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C3 ticking / knocking sound.

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Old May 10, 2020 | 10:24 AM
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Default C3 ticking / knocking sound.

My Corvette from 1977 with a engine from 1968 makes a ticking sound which goes with the revs.

https://photos.google.com/search/_tv...IkkMV2y6rhyiXx

What I have already done:
* New oil and oil filter

* Valves adjusted
* Valves lift checked
* Flex plate checked
* All bearings checked
* Fuel pump is new
* Exhaust gasket is new
* Octane fuel is 98
* Oil pressure at warm engine 800 rpm is 60/65 psi
* Compression is between the lowest and highest setting 4%
* Pre-ignition is 12 degrees at 800 rpm and 36 degrees at 3500 rpm

Last edited by Corvette 1977; May 10, 2020 at 10:29 AM.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 11:18 AM
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Have you tried to isolate from where the ticking is coming from?

Use a piece of hose with one end at your ear at the other move around to find where it is loudest.

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Old May 10, 2020 | 12:11 PM
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Have you changed out the fuel pump rod? Believe it or not.....I built a $5000 406 and decided the original fuel pump rod was ok. After breaking in the cam....I heard a tick coming from around the front. Knowing full well that I lashed and built my engine proper, I decided to change out the fuel pump rod for an ARP as a hail mary......and viola', no more noise.
BTW....your oil pressure at idle is way too high......I would fix this as it just put strain on all of the components that run the pump.

Jebby

Last edited by Jebbysan; May 10, 2020 at 12:13 PM.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 12:43 PM
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That 60-65 pressure is a clue the motor may have been modified/rebuilt ... if so, how long ago? ... and was a new camshaft/lifters installed ?
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Old May 10, 2020 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Have you tried to isolate from where the ticking is coming from?

Use a piece of hose with one end at your ear at the other move around to find where it is loudest.
I have a stethoscope but hear then everywhere the same sound.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:05 PM
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First thing I thought of you already took care of. Exhaust gasket.

These annoying sounds are very difficult to trace. Could be from a simple loose exhaust manifold bolt, to a more expensive issue such as rod knock.

There is an "old school" test, that requires a pair of insulated handle pliers, rubber gloves and nerves of steel. Carefully pull one plug wire at a time and note any difference in RPMs / sounds.

And it doesn't hurt to be standing on a rubber mat also.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Have you changed out the fuel pump rod? Believe it or not.....I built a $5000 406 and decided the original fuel pump rod was ok. After breaking in the cam....I heard a tick coming from around the front. Knowing full well that I lashed and built my engine proper, I decided to change out the fuel pump rod for an ARP as a hail mary......and viola', no more noise.
BTW....your oil pressure at idle is way too high......I would fix this as it just put strain on all of the components that run the pump.

Jebby
I have replaced the fuel pump but not the fuel pump rod
How can I see if the fuel pump rod is no longer working properly?

The high oil pressure is because it contains a Chevrolet high volume oil pump.

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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.

There is an "old school" test, that requires a pair of insulated handle pliers, rubber gloves and nerves of steel. Carefully pull one plug wire at a time and note any difference in RPMs / sounds.

And it doesn't hurt to be standing on a rubber mat also.
I have done that already
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jackson
That 60-65 pressure is a clue the motor may have been modified/rebuilt ... if so, how long ago? ... and was a new camshaft/lifters installed ?
No, the camshaft and lifters are about 7000 km / 4350 miles.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette 1977
I have replaced the fuel pump but not the fuel pump rod
How can I see if the fuel pump rod is no longer working properly?

The high oil pressure is because it contains a Chevrolet high volume oil pump.
You can't....just change it out and see if the problem disappears......
I do not run HV pumps on 90% of my builds......that high oil pressure is going to wear out components over a period of time. Just too much at idle.......should be around 30 and sweep free to 60-65 when revved.....this is what I like to see.
Not a single small block that revs to under 6000 RPM needs an HV pump......it is a myth that has stuck for over 40 years and one I wish would die.

Jebby

Last edited by Jebbysan; May 10, 2020 at 01:27 PM.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
You can't....just change it out and see if the problem disappears......
Can I easily remove the push rod?
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:39 PM
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All true ... I'd be measuring all lifts to determine if a lobe(s)/lifter(s) are failing ... as above, FP rod's cheap & easy to do ... as above, HV pump's usually not the best option.

https://www.melling.com/aftermarket-...u-k/technical/
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette 1977
Can I easily remove the push rod?
Yes.....remove the pump and the plate and it will slide right out.....in the front of the block, there is a bolt....remove this and insert a longer bolt in there....slide the new pushrod up (Lube first!) and thread your new longer bolt in while holding up the pushrod....now thread the bolt til it stops finger tight.....install the plate and pump and MAKE SURE you remove the long bolt and put the short bolt back in.

Jebby
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Yes.....remove the pump and the plate and it will slide right out.....in the front of the block, there is a bolt....remove this and insert a longer bolt in there....slide the new pushrod up (Lube first!) and thread your new longer bolt in while holding up the pushrod....now thread the bolt til it stops finger tight.....install the plate and pump and MAKE SURE you remove the long bolt and put the short bolt back in.

Jebby
Thanks, I'm going to do it.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:51 PM
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Thanks for the info.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette 1977
Thanks, I'm going to do it.
Use this pushrod:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-8701

Jebby
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Old May 10, 2020 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Thanks, I will see if they are available in the Netherlands or else I will order the push rod at Summit Racing.
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To C3 ticking / knocking sound.

Old May 10, 2020 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Not a single small block that revs to under 6000 RPM needs an HV pump......it is a myth that has stuck for over 40 years and one I wish would die.

Jebby
That will kill a distributor gear real fast.
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Old May 10, 2020 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
That will kill a distributor gear real fast.
We back to back tested a 540hp 383 in 2007 with STD and HV pumps from Moroso in a Moroso pan.....
The 383 made 5 horsepower more with a standard volume pump and revved to 6400 rpm to make that power.
This is how much power the average lawn mower makes just to turn the shaft......I never looked back after that.
Truth is that modern heads are so good now that just about any 383+ cube engine makes peak power under 6500 rpm.....where the STD pump is still working just fine (Assuming correct pickup depth, steel sleeve shaft, shaft welded or brazed to pump to prevent aeration).
Tight clearances make an HV pump a foe rather than an ally......and the main passages of your typical GM block can't flow what the pump puts out anyhoo.....I used to have to drill even the Bow-Tie blocks oil galleys with a 3 foot long drill bit in the late 90's to make an HV pump happy on a 7000 rpm engine.....if they were not drilled they would score bearing and we found out from GM that they needed to be drilled by an insider....when asked why the damn thing were not drilled that way to begin with...it boiled down to $$$$$ as usual.

Jebby
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Old May 10, 2020 | 04:32 PM
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I will replace the HV oil pump with a standard oil pump.
Thanks for the info
Jebby
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