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House, marriage, kid, life got in the way of finishing my 70 LT1 restomod.
Well between mid life crisis, world craziness, and finally some discretionary funds, it's time to get back into this build!
To recap:
70 vette frame off, completely rebuilt. VBP 1G suspension kit & offset trailing arms, steeroids, T5 with hydraulic clutch, and a rebuilt ODB1 LT1 with hotcam valvetrain and painless harness.
What do I need?
Replace the rest of the original wiring, considering a painless replacement, is this what I should be using? https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10413
I fear my external Aeromotive A1000 is burned out, and if it's right for this setup? The cost to replace is high and I read internal tank pumps are preferred?
Electric conversion of the headlights and wiper door. I have the killer lights instructions from years ago, but now see full kits however they are expensive! Are they worth it?
After sorting out these 2 items comes help figuring why I was never able to get the LT1 to turn over, always suspected no spark but have no diagnostic tools or experience to troubleshoot. I'm looking locally for help with this as a shop may be 100 buck if they figure it out in an hour, or 1K...
Finally, once it runs, I can have my exhaust installed and gladly pay a pro to properly set up the suspension, get my interior installed and actually drive it!
Any feedback on the 2 "What do I need" questions is greatly appreciated...
Not certain about a lot of your questions. However, I will address the fuel pump. I'll say this about that. In tank pumps with a proper baffle system is what ALL the O.E.M.'s use. Quieter, run cooler, and above all, electric fuel pumps are pushers not pullers. A number of solutions as to how to put a intank pump in your existing tank. And or complete EFI ready tanks available.
I converted my 77 to EFI, made up my own baffle and mounting. Easy done if you do a bit of homework. And mine was very inexpensive.
Hello. Welcome back. I joined after you left. Anyway, Aeromotive a1000 that's at 90 PSI pump? This is a mid 90s LT1? It's supposed to run on about 41 PSI. Fuel line. Are you trying to use the OE steel fuel line? It was designed to pass fuel under slight negative pressure. The pump at the front sucking the fuel through that line. That line is 50 years old. I feel nobody should try to put 30 to 90 PSI of fuel pressure inside that fifty-year-old Steel line. Stress cracks, vibration, rust pits. And you're spraying hot fuel all over your exhaust system and the engine is still running because you have plenty of fuel pressure to feed the engine and still spray fuel all over your exhaust. Use that line is the return. Run a new line that's designed for EFI pressure.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 5, 2020 at 07:14 AM.
Won't start? Diagnostic tools. First is a can of starting fluid. If it pops with starting fluid you have spark. If you suspect Spark, unplug the coil wire and hand it to your wife. Crank the motor. Is she really pissed off? You have spark.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Look at Lectric Limited’s harnesses, they are plug and play with original plugs. The electric headlight doors don’t seem worth the price unless you build your own from junkyard parts.
Hello. Welcome back. I joined after you left. Anyway, Aeromotive a1000 that's at 90 PSI pump? This is a mid 90s LT1? It's supposed to run on about 41 PSI. Fuel line. Are you trying to use the OE steel fuel line? It was designed to pass fuel under slight negative pressure. The pump at the front sucking the fuel through that line. That line is 50 years old. I feel nobody should try to put 30 to 90 PSI of fuel pressure inside that fifty-year-old Steel line. Stress cracks, vibration, rust pits. And you're spraying hot fuel all over your exhaust system and the engine is still running because you have plenty of fuel pressure to feed the engine and still spray fuel all over your exhaust. Use that line is the return. Run a new line that's designed for EFI pressure.
Thanks for the input.
It is a 90's LT1, and the pump is overkill as, at the time had big hopes for adding a power booster. Now I just want it to be a running car hehe.
Everything under the car is new, including braided fuel lines both feed and return with AN fittings, a pic of my setup is below. Aeromotive makes a pump controller which could help but that just more $$$.
I think I'll look into in pump options....
Last edited by Stumpdeisel; Jun 5, 2020 at 10:15 AM.
Not certain about a lot of your questions. However, I will address the fuel pump. I'll say this about that. In tank pumps with a proper baffle system is what ALL the O.E.M.'s use. Quieter, run cooler, and above all, electric fuel pumps are pushers not pullers. A number of solutions as to how to put a intank pump in your existing tank. And or complete EFI ready tanks available.
