Has anyone used this product? Thermo Tec? It says for sound and heat shielding. Is it more for sound deadening? Should I top it with another layer like Reflectix for additional heat control? I will also install new carpet with jute padding.

 

I'm not standing on my head to read it , however I did cover my interior with it. Bad news - car is still in the garage unfinished. I know all the write-ups at the time were favorable. Good thing about this stuff is it's sticky on one side where you'd have to use glue or tape with Reflectix, and Reflectix does deteriorate slowly over time, especially if it sees light. One other thing to be wary of is if you get too much stuff between the floorpans and the carpet, then the carpet puckers a bit and doesn't quite fit right.

 

Thanks. I guess my main question is if the Thermo Tec serves primarily as a sound deadener or heat shielding or both. I really only have one chance to do this right especially up at the top of the footwell after I install my Vintage Air kit.

I am thinking an additional layer of some type of heat shielding in areas like the firewall, and trans tunnel and floor under the seats? What is the best heat shielding material to stack on top of the sound deadening layer?

 

anyone?

 

Most people use reflectix over sound deadener. I went a step farther and while my transmission was out I added DEI heat sheilding under the car.

 

Thermo Tec is way better than Reflectix which I think is a waste of time and money. Reflectix is basically bubble wrap which despite claims to the contrary has little r-value and is really only effective at blocking some radiant heat. Heat is transferred by 3 means - radiation, convection, and conduction. The shiny side of the Thermo Tec and similar products provides the radiant barrier. Air sealing reduces heat through convection (air movement). But if you want to reduce heat from conduction which is likely the greatest contributor, you'll need some r-value.

If you want some reading material, get on BuildingScience.com or GreenBuildingAdvisor.com and see what the building science experts say about Reflectix. They basically think it's a joke. Previous owner of my '73 installed Reflectix and glued it down. In addition to not being effective, it's too thick to be under the carpet. First time I get a chance to remove the carpet, it's coming out.

That said, one of the best ways to control heat is from outside the cabin with heat shield material. DEI makes some self-adhesive floor and tunnel heat shield that is rated for 1700 degrees or so. I installed some a few years ago underneath each foot well and it helped a lot. It stuck very well and shows no signs of coming loose. I cleaned the area very well before installing. I just recently installed their non-adhesive version in my transmission tunnel since I was in the middle of a transmission swap. Using the non-adhesive version in the tunnel made it easier to form to the shape of the tunnel and I was able to attach it using the existing heat shield clips and by using large fender washers under the battery cable hold down bolts.

DC

 

Thank you, appreciate the feedback. Is the Thermo Tec also good as a sound deadener? It would be nice to accomplish both in one step. I will also have the jute padding and may also go with the mass backing on the carpet kit.

 

I think any of the self-adhesive acoustical mats will help with sound deadening. And all will stop some of the heat but maybe not enough. I used RAAMmat years ago as I got a good deal on it. Seemed to help quite a bit with sound but these old cars are still noisier than modern cars, especially with wind noise.

DC

 

Old door and window seals are primary cause for "wind noise".

 

I have the "Cool It" Product on a 1968 C3 Convertible. If you properly "clean" the surface and apply the mat with a roller it does work and attach nicely. I have it as a inner firewall down to below the seats over the exhaust pipes underneath. I don't know if it does much for noise but it helps keep the heat from coming up as quickly. I have headers and the exhaust system is HOT after a shutdown. The "Cool-it" product was used primarily for heat protection in my application. I use Tube Wraps for heat protection where the Rubber Fuel Line is exposed beneath the Rear. I use the D.E.I. products on several parts of my C3 along with the older Cool-It insulation on my floors and firewall. Since my PS lines are near the headers I have all of them in tube insulators. The cooler the fluids stay the happier my Corvette will be. I was crazy when I rebuilt this engine with 12.25-1 compression but have to live with it for a while longer. The extra compression makes a lot of extra

My Convertible has been exposed to rain and the insulation stays attached so it is still working for me. I used Contact Cement from a spray can to hold it down when I did mine. It has been close to 15 plus years since I put that stuff in my C3 and it is still there. Like anything worthwhile, you have to get the surface prepped properly if you want it to stick.

When done right you shouldn't get the famous "Hot Foot" Syndrome having a 427's headers just a few inches away.