Cant help but wonder for an occasional driver if it could truly lower fuel temps and combat the problems with Ethanol gas.

Once its shut off of course everything gets hot but still..waste of time or? Half tempted

 

For those of us (including me) that did not have a clue what this is..... https://www.moroso.com/super-cool-ca...ittings-65127/

 

I found that insulating the fuel lines makes a difference and keeps the fuel a bit cooler. Cool Cans are typically used by drag racers in the quest for a couple more horsepower. I don't think I have seen one used in a street driven only car. Getting cooler air into the combustion chamber also helps a good deal. I have a functional L88 Hood on my 1968 C3 and it supplies ambient temperature air into the combustion chamber preventing detonation.

My cooling system is separate independent system and allows the fans to run for several minutes after shutdown to decrease my under hood temperatures and this helps prevent boiling of the fuel. I use a Deep cycle battery in place of the normal starting battery and this tolerates the electric fans running for a few minutes after shutdown better than a plain battery.

Inside the engine compartment I use insulation sleeve and the I cover that with a fire protection sheath so there are two layers of insulation on my fuel lines anywhere inside the engine bay. From the fuel tank forward I put a single layer insulation over the hose to keep it from getting heated up by the hot roads or proximity to exhaust pipes.

The biggest problem I have with this oxygenated fuel is that my old 2 stroke Motorcycle's carburetors and intakes don't get warm enough and little ***** of paraffin form and accumulate in my carburetors float bowls. I never saw that before they started adding ethanol. Those little pieces of paraffin clog up my main jets and stall the engine. The paraffin ***** form downstream of my fuel filters and they are driving me crazy... In this case I would need a "Hot Can" versus the "Cool Can".

 

I used one on my 455 gto when I drag raced in the hot florida sun and it did work. Also I have a carbed 84 c4 that would have fuel perc after sitting for awhile so I would open the hood about 4" and it would cool down fairly quick. Later I installed a cowl induction hood scoop that is open on the front and back and that cured my fuel perc problem . I run a 1/2" phenolic spacer under the carb which helps too.

 

Pull into the drive-in Lane for food and you get an extra cup with ice and get out and dump it into the cool fuel can.

 

I'm running FI with a return system. The car I got the motor out of was $100K MSRP- and it had a fuel cooler- so I thought it might not be a bad idea...
I'm using it on the return side- that's how the factory did it.

BTW Porsche has for 30+ years been using the AC system to cool the fuel lines- no ice required!!!





Porsche 996/997

 

I ran them on drag cars and used it on a couple street cars a friend had a supply of dry ice got shipping food on airlines and that stuff worked good except one race there must have been some water in the race gas and the car nosed over all I could think was it froze a small prestriction. Regular ice couldn't get that cold.
You can put rock salt on the ice to get it colder for a race.it may not do much for you but it's fun to experiment.

 

Does Porche use the A/C to dry the onboard air compressor?

 

The cool can fuel cooler idea is for performance increases from lowering the temperature of the air fuel charge which increases the amount of fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. It won’t help with the Fuel boiling or evaporating from a hot carb. To Combat that issue the wood or phenolic spacers is your best bet along with opening the hood. I use a 1inch spacer and my boiling issue went away.

An addition I watched the engine masters episode that covered the hp gain from a cool can type cooling system so I went with a fuel cooler. My fuel lines are in the stock location that runs next to my side exhaust so I thought it might be a good idea to run a fuel cooler. It’s in my nose just in front of the radiator so it cools tHe fuel before it goes into the carb. I too run an L88 with the CAI.. I keep missing all the local Dyno events so I haven’t gotten an actual hp number......

 

Is this what I think it is?




Jebby

 

My view on Cool Cans is that a fella isn't going to put ice in it all of the time, it is about another 6 feet of line to push though, and where the hell you going to mount it?
The fuel log cooler is a great idea.......but most of the problem is at or near the bowl......it is like the Trans cooler thread where I said what is the point of cooling the fluid first if you are going to push it though heat?
Best thing to do in my opinion is insulate things.....or run a return system. I run a phenolic carb and fuel pump spacer, and braided line on my own car, as well as cool water temps (180 F) and never have a problem.

Jebby

 

Good point. I was hoping the fuel was moving fast enough not to reheat. I keep my lines away from anything hot but your point is well taken. I think I'll look at some insulation from the cooler to the carb

 

Dynos are a poor way to evaluate things like cool cans and even different days at the track can give vastly different results. I run an air gap intake and a phenelic spacer and I have no issues.. but your right a cool can is not for stopping fuel boiling.

 

Well, if you insulate it after the cooler then you have solved the re-heat problem

Jebby

 

Jamb in a 502. You will use fuel so fast it won't have a chance to get warm.

 

sleeves are on there way, Velcro closure so I don’t have to remove everything...the week point is the Velcro but it’s rated to 325F, so no worries there

 

In the late 60s I ran a 58 Biscayne in NHRA F/MP, 337 with tunnel ram, dual Hollys, Engle roller, the full load. I used a cool can with a coil of copper line and dry ice. I've never seen anyone use one the street. I suppose it would be useful if you are street racing.

 

Probably , yes it would.I guess if you had the money you could use a air conditioning pump and coil and create a small box that would replicate a cool can without the ice. You would just need enough coils to cool the fuel if it was flowing really fast ... more hp is always a good thing

 

always thought the AC idea was cool didnt know porsche was doing it...but I have no ac

If the fuel was that much cooler would that warrant specific tuning?
My fuel lines are 1/2" stainless and really dont get hot id think it miiiight run a tad better.
Once the engines shut down all bets are off but may make the difference between good restarts and bad if the fuel never got to the boiling point where its evaporating, pushing its way past needle and seat orings etc.
Thoughts? Half serious about doing it as it rarely gets driven so every bit helps.

Do have a 1" phenolic spacer but think adding a Holley heat shield would really improve things. Been toying with the idea of heat vents on the hood etc just for the sake of experimentation. No hood id do in a hot second but dont feel like getting pulled over

 

Again, cool cans a fuel cooling only helps for driving and HP increases, it won't help us with boiling after the motor shuts off. The heat radiating up from the block screws us. But like you said. The holley heat shield may help.
And yes if you cooled the fuel enough that you got more fuel into your cylinders you would have to tune for it unless you where running an EFI like a Holley sniper or Atomic system. That's where you want an O2 sensor hard wired