I converted my 77 to EFI, made up my own baffle and mounting. Easy done if you do a bit of homework. And mine was very inexpensive.
Look at Lectric Limited’s harnesses, they are plug and play with original plugs. The electric headlight doors don’t seem worth the price unless you build your own from junkyard parts.
Thanks, I'll take a look at Lectric limited. I do like the painless using new fuses, and the harness includes wiring for lighting as well as 2 extra circuits and am curious to see the comparison.
And I agree on the headlight conversion kit cost, absolute sticker shock! Killer light instructions from years ago detail the boneyard build, I'll definitely stick with that unless someone shows a reasonable kit offer I haven't seen yet...
Won't start? Diagnostic tools. First is a can of starting fluid. If it pops with starting fluid you have spark. If you suspect Spark, unplug the coil wire and hand it to your wife. Crank the motor. Is she really pissed off? You have spark.
LMAO!!!
I should clarify, I know there's no spark, I pulled wire and plug. I just don't know why. Could be the original crappy wiring is giving the wrong power feed to the CPU, or one of the sensors is not sending the CPU the correct signal. Or something else...
For the in-tank solution- look at the Holly hydramat. They have several different sizes-don't know how did the sump- but fitting the hydramat there would be ideal.
I did the aeromotive stealth set-up and was DISAPPOINTED in it- the aerospace foam dissolved in just regular pump gas. The guys at the factory admitted it has happened...
As far as wiper-headlights-
I have a PDF put together and can send re: doing a DIY Miata/Probe motors - also have a PDF for the bracket sizes. email me- richard454 at comcast dot net
The problem with the killer lights is it requires a module that is tough to find and expensive. Miata/Probe can be done with a simple Bosh SPDT relay- no external electrics required
For the wiper door- I used a rear wiper off a SUV-
I just finished the installation of a Holley Sniper Stealth EFI system on my 1968 C3 and I was very happy to learn that Holley offers a replacement fuel level sending unit that has the fuel pump (Walbro 255) and a fuel regulator on the same part along with a new Fuel level sending unit. The one piece makes your Corvette ready for EFI systems. The whole part was $350 or so but included a piece of the new Hydra-Mat from Holley and the Fuel Pump and fuel level sending unit. It took me about 20 minutes to swap out the parts and my fuel system was done.
The Hydra-mat is amazing material that will pull fuel from anywhere in the tank. It by itself is very expensive so getting a small piece was really nice of Holley. I had planned on getting a new EFI fuel tank but saved a lot of money not having to do this. On my Corvette the gas level sending unit was installed from the bottom of the tank. I use a bit of grease to hold the O-ring in place and re-installed it.
By the way, the Aeromotive Electronic Fuel Pump Controller is a great device but a bit too expensive for most. I have one from the electric fuel pump system I was using before. My Holley Sniper does the priming like the C4's do and will not allow the use of the Aeromotive controller. The Aeromotive Controller uses "Pulse Width Modulation" to control the speeds of the fuel pump. Holley told me that PWM will not work with the Walbro for very long as the Walbro was not designed for this type of control system. I would have to ask Walbro before I took Holley's word at this.
The Aeromotive controller is very small and very compact. I loved the way it worked on my Corvette. The new system is so quiet that you don't hear the pump running unless it is priming before startup.
I still have the Aeromotive Billet Electric Fuel Pump Controller Part #: 16306 in perfect condition with less than 2 hours of use on it. It would probably work with your Aeromotive Electric Fuel Pumps I would imagine. A quick call to Aeromotive would answer that question. I used it on my 1968 C3 with its 427 with an electric fuel pump in place of the original engine mounted fuel pump. The newer system is so quiet you get spoiled fast with the in-tank fuel pump!
If you are running a non-vented opti do yourself a favor and get a vented MSD one NOW! The non-vented randomly die no warning and leave you stuck. I had a few LT1s and did a few swaps and never fails. Also if you have spark at coil then the pancake is dead.
I just finished the installation of a Holley Sniper Stealth EFI system on my 1968 C3 and I was very happy to learn that Holley offers a replacement fuel level sending unit that has the fuel pump (Walbro 255) and a fuel regulator on the same part along with a new Fuel level sending unit. The one piece makes your Corvette ready for EFI systems. The whole part was $350 or so but included a piece of the new Hydra-Mat from Holley and the Fuel Pump and fuel level sending unit. It took me about 20 minutes to swap out the parts and my fuel system was done.
