I'm Back! It's Time...
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
I did a little Google research today. Tried optispark repair. Every single thing I found you were repairing the optispark by taking it off and throwing it away and putting something else on instead or another new optispark. Pretty resourceful bunch here. Somebody would have found a way to take it apart and put a $35 part in it and put it back together running if it was doable. I don't think it is.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 283
From: New York
I did a little Google research today. Tried optispark repair. Every single thing I found you were repairing the optispark by taking it off and throwing it away and putting something else on instead or another new optispark. Pretty resourceful bunch here. Somebody would have found a way to take it apart and put a $35 part in it and put it back together running if it was doable. I don't think it is.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
American Auto Wire just came out with a new C3 complete wiring harness for restomods.
New blade type fuses and upgraded for high amp alternators and other nice features.
It will plug into all your oem equipment or it can be ordered to use with other upgraded gauges etc.
I just received mine and it is a very nice harness.
For the electric headlight conversion, p.m. Richard454 for his “complete” conversion kit.
I recently purchased his kit and it is top quality and dealing with Richard was great.
It is the best one offered on the market.
New blade type fuses and upgraded for high amp alternators and other nice features.
It will plug into all your oem equipment or it can be ordered to use with other upgraded gauges etc.
I just received mine and it is a very nice harness.
For the electric headlight conversion, p.m. Richard454 for his “complete” conversion kit.
I recently purchased his kit and it is top quality and dealing with Richard was great.
It is the best one offered on the market.
I looked up this kit, and agree it appears to be top notch, but twice the cost of painless? Not sure it's worth the extra 620 bucks...
1968-1976 Corvette Classic Update Kit
$1,199.00
PART #:
510717
https://www.americanautowire.com/sho...sic-update-kit
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
American Auto Wire just came out with a new C3 complete wiring harness for restomods.
New blade type fuses and upgraded for high amp alternators and other nice features.
It will plug into all your oem equipment or it can be ordered to use with other upgraded gauges etc.
I just received mine and it is a very nice harness.
For the electric headlight conversion, p.m. Richard454 for his “complete” conversion kit.
I recently purchased his kit and it is top quality and dealing with Richard was great.
It is the best one offered on the market.
New blade type fuses and upgraded for high amp alternators and other nice features.
It will plug into all your oem equipment or it can be ordered to use with other upgraded gauges etc.
I just received mine and it is a very nice harness.
For the electric headlight conversion, p.m. Richard454 for his “complete” conversion kit.
I recently purchased his kit and it is top quality and dealing with Richard was great.
It is the best one offered on the market.
Reviving this thread, this time it's for real! I have a shop lined up to take on the car, and the parts are arriving with the harness the first to arrive...
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 4
From: Suffield CT
Hi, did not want to keep hi-jacking the other thread. I forgot about the fuel pressure so yeah hunting down a fuel cell with in-tank pump is a must. Since you went 5-speed did you bring along the 97 PCM ? My 96 Imp SS was 4L60E and the PCM did talk to the tranny not sure it is the same in a stick shift ?
I'll try go back and read to catch up on the build progress.
Later,
-ALF
I'll try go back and read to catch up on the build progress.
Later,
-ALF
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
Hi, did not want to keep hi-jacking the other thread. I forgot about the fuel pressure so yeah hunting down a fuel cell with in-tank pump is a must. Since you went 5-speed did you bring along the 97 PCM ? My 96 Imp SS was 4L60E and the PCM did talk to the tranny not sure it is the same in a stick shift ?
I'll try go back and read to catch up on the build progress.
Later,
-ALF
I'll try go back and read to catch up on the build progress.
Later,
-ALF
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Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 4
From: Suffield CT
I am using the a factory PCM, at the time there was no ODB2 harness kit available so I had to convert the car to ODB1. I had originally used MadZ28 for my first tune after installing the hotcam valvetrain with good success so I swapped that PCM with a tuned ODB1 PCM. There are quirks that I vaguely remember such as reverse lockout and alarm/security override with may have been part of the initial startup problems. Either way it's now in the hands of a professional, fingers crossed...
alarm/security override
we used to call it VATS, and yes car won't run, but it will still crank, and start for like 2 seconds, sounds like you couldn't even get that far....?
Hard to find shops willing to work on 90's stuff especially with 3-4 yr only run of the LT1, so hope you already know this place or keeping a close eye on things.
The rabbit hole can get deep quick.
were you on here already back in the day?
https://www.ls1lt1.com/
tons of info here too on LT1 swaps/ obd1 to obd2/ etc....
https://www.impalassforum.com/
i mail order tuned with this guy if you need one more option https://lt1swap.com/programming.htm
Later,
-ALF
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,759
Likes: 1,647
From: Fairfax Virginia
Hello again Stumpdiesel!
I apologize for taking so long to answer your questions. The reason I went to an internal fuel pump was simple. NOISE The in-tank fuel pump and regulator keep me from needing a return lines for my EFI system.
The best tool I know of for working on the electrical side of our Corvettes is a tool called a Power Probe. This tool allows you to put either 12 volts or ground at the tip simply by rolling a rocker switch. I tested my fuel pump at the pump first, It ran. I then powered the Fuel Pump relay and it worked. Finally I found a bad voltage drop that was the cause. I fixed it and the problem was gone forever.
The LT1 engine and it OPTIonal ignition system would not have been my first choice for a transplant engine. I don't care for the design work where they put the distributor under the water pump.
By the way, Ether spray will ignite in an engine with NO Ignition and/or spark. It should not be used for testing the spark. Why do you think that we use it in diesel engines?
I apologize for taking so long to answer your questions. The reason I went to an internal fuel pump was simple. NOISE The in-tank fuel pump and regulator keep me from needing a return lines for my EFI system.
The best tool I know of for working on the electrical side of our Corvettes is a tool called a Power Probe. This tool allows you to put either 12 volts or ground at the tip simply by rolling a rocker switch. I tested my fuel pump at the pump first, It ran. I then powered the Fuel Pump relay and it worked. Finally I found a bad voltage drop that was the cause. I fixed it and the problem was gone forever.
The LT1 engine and it OPTIonal ignition system would not have been my first choice for a transplant engine. I don't care for the design work where they put the distributor under the water pump.
By the way, Ether spray will ignite in an engine with NO Ignition and/or spark. It should not be used for testing the spark. Why do you think that we use it in diesel engines?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
I was able to find my original tune order, and it looks like all the non essentials were disabled:
Options
-------
Powertune Selected.
Disable Skip Shift.
Disable EGR.
Disable AIR.
Disable CCP codes.
Disable VATS.
Project Update - pics in my album:
All underside work has been completed:
Brakes: New calipers, lines & pads, rotors shaved
Fuel: New tank w/ internal pump and lines installed
Suspension: All bushings replaced
Rear: half shafts redone & rear serviced
Exhaust: Fully installed
Remaining work:
* Install new harness
*Troubleshoot no spark/injector firing issues for motor to run
*Suspension setup, alignment and tune
*Install the interior and finally drive it!!!
Options
-------
Powertune Selected.
Disable Skip Shift.
Disable EGR.
Disable AIR.
Disable CCP codes.
Disable VATS.
Project Update - pics in my album:
All underside work has been completed:
Brakes: New calipers, lines & pads, rotors shaved
Fuel: New tank w/ internal pump and lines installed
Suspension: All bushings replaced
Rear: half shafts redone & rear serviced
Exhaust: Fully installed
Remaining work:
* Install new harness
*Troubleshoot no spark/injector firing issues for motor to run
*Suspension setup, alignment and tune
*Install the interior and finally drive it!!!