. Fortunately, I have long enough arms.
First make sure there is nothing restricting the movement of the pedal before you go any further. I couldn't get full throttle when I first bought my '73 and it turned out to be carpet and wires preventing the throttle from going all the way to the floor.
On my '73, there are three bolts holding the accelerator pedal assemble. I removed those bolts with a socket and long extension and completely removed the assembly from the car both times I did this job. I found it much easier to remove the top bolt by first removing the kick down switch. In the engine compartment, the place on the firewall where the cable went through was easy access. The Lokar outer cable housing inserted into that hole and then I had to reach up underneath and install the retaining nut on the other end by feel. Once I got it hand tight, I could use a long extension and socket to snug it up.
While the pedal assembly was out of the car, I clean it up and lubed the arm's pivot point. Once the outer cable housing was installed, I slipped the inner cable through the accelerator arm and then through the cable housing into the engine compartment. I then reinstalled the pedal assembly. I left the kick down switch off this last time as I am also converting to an electronically controlled transmission (4L60E).
I really like the Lokar cables. The first time, I picked up a short universal cable that could be cut to fit and had no issues getting it installed to the correct length. This last time I also picked up a much longer universal kit. It was also easy to install and adjust. The Lokar cables come with a clevis type end to install on the end of accelerator arm. I didn't use that clevis. I used a washer with a small enough hole to prevent the ball on the end of the inner cable from going through the arm and then adhered that washer to the arm to keep it from sliding out of place while re-installing.
Good luck,
DC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 6,375
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Bubba has a fix for that.
Thread Starter
Obsessed
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 627
Likes: 394
From: Valencia, Spain
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (stock)
I just installed a new Lokar throttle cable on my '73 as I upgraded to Edelbrock's Pro-Flo XT intake and needed a much longer cable. Years before, I had replaced the factory cable with a Lokar cable. It's not a real fun job but can be done without removing the dash. Your idea of removing the seat and the steering wheel will definitely help. I removed my seat but left the steering wheel installed. It would have been easier with the steering wheel removed. To me, the hardest part of the job was being able to see under the dash without permanently distorting my back. I surveyed the situation by scooting under the steering wheel and laying on my back with my feet on the rear compartments. Not a lot of freedom of movement for my arms so much of the job was done by feel while kneeling outside the car. Fortunately, I have long enough arms.
First make sure there is nothing restricting the movement of the pedal before you go any further. I couldn't get full throttle when I first bought my '73 and it turned out to be carpet and wires preventing the throttle from going all the way to the floor.
On my '73, there are three bolts holding the accelerator pedal assemble. I removed those bolts with a socket and long extension and completely removed the assembly from the car both times I did this job. I found it much easier to remove the top bolt by first removing the kick down switch. In the engine compartment, the place on the firewall where the cable went through was easy access. The Lokar outer cable housing inserted into that hole and then I had to reach up underneath and install the retaining nut on the other end by feel. Once I got it hand tight, I could use a long extension and socket to snug it up.
While the pedal assembly was out of the car, I clean it up and lubed the arm's pivot point. Once the outer cable housing was installed, I slipped the inner cable through the accelerator arm and then through the cable housing into the engine compartment. I then reinstalled the pedal assembly. I left the kick down switch off this last time as I am also converting to an electronically controlled transmission (4L60E).
I really like the Lokar cables. The first time, I picked up a short universal cable that could be cut to fit and had no issues getting it installed to the correct length. This last time I also picked up a much longer universal kit. It was also easy to install and adjust. The Lokar cables come with a clevis type end to install on the end of accelerator arm. I didn't use that clevis. I used a washer with a small enough hole to prevent the ball on the end of the inner cable from going through the arm and then adhered that washer to the arm to keep it from sliding out of place while re-installing.
Good luck,
DC
First make sure there is nothing restricting the movement of the pedal before you go any further. I couldn't get full throttle when I first bought my '73 and it turned out to be carpet and wires preventing the throttle from going all the way to the floor.
On my '73, there are three bolts holding the accelerator pedal assemble. I removed those bolts with a socket and long extension and completely removed the assembly from the car both times I did this job. I found it much easier to remove the top bolt by first removing the kick down switch. In the engine compartment, the place on the firewall where the cable went through was easy access. The Lokar outer cable housing inserted into that hole and then I had to reach up underneath and install the retaining nut on the other end by feel. Once I got it hand tight, I could use a long extension and socket to snug it up.
While the pedal assembly was out of the car, I clean it up and lubed the arm's pivot point. Once the outer cable housing was installed, I slipped the inner cable through the accelerator arm and then through the cable housing into the engine compartment. I then reinstalled the pedal assembly. I left the kick down switch off this last time as I am also converting to an electronically controlled transmission (4L60E).
I really like the Lokar cables. The first time, I picked up a short universal cable that could be cut to fit and had no issues getting it installed to the correct length. This last time I also picked up a much longer universal kit. It was also easy to install and adjust. The Lokar cables come with a clevis type end to install on the end of accelerator arm. I didn't use that clevis. I used a washer with a small enough hole to prevent the ball on the end of the inner cable from going through the arm and then adhered that washer to the arm to keep it from sliding out of place while re-installing.
Good luck,
DC
thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed explanation, I really appreciate it. Will check out the carpet and wires and try bending the pedal bracket a bit to see if that does the trick. If not I’ll replace the cable. Big thanks to Lars as well...👍🏻
