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For the restauration of my '72 I've bought the Clock Rebuild Quartz Movement Kit.
The original clock stopped working, so I've decided for the convertion to quartz.
So far so good.
I've ordered the kit, a couple of days later I got the kit, send from a big US-dealer .
I've tested the new kit with a 12V powersupply, and everthing worked fine, for a couple of days.
So I've decided to put the kit into the housing of my old clock, therefore I've checked out the youtube video from willcox.
Everything was fine, the new kit worked fine in the old housing for an hour or two.
Then it stopped working: the white needle for the seconds (don't know how it's called in english, I'm from Germany.. ) just trembles (?) and nothing else happens.
So I've dismantled everything again and checked out that the there is a little white wheel inside the clock, that has two pointers, 180° left to right.
One of this pointers stucks into the little pink center wheel, that stopps the clock.
My Question: is there anybody here who had the same problem with the conversion kit?
If yes: what's the solution?
I've made a short video of it, I'll try to upload it here..
I would like to send the kit back, but I've ordered it in the US and shipping is around $40...
It's less expensive to buy a new one..
You might consider taking the clock to a watch shop to have them repair the 'problem' part or area. If the clock mechanism is defective, the conversion process will not be successful.
I bought a used quartz kit from someone here about 15 years ago, it has not stopped since. Keeps accurate time and the only issue is pulling the **** out to move the hands, always feels like it will break so I just set it and forget it. Maybe you got a bad one?
The quartz 'conversion' only replaces the winding mechanism; it still uses the stock gear sets inside. A quartz 'replacement clock' replaces almost all of the stock guts. I think the OP's existing clock parts are the problem....not the quartz conversion items.
Yep. I did too. I chose to put the original to "rest" and have all new parts. But that requires you to remove [then replace] the clock face to the new guts. The conversion doesn't need that work.
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 15, 2020 at 12:33 PM.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
I have an assembly that I have not installed yet. Very similar design but not quite the same (ISI Instrument Services Inc.). I hooked it up (12.6 VDC) and everything starts and runs OK. Looking at the wheel with the three pointers (#1) and how it functions, it looks like it is there to stop the clock if the larger wheel (#2) right along side of it goes in the opposite of proper operating direction. Perhaps to only allow movement when setting the clock to go forward maybe? Your problem looks like the pointer at the pink wheel can not release to let the #1 wheel back off and release the pink wheel. Seems like wheel #1 relies on the friction interface to wheel #2 turning correctly to back off the pointer. I would call the manufacturer and see if they can give you instruction how to increase the tension a bit. Might involve moving one of these two wheels a little closer together on their shafts. Good Luck!