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Okay finally installing the rear storage compartment and went to connect the lights and the plugs don’t accept each other. Car is a 69. All wiring is new from Lectric Limited including the light switch for the storage tray. The red from the wiring harness should go to the red/black on the switch but they both look like female plugs. The black wire from the wiring harness and the black wire from the switch look like male plugs. They won’t even connect if I reverse them, the wiring harness black will go into the black/red switch plug. Did I get the wrong year light switch??
Pat, those look like the same connectors for the light that came on my 68 rear harness. Could it be an early/late car thing. I have some Packard terminals and connectors here, can make you up a couple of wires if you want me to.
That’s why I was wondering if I got the wrong connector on either the harness or the light switch? I only have a couple of the regular packard terminals, these seem to be longer than the ones I have. It’s the harness that you think is incorrect? The switch from LL say for 1968-1976 corvettes so either way it should fit either year. Or is the connector ends on the wrong wire? Like both black wires have a ‘skinny’ plug and the red and red/black wires have a ‘fat’ plug.
I will take a pic of mine in the morning of the harness. Was going to fab up a light for the center compartment but not using the stock compartment liner.
Well I might have to fab up some new connections. I can’t figure out how they would connect and the new switch looks just like my original switch connections. I didn’t pull out the original harness to check that though. Also while playing with it today I found that I’m getting no power in the harness there or for the courtesy lights, which are all on the same circuit. I traced it back to the ‘bat’ connection on the fuse panel and something else to dig around with tomorrow. I now really wished I moved had over that fuse box somewhere more convenient!! It didn’t seem to bad when the car was stripped but now, even with the seats out, its a royal pain to see or get to anything up there!
Pat, on my 68 harness they are the same as yours. It is a male and female but they don’t have the locking tabs that the normal Packard connectors have. Not sure why.
Last edited by 69ttop502; May 2, 2020 at 07:59 PM.
Hey guys' just received my center glove box switch and tried to hook it up. SAME PROBLEM, I received it from corvette central.cant believe someone has the same problem. the Black should go to black and red goes to red its a 1970 but if you try to put them backwards they kinda fit plus I have all new wire harness let me know what you find out and I will call corvette central on Saturday
Well I’ll let you know what I did. The connector on the red wire from the harness on mine is on backwards. I took it off and reversed it. Now the problem remains though that the red harness wire and the red/black switch wire are both male and the black wires from the harness and the switch are both female. You can do two things. Take out the switch, remove the plastic to expose the male and female connectors, cut them off and put a female connector on the red/black wire and a male connector on the black wire. Install plastic cover for female on female and for male on male. Reinstall. Or the other way is how I did it. I made two small jumper wires about 3” long. One red with female connectors on both ends and a black one with male connectors on both ends. Plugged it into the harness and switch. Works perfectly. I didn’t get to call LL to see why they did this because they were closed on Saturday.
Glad a bought a set of packard 56 connectors!! Hope this helps.
Ohh forgot to mention also I found the reason I was getting no power at the ‘BAT’ post on the fuse panel. The power for those three center posts in the fuse panel come through the fuses that surround them. So if one of those fuses are no good you get no power to those posts. All the glass fuses were brand new and all looked good but when I ran a meter across them two were not sending power across. I pulled them. One shattered, the other came out and looked great. Checked for continuity and was good. Inspected it a little more and one of the metal ends was a little loose. Anyway I put in two new glass fuses and everything works. Power where its supposed to be.
Now does anyone know where to get quality glass fuses? Looking at the service manual there are a few types used and I googled them and got all one type, some are even metric? I bought these from of of the vendors and would rather get a large variety box to keep handy. Even better I would like to get a glass fuse to blade type adapter that I’ve seen but can’t locate them anywhere????
Hey Pmccooey I have the same problem but I looked at my old light switch and its the same as my old one.the wires go backward orange to black and black to orange and they do plug in together at least on my 70 and it works kinda messed up.even the wire diagram shows black to black but the plug don't fit. try plugging it in and try it won't hurt, it should work
I spoke to LL and they indeed produce them like this. Both hots have the same plug and both grounds have the same plug. They are going to look into it. Now you could plug them in reverse and being an incandescent bulb would work in reverse polarity but I don’t like the idea of sending power up the ground and energizing the whole switch itself. I wonder if that’s how they made them from the factory???
Great guys at LL. They called me back and pulled the originals and that is how GM made them 50 years ago! They reversed them and ran it through the ground on the switch! Another associate at LL said that about 25 years ago they corrected the mistake and someone complained that it wasn’t how the original was in their car so they brought it back to the way it is now. I guess a production mistake that slipped though 50 years ago and now the repo companies have to continue building it that way!
Yeah he understood the reverse polarity would work but I just didn’t like the one in a million chance that some piece of metal in the jack compartment would touch that metal tang on the sid of the switch. I’m sure its next to impossible but it was obviously a production mistake that never got corrected in 69. I wonder if they fixed it in 70? Would have to be on the wiring harness because the switch stayed the same up to 76. The easiest way to do it would be to cut and put new terminal ends on the switch and be done. I just didn’t want to pull the switch after getting the whole storage compartment back in.
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