What style bolts do you use on headers? When I took the bolts out, some were Allen head, some socket head. They are hooker long tube headers on a 383. The bolts are very close to the tubes. The Allen head seems to give the best room to get a wrench on it. I have seen 12 point bolts on some web pages. When I look at kits I have seem all kinds. Where is a good place to buy the bolts? What material to you need for the heat?

 

Over the years I have used both types.
Currently have bolts with 7/16" heads.
I took a 7/16" combo wrench and cut off the boxed end. This gives sufficient space between the pipes to tighten the nuts.
When I had allen head bolts I used a 6" long socket to tighten them.
I also soak the fiber type gasket in water for about 10 minutes. Start with the center bolts and work towards the end bolts.

 

I have ARP stainless studs in now. It was a struggle to get some of the nuts tightened up. Next time, I'll get the ARP 3/8 to 5/16 studs, that have the next size smaller nut. The Allen bolt solution likely has the most clearance, but you need to thread into the heads each time. The studs also make hanging the pipes a lot easier.

 

Speaking of hanging the pipe on the studs, I am trying to get the headers out. Currently the left side is hung up on the oil dip stick tube. I tried to get the tube out, but it doesn't want to budge. I think the tube is just pressed into the hole. I know it's a snug fit, but dang. I tried grabbing it with vise grips lightly and getting it to twist. That didn't work either. Am I missing something? Should I just keep trying to twist the tube?
Any suggestions on where to get the Allen head bolts?

 

It should twist out. Try Summit Racing for the bolts.

 

you can get stainless 3/8-16 allen head bolts at lowes or home depot. maybe an inch long. half inch will be too short. or google fasteners in your area. there are specialty bolt people everywhere.
or ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-Header-...oAAOSwUeBdsC3p

 

I Was missing one when I bought the car and got stainless SBC header bolts from Pep boys for my long tubes and they look decent

 

Why are header bolts $22 for a set of 12 when a home improvement store charges 30 cents a bolt?

QUALITY !!!!

You want a bolt that has the built in washer for clamping force.
You want a bolt that is the correct length. One inch will never clamp the flange down. Half inch just barely has enough threads with a quarter inch thick flange.
You want a bolt that can handle the torque of a wrench. You really want to snap off a home improvement grade 5 bolt in the head?
You want a bolt that has 12 sides. The whole idea of Intake manifold and header bolts with 12 points is to help you get the right angle with a wrench.
An allen bolt is no better than a hex head bolt. Both have six sides that limits the travel of the wrench.

 

Generally get by with regular 7/16 hex head bolts, Socket head, (some people call them Allen head are for when there is clearance problems.

With the dip stick tube removal, it is best to fit something round, (like a bolt) on where you are clamping the vice grip on to to prevent collapsing the end of the tube.

 

I run the ARP SS header bolts. Very happy with them.

 

This is the only correct answer! You Loctite red the studs in. hang felpro blue steel impregnated header gaskets. Universal ARP header studs from Summit racing. Black oxide studs. high temp red Permatex so that they never come off. I used to safety wire stuff. My vette motors are fully studded. headers, heads, mains, timing cover, dizzy, and water pump.

Dip stick tubes can be a PITA. I've had some success using two people. Get a small 4 inch vice grips. pull the dip stick in and out so that you know it's orientation. The dip stick will hold the tube out from crushing when you put the vice grips on down near the base and block. Have one set of hands working the tube back and forth and the other person pounding up with a big screw driver. Once it moves up get the screw driver under the rounded dimple and keep pounding up and out. Worst case I just took the stick out and destroyed it and bought another tube. Time is money when you are a race car mechanic! :LOL

 

gkull,
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...make/chevrolet
I think these are the ones you are talking about that will fit my 383. Is this correct? I can't see how you put the stud in first. I assume there is some kind of wrench fitting in the end of the stud, but I can't really see it from any of the pictures. I changed my valve covers over to studs and did it properly and I'm really happy with how that turned out.
Some of the reviews say the nut didn't fit because the tube was too big to allow room. When I took the headers off, some things were pretty tight. That was why I was leaning toward the Allen wrench heads. I'm not sure how to tell if they will all fit and I really don't want to loctite studs into the head and find out I can't get the nuts on.
Your picture looks like you may have had to dent the tube a little to get the nut on.

