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Good Day people this has most likely been covered at some point or another. but i am looking to change the factory manifolds over to Headers. What headers are recommended ( in you guys experience) with the least amount modifying, Can i just remove the manifolds and replace with headers direct fit with out totally removing the engine, i do not want side pipes and would like them bolt up to my existing exhaust via 2'' collectors. I have noticed block huggers are nice but it appears to be a real tight squeeze. just looking for what works best with the least amount of fuss. 1979,350 with AC automatic.
The only way to bolt right up to existing exhaust is by using a shorty header designed for such connection. However you won't get the same performance gains as from a full length header. Full length headers can be bolted to your existing exhaust but it will take some cutting and welding. You can put on headers without removing the engine.
From: Into the Mystic And yet, despite the look on my face, you're still talking TN
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
Maybe someone with way more knowledge than me will add to this but I think I would work on removing some of that smog crap before I spent money on headers. Your engine is so choked now that headers will be of very little or no benefit. Just my $.02.
Maybe someone with way more knowledge than me will add to this but I think I would work on removing some of that smog crap before I spent money on headers. Your engine is so choked now that headers will be of very little or no benefit. Just my $.02.
OK actually i was thinking about that as well, when you say smog crap do you mean the EGR valve and ported vacumm switches. No smog pump attached.
Most common header collector size is 3" with three bolts. Then a 3" collector reducer is attached to that, to get the needed size of your exhaust pipe (2")
Try Summit Racing. See what they have in a 1 & 5/8 primary, 3" collector, ceramic coated. I believe Dyna Tech is reasonable.
You will need to fabricate some type of spacer for the (missing) exh manifold bolt near the A/C to hold the compressor. The spacer will need to be the length of the thickness of the manifold.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 13, 2020 at 06:17 PM.
I’m installing a set of these along with some aluminum cylinder heads tomorrow , just get a 2.5 to 2.0 inch reducer measure twice and cut once https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30057/10002/-1
1 5/8 tubing , 2.5 collector , it doesn't take a whole lot to see they are far better than the factory manifolds not to mention the top half is identical to these https://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/68...content=Hedman
As others have reported, they are difficult to attach your exhaust piping to. And offer very little in torque / H.P. gains.
Long tube are more popular choices.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 15, 2020 at 05:20 PM.
As others have reported, they are difficult to attach your exhaust piping to. And offer very little in torque / H.P. gains.
Long tube are more popular choice.
Lol , so you want to argue about headers on a stock engine and exhaust system ? These shorty's I linked to have the same exhaust location as Rams horn manifold , as far as torque and power maybe a little bit off from full headers but not much with stock mufflers and exhaust like the OP has not to mention going through starters with full tube headers from heat soak .. Totally aware of what full tube headers do , master mechanic for 38 years and repair shop owner for 33 years ,
Most common header collector size is 3" with three bolts. Then a 3" collector reducer is attached to that, to get the needed size of your exhaust pipe (2")
Try Summit Racing. See what they have in a 1 & 5/8 primary, 3" collector, ceramic coated. I believe Dyna Tech is reasonable.
You will need to fabricate some type of spacer for the (missing) exh manifold bolt near the A/C to hold the compressor. The spacer will need to be the length of the thickness of the manifold.
what smog items would you consider removing without ruining anything?
Lol , so you want to argue about headers on a stock engine and exhaust system ? These shorty's I linked to have the same exhaust location as Rams horn manifold , as far as torque and power maybe a little bit off from full headers but not much with stock mufflers and exhaust like the OP has not to mention going through starters with full tube headers from heat soak .. Totally aware of what full tube headers do , master mechanic for 38 years and repair shop owner for 33 years ,
what smog items would you consider removing without ruining anything?
what smog items would you consider removing without ruining anything?
If your state allows, everything off. Its just performance killers, makes the engine difficult to work on and looks like ****.
The purist will disagree but I believe in keeping things simple, enjoyable. Smog crap is none of those.
Pitch the air pump, cast iron Exh manifold, EGR and about two miles of vacuum lines. Re-time the distributor curve,
Lol , so you want to argue about headers on a stock engine and exhaust system ? These shorty's I linked to have the same exhaust location as Rams horn manifold , as far as torque and power maybe a little bit off from full headers but not much with stock mufflers and exhaust like the OP has not to mention going through starters with full tube headers from heat soak .. Totally aware of what full tube headers do , master mechanic for 38 years and repair shop owner for 33 years ,
Who am I arguing with, you? I am just repeating what others have said about shorty headers. Not a great investment.
I don't have any, don't want any, but to each their own. I can add my two cents worth just like you.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 15, 2020 at 05:19 PM.
Who am I arguing with, you? I am just repeating what others have said about shorty headers. Not a great investment.
I don't have any, don't want any, but to each their own. I can add my two cents worth just like you.
lol , I see you deleted your snarky comment , have a great weekend
If your state allows, everything off. Its just performance killers, makes the engine difficult to work on and looks like ****.
The purist will disagree but I believe in keeping things simple, enjoyable. Smog crap is none of those.
Pitch the air pump, cast iron Exh manifold, EGR and about two miles of vacuum lines. Re-time the distributor curve,
From: Into the Mystic And yet, despite the look on my face, you're still talking TN
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
If your state allows, everything off. Its just performance killers, makes the engine difficult to work on and looks like ****.
The purist will disagree but I believe in keeping things simple, enjoyable. Smog crap is none of those.
Pitch the air pump, cast iron Exh manifold, EGR and about two miles of vacuum lines. Re-time the distributor curve,
no cht
I think albore must have had some rubber tube stock
Lol , so you want to argue about headers on a stock engine and exhaust system ? These shorty's I linked to have the same exhaust location as Rams horn manifold , as far as torque and power maybe a little bit off from full headers but not much with stock mufflers and exhaust like the OP has not to mention going through starters with full tube headers from heat soak .. Totally aware of what full tube headers do , master mechanic for 38 years and repair shop owner for 33 years ,
I agree and Correct^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This nonsense comes up all the time about stock manifolds, shorty headers, long tube headers. It is simple not true, correct, or based on any factual scientific analysis over years and years that the only performance improvement is LTH versus shorty headers. Shorty headers DO offer a performance improvement over stock manifolds , just not as much as LTH on a non stock motor. Long tubes will offer a performance improvement on a stock motor ONLY if the enhaust pipes and mufflers are upgraded as well over small diameter pipes and restrictive stock type mufflers.
I added shorty BBK headers to my stock 94 Mustang GT after I had been running the cat back magnaflow mufflers at different times (I drove with the magnaflows and stock manifolds for over 1 year). Adding the shorties showed little improvement in off idle and low RPM performance but the mid to high RPM could clearly be felt, the engine revved quicker to 6,000 RPM from about 4,000 RPM with noticeable more pull......
If you want stock manifolds with some performance, you may want to look at these:
the diff between shortys and long-tubes has nothing to do with the engine the OP is running now. once you start, you ain't gonna stop. you buy and install the shortys. you run em and like the power gain. next is heads and cam. then you look at that exhaust system you just bought and realize it has to go. this really needs to be considered with most upgrades. you buy nice small-chambered alum heads for a 355. now it is a 383. they are too small. at least too small for serious which is what you became after the first 1 or 2 upgrades.
Last edited by derekderek; May 16, 2020 at 08:31 AM.