76 central gauge cluster removale
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 8
From: Bastrop Texas
76 central gauge cluster removale
I need advise on how to remove the central gauge cluster on my 1976. Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated. I plan to replace the temperature guage.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
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From: Cool Northern Michigan
Get a handful of replacement dash light bulbs. While yer at it.
Get one of those magnet parts bowls from Froubor Hate instead of throwing all those little screws on the carpet.
I believe the side panels of the tunnel had to come off? Don't remember. Not too bad a job except the gauge panel gave me trouble fitting back in the shifter panel.
I replaced the 40+ yr old plexiglass also. It was yellowed & cracked.
Get one of those magnet parts bowls from Froubor Hate instead of throwing all those little screws on the carpet.
I believe the side panels of the tunnel had to come off? Don't remember. Not too bad a job except the gauge panel gave me trouble fitting back in the shifter panel.
I replaced the 40+ yr old plexiglass also. It was yellowed & cracked.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
Take a piece of cardboard. Draw a rough sketch of the console and the gauge cluster. Every screw you take out, screw it into the sketch in the same spot it came from. Also, virtually everything in the interior is easier when there's no seats in the interior. You pretty much have to start with the emergency brake console working for words to get to that cluster its cruise down into the front of the shifter console.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 5, 2020 at 09:32 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Remove the trim screws from the bezel.
Remove the forward trim pieces on the console.
Remove passengers dash pad.
Loosen the two hidden nuts under the console at the base of the cluster.
That should allow you enough wiggle room to disconnect the cluster wiring.
Ease out the cluster and the radio.
Remove the forward trim pieces on the console.
Remove passengers dash pad.
Loosen the two hidden nuts under the console at the base of the cluster.
That should allow you enough wiggle room to disconnect the cluster wiring.
Ease out the cluster and the radio.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
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From: Bastrop Texas
Easy Mike, when you state remove the passengers dash pad are you referring to the section with the storage pouch, and am I correct to assume one needs to remove the console to be able to loosen the two hidden nuts you reference? Also, does the washer **** just pull off, and it looks like one just uses the small slot screw in the clock adjuster **** to remove it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
...and am I correct to assume one needs to remove the console to be able to loosen the two hidden nuts you reference?...
...Also, does the washer **** just pull off...
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
This is the proverbial "Nest of Snakes"! 
The primary thing you need to know and deal with are the two nuts on the studs on bottom edge of the pot-metal gauge cluster. They sit inside/under the U-shaped front brace for the trans tunnel and are "trapped" in there. Very difficult to get loose and even more difficult to remove without dropping them SOMEWHERE under the tunnel. And, if you pull with too much force on those studs, they will easily snap off.
It is best to release and then pull backward and up on the e-brake housing to get clearance from the rear of the trans tunnel. Then you can loosen the front retaining screws on the tunnel and pull it back a bit (after removing the 4 little screws at the sides of the gauge bezel and the upper screws on bezel and/or A/C upper vent housing).
My suggestion is that you DO NOT replace the rear retaining bolt on the e-brake housing and you start the nuts on those lower bezel studs before you re-assemble. Then only finger tighten those nuts. The other bezel screws, the properly positioned trans tunnel, and the 2 nuts on the front shafts of the radio will retain all very well without tightening those stud screws further.
The primary thing you need to know and deal with are the two nuts on the studs on bottom edge of the pot-metal gauge cluster. They sit inside/under the U-shaped front brace for the trans tunnel and are "trapped" in there. Very difficult to get loose and even more difficult to remove without dropping them SOMEWHERE under the tunnel. And, if you pull with too much force on those studs, they will easily snap off.It is best to release and then pull backward and up on the e-brake housing to get clearance from the rear of the trans tunnel. Then you can loosen the front retaining screws on the tunnel and pull it back a bit (after removing the 4 little screws at the sides of the gauge bezel and the upper screws on bezel and/or A/C upper vent housing).
My suggestion is that you DO NOT replace the rear retaining bolt on the e-brake housing and you start the nuts on those lower bezel studs before you re-assemble. Then only finger tighten those nuts. The other bezel screws, the properly positioned trans tunnel, and the 2 nuts on the front shafts of the radio will retain all very well without tightening those stud screws further.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 5, 2020 at 10:52 PM.
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From: SW Florida.
this shows the two studs hanging down and the u-shaped piece that screws to the tunnel. They are 10-24. Most likely 3/8 head. But I think life is much easier if you take the u-shaped piece off the tunnel with the gauge cluster attached to it. And then there's a picture of the back with your temp gauge plug. I would remove the seats and the consoles and the console trim and the right dash pad. And you got room to get in there easily and you can clean up the rug and give everything a bath as you put it back in.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 6, 2020 at 08:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 8
From: Bastrop Texas
derekderek, Man, thanks for the pictures. That old saying that a picture is worth a thousand words is certainly true in this case. It is great to see how those two studs are located, and how difficult it is to get to the nuts. I mean, what were those GM engineers thinking......certainly not about removing the cluster
!!
!!
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
Click on the other post hit edit and then hit delete and then hit delete this posting. Can probably get rid of the whole thread. Meantime on this one go to Post 6. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tch-bezel.html. and it looks like the center pin on the temp gauge is the ground for the entire cluster.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 6, 2020 at 10:45 AM.