 

Originally Posted by Bikespace View Post
Next time, I'll get the ARP 3/8 to 5/16 studs, that have the next size smaller nut. The studs also make hanging the pipes a lot easier.
This is the only correct answer! You Loctite red the studs in. hang felpro blue steel impregnated header gaskets. Universal ARP header studs from Summit racing. Black oxide studs. high temp red Permatex so that they never come off.

To install studs: You double nut them. run two nuts down a bit and tighten them against each other with two wrenches. Then you Loctite the end and run them in and let it dry.

They make stud sockets that grab the threads if you are careful. But when you use air tools to R&R remove and replace...… you invariably ruin and chew up a few threads. not a big deal on a race car because you buy multiple sets of everything

 

Rob,
Did you read the reviews? Mounting nut is too large to clear some header tubes.

Takes a 7/16 wrench or socket. Header bolts are usually 3/8.

 

Headsup, forgive me, but I am a little confused by your question. I read some of the reviews and people couldn't get wrenches on the nuts. I look at gkull's picture and the left side of the tube looks scrapped or damaged in some way like he had trouble getting a wrench in there. That was the reason I'm asking these questions. I'm trying to "PLAN AHEA" as the picture shows. This is my first car I've really been able to do things like this to, so I'm trying to learn and do things right. I was planning to take the headers out and re-finish them. Right now I have 2 issues. 1. I can't get the oil dipstick out and the header won't get out without taking the tube out. 2. I don't think I can get the header out without taking the steering gear off. I just put that on a couple weeks ago while rebuilding the front suspension and I really don't want to take it off again. I would like to do the studs, but if the nuts have issues with clearance at the tube, I'm no better off than I am right now with different bolts. I definitely understand your point about 30 cent grade 5 bolts. Not going down that path. I see a few different bolt options, but trying to figure out which one to do. Not being able to get the headers out is really pissing me off right now.
I've learned a ton in the last couple months from guys here. I'm hoping to learn a lot more.
As I read your post again, maybe you are saying they should not be using a 7/16 wrench, meaning they have the wrong bolts or nuts anyway, so their review is bogus. If that is the case, I probably just need to get the 12 point bolts with the 3/8 head and there shouldn't be an issue. I can't remember for sure, but I think the bolts I took out needed a 7/16 socket, but I'm not 100% sure. I know they were 6 point and not 12 point. I think Pete sometimes got in a hurry and just used whatever he had.

 

I'm not saying that these are absolutely the correct studs to buy, and they cost twice what the stainless 3/8 studs cost that are in my car now, but here are some ARP 3/8 shank (into the heads) 5/16 stud (with a smaller nut), similar to what @gkull shows above. This would have saved me some grief with my headers.

https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-1401/10002/-1

 

That is the correct set

5/16th is the smallest nuts. Mine have the larger diameter 1 3/4th primary tubes. Some of them are not dimpled right for clearance and I get in a hurry sometimes having to swap in my spare motor to continue on with a racing weekend. You can get pretty good at changing motors in the pits when you have done it for 30 years

 

Dang. Not sure I want to be swapping a motor in the pits during a race day. That seems like way too much work.

 

Rob,
Don't get me wrong, the header stud kits are wonderful. But are they needed for a daily driver? Not really.
Those kits are for guys pulling their headers, cyl heads every other weekend. How often do you plan on removing your headers? Realistically?
The header studs are nice to line-up the gasket and flange. But using bolts is not that hard anyway. I have removed my headers twice in 10 yrs. Just takes an extra minute to get the bolts started.

Here is another way some people take advantage of studs w/o troubles of nut interference. Install studs in the outward holes only. Use bolts on the inboard holes.
That's what the studs are for, lining up the holes, so just use two per head. They can be had from Summit in the "Fastener" category, ARP, black oxide or S.S.

Header removal, drivers side can be a nightmare. Passenger side just about falls to the floor by itself. Hate to see you mess with that Oil Dipstick Tube. Usually causes more grief. IDK, figure out something else. From past experience, the higher the car is off the ground the more you can finagle the header to clear.
And then there is always the trick of tilting the engine. A lot more work with engine mounts, trans mount, fan shroud, etc.
Good Luck

 

If you have aluminum heads they are a must. Drivers side headers go in from top. Passenger side from the bottom