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Has anyone replaced the factory glass tube style fuse block with a modern blade type box? I have not found a custom fit one for C3 Corvette so wondering how difficult a job it is to replace? My factory dash wire harness is in good shape so don’t want to go through expense of replacing the entire harness. I have a 69 coupe.
Why? Every car parts place still sells LittleFuse glass fuses AND you can buy any you need on the web. I haven't had to replace a blown fuse in the last 4-5 years. If fuses going bad was a regular problem, I'd be interested in making that change, too. But, very rare occurrence for me....
Why? Every car parts place still sells LittleFuse glass fuses AND you can buy any you need on the web. I haven't had to replace a blown fuse in the last 4-5 years. If fuses going bad was a regular problem, I'd be interested in making that change, too. But, very rare occurrence for me....
because it is 50 years old and I have my dash removed and thought it would be a good time to update it while I have easy access.
American Auto Wire and Lectric Limited both offer a "resto-mod" updated fusebox. Looks to be exactly the same item based on instructions. About $1200 plus you will need some additional harnesses for AC, PW, etc. This is a whole harness so your interior is coming out to do this.
Two things of note:
1) New fuse box goes in the stock location so it will still be a bitch to get to.
2) You lose some stock functionality (alarm, door ajar, etc)
I guess I'm with 7T1 on this one. Glass fuse or plastic one? It's just a fuse and both work so changing the box is of no benefit. I seriously think it's a waste of time and money unless you are doing some sort of restomod or a later engine swap that requires a computer/wiring change. I guess my question would be "why?" as it doesn't add anything or have any value.
Unless the wiring is shot I'd stick with the glass ones. Can't tell you the number or times I got home by putting a gum wrapper over a glass fuse, harder to do with the blade fuses.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
There was another thread on this. Its a great idea if you ned more fuse holders if you are upgrading to electric fans, bigger alternators, more accessories. I had to add a buss bar and an additional fuse panel for all the small electrical things. Painless sells a couple of universal ones and Summit carries them. You wold have to cut your harness and add the wires to the new harness. I would use solder and shrink wrap. I'll try and find the link to the other thread....
FWIW, all 79 and up C3s have modern ATC fuses. If you are replacing your wiring harness anyway, perhaps it is possible to use a later harness and get the more modern fuse block.
The OP said he does NOT want to replace the wiring harness. So just replacing the box is going to a major PITA. Just for plastic spade fuses instead of glass? Now if he was going to move it to someplace convienent that would be another strory. But then he's have to extend all the wiring. If he starts this project, I'll bet he'll soon wish he had not!
The OP said he does NOT want to replace the wiring harness. So just replacing the box is going to a major PITA. Just for plastic spade fuses instead of glass? Now if he was going to move it to someplace convienent that would be another strory. But then he's have to extend all the wiring. If he starts this project, I'll bet he'll soon wish he had not!
If you use the adapters to blade fuse-
AND
Get the blade fuses that have LEDs that light up when the fuse is blown-
Simple plug and play- nothing to rewire-
1) With the adapters- the fuse is MUCH easier to replace
2)Much easier to tell if it's a blown fuse w/ the LED
Now, THAT'S a route that makes sense....IF you want to go with "modern" fuses. The fancy ones with the little light which tells you that the radio which just failed (and you can't hear) has a burned up fuse are just "peachy" At least, they will tell you WHICH fuse is defective. But, using the 'conversion' strategy will also allow the use of the non-flashy fuses, too. So that would achieve your goal of modern fuses without tearing into a working 50-year old box & wiring.
With the motor out and the body off I took one look at 50 years of grease encrusting my exterior fuse block and said no way am I touching that! It works and it has to be like a 50 year old time capsule inside.
The adapters look pretty neat though, maybe my parts store has some on the shelf. Might buy some if possible just to have around. I used the lit fuses on an auxiliary fuse block, so far so good.