The Hydra-mat is amazing material that will pull fuel from anywhere in the tank. It by itself is very expensive so getting a small piece was really nice of Holley. I had planned on getting a new EFI fuel tank but saved a lot of money not having to do this. On my Corvette the gas level sending unit was installed from the bottom of the tank. I use a bit of grease to hold the O-ring in place and re-installed it.
By the way, the Aeromotive Electronic Fuel Pump Controller is a great device but a bit too expensive for most. I have one from the electric fuel pump system I was using before. My Holley Sniper does the priming like the C4's do and will not allow the use of the Aeromotive controller. The Aeromotive Controller uses "Pulse Width Modulation" to control the speeds of the fuel pump. Holley told me that PWM will not work with the Walbro for very long as the Walbro was not designed for this type of control system. I would have to ask Walbro before I took Holley's word at this.
The Aeromotive controller is very small and very compact. I loved the way it worked on my Corvette. The new system is so quiet that you don't hear the pump running unless it is priming before startup.
I still have the Aeromotive Billet Electric Fuel Pump Controller Part #: 16306 in perfect condition with less than 2 hours of use on it. It would probably work with your Aeromotive Electric Fuel Pumps I would imagine. A quick call to Aeromotive would answer that question. I used it on my 1968 C3 with its 427 with an electric fuel pump in place of the original engine mounted fuel pump. The newer system is so quiet you get spoiled fast with the in-tank fuel pump!
Great feedback ctmccloskey, thanks!
That's 2 for 2 suggesting a Holley solution.
2 questions: Why did you go from the Aeromotive setup to in-tank? Also, it sounds like you may be willing to sell the controller? If so PM me your asking price.
Finally, I need to figure out the best way to test my pump, any suggestions? I should flush my tank out before putting fresh gas in it, and other than just trying it in the car I could un-install it. If it's bad, are they repairable?
If you are running a non-vented opti do yourself a favor and get a vented MSD one NOW! The non-vented randomly die no warning and leave you stuck. I had a few LT1s and did a few swaps and never fails. Also if you have spark at coil then the pancake is dead.
A fellow NY'er! I'm in Nassau county LI, Hope you and your family have been and remain safe...
Can I get away with just the vented cap, or do/should I spring for the entire distributor? It's almost an extra 400 bucks...
Won't start? Diagnostic tools. First is a can of starting fluid. If it pops with starting fluid you have spark. If you suspect Spark, unplug the coil wire and hand it to your wife. Crank the motor. Is she really pissed off? You have spark.
Left off the second part.... sleep on the couch.
Too funny!
A fellow NY'er! I'm in Nassau county LI, Hope you and your family have been and remain safe...
Can I get away with just the vented cap, or do/should I spring for the entire distributor? It's almost an extra 400 bucks...
If your LT1 is a 1995-96 with the pin drive Opti you already have the vented cap. If yours is a 92-94 with the spline drive you have the non-vented cap and I would highly recommend spending the money on the MSD distributor.
American Auto Wire just came out with a new C3 complete wiring harness for restomods.
New blade type fuses and upgraded for high amp alternators and other nice features.
It will plug into all your oem equipment or it can be ordered to use with other upgraded gauges etc.
I just received mine and it is a very nice harness.
For the electric headlight conversion, p.m. Richard454 for his “complete” conversion kit.
I recently purchased his kit and it is top quality and dealing with Richard was great.
It is the best one offered on the market.
A fellow NY'er! I'm in Nassau county LI, Hope you and your family have been and remain safe...
Can I get away with just the vented cap, or do/should I spring for the entire distributor? It's almost an extra 400 bucks...
Thanks and same to you. What Crim's said is correct mostly, vettes got it a year later for the vented but doesnt matter. If it's not spend the $400...I've been stranded a few times. Car is fine drive 2 hours park, return to leave and it's DOA. Also I'm not a fan of electric water pumps but on an lt1 makes sense. When it's starting to go bad it weeps on you guessed it the opti. And when you change the pump you will give the opti a bath....no way around it. With electric you seal the hole and you can service the pump without messing with opti.... Ask me how I know
I'm Back! It's Time...
