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I am preparing to lay sound deadener and heat shielding in my 69 coupe prior to replacing the carpet. What is the best way to clean the flooring and other surfaces to get the best result for adhesion? Soap and water? Simple Green? What is the best way to remove surface rust? Sand and paint?
also what order for the barrier layers? sound barrier first followed by heat barrier?
Last edited by Bhebert449; May 11, 2020 at 06:52 PM.
I am preparing to lay sound deadener and heat shielding in my 69 coupe prior to replacing the carpet. What is the best way to clean the flooring and other surfaces to get the best result for adhesion? Soap and water? Simple Green? What is the best way to remove surface rust? Sand and paint?
also what order for the barrier layers? sound barrier first followed by heat barrier?
do everything, I vacuumed, brushed, vacuumed, wiped it down with wet rages to get additional dust out, wiped dry, tape still came loose.
Just received the thermotec coolit product. I didn’t realize it was a sound deadener and heat shield. I guess I can accomplish both in one step? Also plan to install the jute pad with the new carpet and may also opt for the mass backing. This should be sufficient, no?
I used a putty knife to clean old chunks of carpet and adhesive than vacuumed. I than wiped down the area I was working with acetone and plenty of rags. Changing the rags frequently. I put down the sound deadner first than the heat barrier insulation than jute backed carpet.
I gutted my interior to install a roll cage. After using a hole saw to cut holes for the tubing I rotary wire brushed, blew it out, and cleaned with soap and water. From summit racing I bought the fireproof aluminum thermal bubble insulation sound barrier mating made for race cars. I did the whole interior. It was sticky on one side and it is feasible to do the under side of the car if you had the engine and tranny out. I then bought interior flame retardant short pile carpet and had an upholstery shop install it all.
I gutted my interior to install a roll cage. After using a hole saw to cut holes for the tubing I rotary wire brushed, blew it out, and cleaned with soap and water. From summit racing I bought the fireproof aluminum thermal bubble insulation sound barrier mating made for race cars. I did the whole interior. It was sticky on one side and it is feasible to do the under side of the car if you had the engine and tranny out. I then bought interior flame retardant short pile carpet and had an upholstery shop install it all.
did you spray any primer on interior parts after hitting them with the wire brush?
You're asking a good question before going to the VERY worthwhile effort of what you're doing.
I encountered an adhesion issue in the upper passenger side floorpan. You guessed it. At some point the heater core had leaked/been replaced and - although, I had noticed the slight residual of anti-freeze in the old jute backing, in my haste I did not adequately de-antifreeze the floorboard despite thinking that I had. The stuff is surprisingly stubborn requiring extra effort with dishsoap & water/rinsing, followed by windex.
Btw, this is also the opportune time to thoroughly disinfect your exposed floorboard (Lysol) for the decades of invisible microbial stuff that causes or contributes to the ‘old car smell’ as they decay.
Good luck - and, what a worthwhile upgrade where you will notice an immediate NVH reduction! I added a double layer (replacing and the same thickness as jute backing) of ‘Reflectix’ for good measure. What an improvement vs. the factory design -
Last edited by Lakeside49; May 16, 2020 at 08:06 AM.
Interior sound/heat barrier prep?
