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Looking back at my records, it has been 13-years since plugs were changed. My car seems sluggish, so I pulled#8 plug and found that it was fouled with oil. I decided that it is time to do a complete back yard tune up, plugs, wires, fuel filters, etc. My car has all original shielding in place and complete AIR system.
I have a lift in my garage and thought this was going to be easy, or should I say, easier? I got her up in the air, drained oil, left oil filter off to give me better access from below. Shielding came right off, although I could not get front left out, so I dropped it in the space behind steering box, and I swapped out 8, 6, 7, 5, 3. I was relieved to find other plugs dry.
I spent the next two hours attempting to get to 4, 2, 1. Frankly, I was not positive that I had properly tightened #3 due to limited access issues. I eventually gave up for the night.
I pulled out my Haynes manual and 1969 chassis service manual and other than vague statement, replace the plugs, there was no reference as to how to get those suckers out.
So, I don't want to pull off the exhaust manifolds if I don't have to, but, I don't see another way to get proper access and I am now looking for suggestions.
Access wise, #2,#4, are the easiest to get to. In fact, right side is a piece of cake.
Left side another story. I get #5,#7 from underneath.
#1 needs some negotiating. Particularly with AIR tubes.
#3 imo, is the most difficult. Racket alone wont get on the plug. Any extension doesn't work. I use 2 adapters with a 1/2 drive ratchet (a 1/2 to 1/4, and a 1/4 to 1/2) . Just the right length.
Like most of you, I learned as a kid, how to change plugs leaning over a blanket-covered fender using a ratchet / socket / extension.
Then I bought a C3. Whole different ball game.
I learned that a pair of ramps saves your back and gives you a whole new outlook on plug location. Much like you, using a lift.
I have also learned that with headers anyway, the ratchet / extension is of little help.
I also learned that using a sparkplug socket with a box-end wrench and sometimes a open-end wrenches is the only solution.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 24, 2020 at 10:28 AM.
I have a 72 LT-1 with the smog system still intact and it is a major operation, primarily due to the AIR tubes. I use a combination of methods the previous posters described. It just takes time, patience and a variety of tools. I agree that #1 and 3 are the toughest.
I took a look over the tire and see that there is enough space to poke an extension in there. I need to rotate my tires anyway, so I am going to give this a shot. Now all I need is 24" of extension ☺️ Thanks!
Somehow, I managed to get # 3 three out, and new plug in, just not sure how tight it is. Will try the through the wheel well method to give it a twist.
My first car was a 66 Malibu with a 283 and a transmission that slipped. I can remember going to the department store, buying points and rotor off the spinning tree, changing the plugs, pouting oil down the #%^*, and driving away. The good old days.
Does your ignition still use points and condenser, swapped over to electronic ignition, or does it have the stock GM TI ignition system? If points & condenser, you need to do annual maintenance on them. Points should be removed, cleaned, contacts filed or sanded, and then have dwell reset when installed. The condenser will usually let you know when it starts to fail: occasional ignition 'miss' or sluggish operation are some "tells". I will replace the condenser whenever it runs a bit poorly...or every couple of years. For a few buck$, it is foolish to 'push the envelope' more than two years, IMO.
If you change distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs but still have problems with your electronic ignition, your ignition module may be at the onset of failure. You can clean any connections to the module and grounding points, but if that doesn't fix it, change the module (HEI or aftermarket ignition module). I can offer no advice on the GM TI system, as I have never had one.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
......I usually didnt have any issues with my 327,,,,I've been running angle plug heads for a couple of years, but I feel your pain, i just installed headers and need to install the plugs and wires before the headers....hope the plugs are good for a few years. I remember when we used to have issues we would pull the motor mount through bolt and lift that side of the engine for a little clearance. You just need to be carefull of the clutch linkage, tranny mount and the exhaust, but it is easier that pulling manifolds
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 25, 2020 at 09:58 AM.
One suggestion: Instead of buying the 'recommended' spark plugs, spend just a few bucks more for some NGK iridium plugs. They will last (and stay clean) for 100K miles....so you will NEVER have to change plugs again!!!
I suggest trying a deep offset box end wrench for the plugs with limited access.
You don't have to fight with trying to thread a deep well socket over the entire length of the spark plug.
It's what I use for the plugs that are partially hidden by the header primary tube.
69 L-46 spark plug replacement woes
