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When I want to stop the crank from turning to take off crank accessories I use rope in the spark plug hole.
you should be able to run the engine and see if the pulley or harmonic balancer is wobbling. I'm thinking IF this is the problem that it's striking the timing chain cover as it rotates? Or the pulley is wobbling striking the balancer and making the noise?
We've eliminated all accessories as suspects by removing belts.
I would temporarily remove the flexplate/torque converter sheet metal guard just to eliminate that as a source.
A main bearing is usually a grumbling deep down sound vs a knock or tick, so it sounds like that's out.
seems to keep coming back to valve train if it's not crank related.
This engine was rebuilt so... what if the cam sprocket is coming loose? I've never hear that sound, but WTH we got noting to lose.
And if you go there make sure the chain is not all stretched out and slapping the timing cover.
Last edited by REELAV8R; May 20, 2020 at 03:56 PM.
The inner dampers can be hard to see.....the only real way to check them is to pull the retainer and lock.......not a terrible job if you have the air adapter for your spark plug hole.
I have disassembled engines in the past where these were broken.
I would temporarily remove the flexplate/torque converter sheet metal guard just to eliminate that as a source.
This engine was rebuilt so... what if the cam sprocket is coming loose? I've never hear that sound, but WTH we got noting to lose.
And if you go there make sure the chain is not all stretched out and slapping the timing cover.
I have already tried to separate the flexplate / torque converter, but that had no effect.
I'm going to check the cam sprocket and the chain.
Dumbazz here, but only way I KNOW to check flexplate for crack(s) is unbolt converter and pull flexplate out & inspect ... may have to pull trans aft/back to get flexplate out. Sometimes you can see the crack without pulling it, sometimes Not. Flexplates are cheap.
Also, as said, a busted spring's inner Damper as well ... Springs are even cheaper.
The inner dampers can be hard to see.....the only real way to check them is to pull the retainer and lock.......not a terrible job if you have the air adapter for your spark plug hole.
I have disassembled engines in the past where these were broken.
Reading this thread is like reading an Agatha Christie mystery.
Something is dying, all the usual suspects have been interviewed, Hercule Poirot and Miss Marple have been pondering, but no definite suspect has been found.
Reading this thread is like reading an Agatha Christie mystery.
Something is dying, all the usual suspects have been interviewed, Hercule Poirot and Miss Marple have been pondering, but no definite suspect has been found.
OP is Niederlander ... Poirot is Belgian ... perhaps OP's domiciled near Bruges ?
I know asking another exhaust question is beating a dead horse but,
How old are the headers?
Could there be a spot that has burned through?
Especially looking at the inside welds and where the primary tubes connect at the flanges and collectors?
I know asking another exhaust question is beating a dead horse but,
How old are the headers?
Could there be a spot that has burned through?
Especially looking at the inside welds and where the primary tubes connect at the flanges and collectors?
The exhaust manifolds and the exhaust pipe are made of stainless steel and half a year old. I checked the exhaust on a bridge and there are absolutely no leaks.
Thank you all for the comments and tips. Unfortunately, the problem is not resolved. I am going to remove and disassemble the block until I find the problem.
Thank you all for the comments and tips. Unfortunately, the problem is not resolved. I am going to remove and disassemble the block until I find the problem.
Good luck and Keep us posted with your findings ... this is about the longest dead-end road I can recall "traveling."